Hands-On With The Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar — Could This Yellow-Dial Diver Have A Place In My Collection?

Ever since Hodinkee Editor-in-Chief James Stacey posted an image on social media of a Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar, I knew I had to do a hands-on with one. Yellow is a color that keeps drawing me back. The Divingstar had already been on my radar, but seeing it time and time again wore down my very limited resistance to trying out a watch I might want to actually own one day.

Doxa is an interesting brand. The company now specializes in dive watches but historically produced many different styles, including dress and daily watches. Since the Jenny family took over the direction of the brand, it has focused on a core lineup. That included the entry-level Sub 200, the battle-tank-like Sub 300T (think Rolex Sea-Dweller), and the flagship watch, the Sub 300 (think Rolex Submariner).

Doxa dive watches

Sure, there are other models in the range, including a series of dive-capable chronographs and the elusive Doxa Army. However, the core DNA of the brand sits within those three model lines. The Sub 200, by the way, is based on Doxa’s original first-ever dive watch, the reference 11804.

Last year, Doxa introduced another line to its core range, the Sub 200T. This is a shrunken-down version of the 300T. The Sub 300T is a panzer of a watch that can handle depths that are the territory of the Omega Ploprof and Rolex Sea-Dweller. But with the 200T, gone are the helium escape valve, 1,2000m depth rating, and 42.5mm case size. Instead, it’s a 39mm watch that still could go to a perfectly capable 200 meters down. Doxa’s Sub 200T is also a watch I’ve handled before.

The Doxa Sub 200T is my favorite 

The Sub 200T addresses every design issue I had with the Sub 300T or the Sub 300. First, gone was the clumsy bracelet of the 300T which flares out in an ugly way where it meets the case. In fact, there is no proper articulation, so it adds to the lug-to-lug footprint of that watch. The 200T, however, retains the excellent clasp and ratcheting dive extension system that the 300T has. Second, the crappy clasp of the Sub 300 is nowhere to be seen. Third, and also not present, is the head-scratching domed sapphire crystal on the Sub 300. That crystal has such a massive amount of pop, that you can’t read the watch underwater at certain angles. Finally, we get a 39mm case that feels more like a 37mm one on the wrist thanks to its cushion shape.

In short, then, short something vintage, the Doxa Sub 200T is my favorite rendition of Doxa’s “fugly” magic. The only modern exception to this would be the recently released Doxa Sub 300 Great White limited edition. That lume dial is drop-dead gorgeous. But when the opportunity arose to pick a color and take the Sub 200T for a longer-term review, I knew precisely which one I’d be spending multiple weeks with.

Why I went for Divingstar yellow 

Which colorway did I choose? Well, if it’s not already obvious from the photos, I went for the Divingstar. Doxa’s core colorways have historically been silver (Searambler),  black (Sharkhunter), and orange (Professional). That said, yellow was present almost at the very start too, but it was just rare. Therefore, yellow is as Doxa as orange is.

It’s a scientific fact that yellow makes humans happier. Yellow sparks something in our brains that we associate with happiness. Long may that last because, as I have been looking down at the Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar on my wrist these last few weeks, I’ve smiled a lot.

This 39mm dive watch is the Doxa for me

With the trend to smaller watches in recent years, Doxa was missing a mid-sized offering until the Sub 200T. This is something my colleague Thomas also noted. The rugged Sub 300T offers the classic looks of the original Conquistador but with technically upgraded capabilities and tolerances thanks to modern manufacturing.

Doxa’s Sub 300, meanwhile, offers something for us vintage enthusiasts. The Sub 300’s smaller dial footprint and thinner case create an appealing package for those interested in the original vintage version that debuted in 1967. The Sub 300 plays a solid role as the brand’s halo product and houses a COSC-certified movement. However, as I noted in this article, there is a precedent for smaller Doxa Subs. Several of these existed in the brand’s golden era of the 1970s. Examples survive of what were, in essence, Sub 300Ts shrunken down to a 35mm size. These were also called the Sub 200. Doxa used to advertise these as women’s watches, and they could be seen in old Doxa advertisements.

Handling the Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar underwater 

Of all the colors I have experimented with underwater, yellow has to be one of the most legible. Indeed, the Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar seems far more legible than the brand’s famous orange-dialed counterparts. I’ve taken every colorway in the collection underwater save for the Aquamarine, and this has to be the easiest to read, even in the churned-up waters that Sydney has been facing lately.

The Doxa Sub 200T also has the advantage of a slim profile that hugs the wrist nicely. This is a fantastic factor when you’re considering taking a watch underwater because it’s easy enough to scrape it on rocks when you’re mucking about.

There are other yellow options out there 

Do you want to partake in the joy, but Doxa isn’t for you? Thankfully, there are quite a few watches with yellow dials out there. One that comes to mind is the Citizen Tsuyosa NJ0150-56Z, which provides some of the magic of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual in yellow but is something still in production and not several thousand euros on the secondary market. That said, that yellow-dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual is a watch I lust after.

Breitling’s Superocean Automatic 42 is another great option for those who can spend around €5K. Or, if you have a much larger budget, you could look at picking up a secondhand Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver in yellow. Hublot has also created some interesting options with its recent Yellow Magic models. Really, there’s an option for every taste and budget. I’d like to see more yellow-dial watches out in public, and a few more smiles would be a good thing!

Concluding thoughts on the Doxa Sub 200T

The Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar has been on my mind since that dastardly James Stacey started waxing lyrical about it on The Grey Nato podcast. Well, it’s weaseled its way into my brain, and now it could worm its way into my collection. There is something joyous about yellow-dial watches, and this one ticks a lot of boxes.

What about you, Fratelli? What’s your favorite color for a watch dial that sits outside the norm? Let me know what that is in the comments!