Hands-On: The Black DLC Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m NB6025-59H
We are fans of the Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m series. The watches in it offer incredible value for money and bring back a design from 1977 that is as relevant today as it was back in the late ’70s. The latest addition to Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m lineup is an all-black version, reference NB6025-59H. This stealthy take on the model looks quite different from its more traditional counterparts. It comes with a gray gradient dial, and in combination with the black DLC treatment, this creates a different beast altogether. So how does it compare to the regular black-dial model? Time to find out.
As I said, quite a few members of the Fratello team are fans of the Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m. The standard version was announced in the spring of last year, which was exciting news. As Mike explained in his introduction article, Citizen is not known, like Seiko, to wade through its extensive archives to bring back classics from the past. But the brand made a great exception with the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m. The watch takes the design from 1977 and executes it up to modern standards, resulting in a watch that is pretty much the best you can get for the money. Is the black-coated version better than the regular version?
A stealthier Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m
Strictly speaking, there is not a whole lot different about this new version of the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m. The watch features a black Duratect DLC-coated case and bracelet and comes with a nice gray gradient dial. Straight out of the packaging, the dial is the first thing that catches your eye. Everyone in the Fratello offices that saw the watch for the first time immediately reacted to the nice dial. It’s fun because we see plenty of gradient dials, but it’s more the context of each watch that determines the impact.
First off, the dial stands out because of its black surroundings and immediately brings some life to the watch. Had it been a black dial, it would have been too boring and flat. So Citizen did a great job making the dial the element that stands out. The dial is graced by the familiar set of hour markers and hands. They are filled with green-glowing lume that lights up bright in the dark. It’s a look that works and makes the watch almost feel futuristic, but it’s really not. Most of all, both in looks and the wearing experience, this new version feels familiar and trusted.
Different looks, familiar specs
But before we get into how the watch feels on the wrist, let’s look at some specs. In that regard, this new version is the same as the regular models. It comes with a 41mm Super Titanium case measuring 12.3mm thick with a 48.8mm lug-to-lug length and a 20mm lug spacing. The watch comes with a sapphire crystal and a black aluminum bezel insert with characteristic numerals in silver. That is one of the best design elements that makes the watch stand out compared to competitors. I love the font style a lot. While not truly unique, I associate it with the Promaster Diver as an instant standout element.
The 60-click dive bezel might look nice, but it’s not without its faults. As Nacho also explained about the regular model, the smooth, polished finish makes it a bit difficult to grip and turn the bezel. That said, when you do rotate it, the clicks are firm. It’s not the best bezel action I’ve witnessed at the sub-€1K price point, but at least it feels reassuring. Overall, I do love the look of the bezel, but its execution is just not the strongest point of the watch.
The Miyota 9051 movement
Inside the case, you will find the company’s automatic caliber 9051. The movement operates at 28,800vph, has a 42-hour power reserve, and provides an accuracy of +20/-10 seconds per day. These tolerances are better than many of the Seiko movements at his price point. Nacho reported that the movement of the regular models ran slightly fast at an average of +15 seconds per day. However, many owners of the regular version of the watch report much greater accuracy than the official numbers, so it seems a decent performer as far as we can see.
A full-titanium bracelet in stealthy black
The watch comes with a titanium bracelet that also received the black DLC treatment. It features a foldover clasp, a security lock, and a dive extension so you can wear the watch over your diving suit. Experiencing this bracelet is a funny one. Overall, the watch is super lightweight thanks to the titanium construction, but it’s also somewhat rattly. It kind of confused me as, at first, I wasn’t sure what to make of the bracelet in terms of quality.
As you can guess, it lacks the heft that many of us look for when judging a bracelet. And the rattling also sounds different since the bracelet is titanium and not stainless steel. Therefore, these are not necessarily signs of a badly made bracelet, and this one certainly isn’t. If anything, at this price point, getting a full titanium bracelet that is as comfortable as this one is an absolute plus.
Wearing the Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m NB6025-59H
On the wrist, the new Promaster model is, most of all, a fun watch. It’s a breeze to wear and looks attractive to boot. Something that immediately stands out is that the black DLC coating is not pitch black — far from it. Rather, it is dark gray, and in the sunlight, there is a slight yellowish-bronze hue from certain angles. I like that because it makes the watch a lot more lively than you would initially expect. As I said, on the wrist, it’s a handsome piece, and its design hasn’t aged a day since the ’70s. The dial is the big visual attraction and draws you in immediately.
Putting the watch on your wrist also immediately reminds you how much of a featherweight it is compared to stainless steel competitors. The watch is so light that in combination with the bracelet, it is super easy to wear. At times, I even almost forgot I was wearing a watch, but the dark color and visual attraction of the dial were instant reminders. Practically, the watch is easy to wear and wraps itself comfortably around the wrist. The clasp is not the most sturdy and well-made example out there, but it does close with a firm click. One thing that all the Promaster Diver Automatic 200m models have is a fairly small crown. Operating it is easy, but I would have loved to see a slightly bigger crown, both visually and practically.
Final thoughts about the Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m
First, I enjoyed my time with this new black version of the Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m. Because of its looks and specs, it feels like coming home. I love the regular version a lot, and I truly think it’s hard to find a better watch for the money. So what about this new black version? Besides being a bit more of an acquired taste, it is also more expensive at €995. Compared to the €649 for the regular black version on the rubber strap and the €749 for the blue dial version on a bracelet, that is a significant step up.
Unfortunately, it’s a step up that I would not take for this blacked-out version of the watch. The regular black- and blue-dial versions are so good that it’s hard to beat them, especially if you have to pay more. While I do enjoy the gradient dial that this new model has, it’s simply not enough for me. But I would very much love to see the regular models with a similar gradient dial to spice things up. If anything, this new black DLC version of the Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m shows that there is great potential for future models in the same line.
For more information, visit the official Citizen website. In the meantime, tell us your favorite of the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m series in the comments section.
