Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold
This is hardly the first open-worked version of the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin, but it is my favorite one so far. The perfection is in the white gold that “AP” used for the watch’s exterior, the internal and external finishing, and the choice of colors. The way the watch combines significant weight with an airy appearance also creates a special sensation. I got the chance to go hands-on with an exclusive watch that’s limited by production but takes its place in AP’s regular Royal Oak collection nonetheless.
When I write “regular Royal Oak collection,” I’m referring to the 140 references that make up the current non-special-edition lineup. And there’s hardly anything “regular” in it. That word doesn’t suit a 44mm white ceramic “RO” Grande Complication, now, does it? And it also doesn’t apply to the newest version of the “Jumbo,” the skeletonized reference 16204BC. I truly believe that this Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked is the nicest iteration of the concept so far. Two years ago, AP celebrated the RO’s 50th anniversary with the launch of several special models, including the 16204ST. That was a steel, skeletonized version of the 16202, the successor to the legendary 15202. Yes, the open-worked watch stayed true to its origins, but with its pale gray movement on full-frontal display and pink gold hands turning right above it, it didn’t pack much of a punch. The punch came later.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked: the power of gray
In pink gold (16204OR) or yellow gold (16204BA), the skeletonized version of the “Jumbo” does pack a punch — a knockout, even. But the combination of colored precious metal and a skeletonized movement on display is a bit much for my taste. The richness of a colored gold alloy kind of overpowers the impressive intricacy of an open-worked movement. White gold is way more introverted. By using that understated precious metal and pairing it with a movement that underwent some aesthetic changes, AP created the best version of the skeletonized “Jumbo.”
It’s in the darkness that AP found inspiration. Well, maybe not, but the dark gray movement and a black inner bezel give the watch more presence, clarity, and visual stability. It looks focused. Yes, a skeletonized movement is a bit like a maze. When done in a light color, it also looks a bit undefined. The result is a blurry appearance overall. However, this white gold case and bracelet are now a backdrop for a well-articulated, skeletonized movement with visual boundaries thanks to the black outer ring. The white gold hands are on theme with the case, and because of the contrasting movement below, they are also practical.
Caliber 7121 in its most modern look
The open-worked caliber 7124 started life together with the caliber 7121, the movement that beats inside the closed-dial versions of the “Jumbo.” The movements were developed together, and the result in the case of the 7124 is an automatic, 211-part caliber with 29.6 × 2.7mm dimensions. This 4Hz caliber has a 57-hour power reserve and a thin rotor that spins bidirectionally on ball bearings, and it only displays the hours and minutes.
It’s the use of dark gray that gives this movement such a strong contemporary and perhaps even industrial look. But it’s the manual finishing that makes the caliber stand out. It’s so refined, so subtle, and so mesmerizing and hypnotic because of the finishing of even the tiniest part. There are no fewer than 324 (!) hand-polished angles inside the movement. From a distance of 30 centimeters, the watch looks awesome, but from three centimeters away, it is truly jaw-dropping.
How is the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked on the wrist?
The “Jumbo” is the perfect size for the RO. And since the white gold 16204BC has the same dimensions as the 16202 — a 39mm diameter, 8.1mm thickness, and 48.6mm lug-to-lug — there were no surprises when putting it on the wrist. The 41 × 10.5mm RO Selfwinding 15500ST is too big for my taste and my wrist. But the 37 × 9.1mm 15550ST is just a tad too small and a bit too stocky, so the “Jumbo” is the winner. The quality of finishing on the bezel, case, case back, bracelet, and folding clasp is also excellent. That leads to a watch that’s thoroughly pleasing both to the eyes and on the wrist.
About the price of this particular Royal Oak
What’s not so pleasing is something that, funnily enough, I don’t mind. It’s the price. The white gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked has a price of US$124,100. That is such a large figure, such an abstract number, that I almost find it hard to evaluate it correctly. Do you compare it to other gold or platinum skeleton watches? You could, but I don’t think the target audience works that way when selecting a (next) watch. I somehow can’t seem to visualize someone looking for a skeletonized watch in precious metal on a laptop with multiple tabs open, comparing brands, models, specs, and prices.
How exactly does one end up buying a watch like this? I’m not sure, but I suspect calls from AP staff to high-rolling clients are possible. Perhaps some of those clients even buy it on impulse at an AP House. Having said that, although the 16204BC is part of the regular collection and not technically a limited edition, the production numbers are incredibly small. In other words, the chances you will run into one at your local AP House are slim. If you want one, and AP hasn’t called you yet, you might want to grab the phone and see what’s possible.
So, is it worth the price? In the hypothetical case of me having an astronomical budget to work with, I would be tempted to buy it. And I don’t even care that much for skeletonized watches. It’s the size, shape, and “gray matter” inside the case that gets me (open)worked up — sorry about that.
