Hands-On With The New Series Of Titanium Fortis Vagabond V-40 GMTs
When you think of Fortis watches, the first that comes to mind is probably the famous Cosmonaut’s Chronograph. I would agree with that. But if we create a wider context, I would say that the Fortis catalog can be defined by its wide selection of sturdy and modern-looking tool watches. From the Marinemaster to the Flieger and the Stratoliner, they all have an instantly recognizable Fortis design signature. With the introduction of the new Fortis Vagabond V-40, the brand adds a series of GMTs with roots firmly planted in the past to its catalog. However, as you would expect from Fortis, the vintage-inspired design is combined with the best in modern-day production quality. Let’s find out more.
I was quite surprised when the new Fortis Vagabond V-40 series landed on my desk. These watches have a design I didn’t expect to see from Fortis. I am a fan of the brand’s Novonaut N-42, the successor to the popular Cosmonaut’s Chronograph. When I reviewed that series, it reminded me of both the visual brilliance and incredible production quality of Fortis watches. Having said that, the Stratoliner and Flieger collections also offer some great modern timepieces. A great example is the Fratello × Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Umber Brown Capsule Edition that we worked on with the brand.
The new Fortis Vagabond V-40 series immediately stands out
But if you are familiar with all the different lines in the brand’s catalog, you know that the new Vagabond models are a step in a new direction. At first glance, the style of this new series seems inspired by the designs of the 1960s and ’70s. It’s an interesting take on a current-day GMT watch that will surely attract new fans to the brand. The new watches feature a 40mm Grade 5 titanium case with a rectangular tonneau shape and a 200m water resistance rating.
Fortis offers the watch with three dial colors. The first is a deep sunray blue, the second is a textured light gray, and the third and last option is a sunray anthracite. These dials each feature a combined hour and minute track on the periphery.
The 12-hour markers are a mix of applied rectangular indexes for the even hours and applied numerals for the uneven hours. All the non-numeral markers are filled with white Super-LumiNova for legibility in the dark.
A dial full of clever design choices
Moving inward from the hour/minute track, you will find a large 18K white gold ring bearing the 24-hour GMT scale. As you can see, a date window has replaced the “12” at 6 o’clock. It’s a clever design trick that cleanly integrates the date window. Another nice detail is the font that the designers created for all the different scales. It strikes a perfect balance between classic elegance and modern-day relevance.
The handset consists of pencil-style hour and minute hands and a nice, sharp needle-shaped seconds hand. The smaller GMT hand features an orange arrow-shaped tip, which has a white Super-LumiNova filling, just like the hour and minute hands.
The central portion of the dial holds the Fortis logo on the upper half, while the lower half has the Vagabond name and “Chronometer Certified” text, the latter indicating the movement’s accuracy.
The Fortis Vagabond V-40 series is exceptionally well made
But before we get to the movement, it’s good to highlight all the little details that make these watches stand out. While the head-on view of the case might look retro, the construction and profile view give the watches a more modern feel. As you can see, the bracelet attaches to the case with large screws.
On top of that, the combination of predominantly brushed and polished finishes accentuates the case’s angles, making it look a lot more modern than you would initially expect.
Overall, the dial has a funky ’70s feel. But if you zoom in on the different details, you will find they are meticulously produced and finished. From the combination of the circular-brushed top and polished sides of the white gold GMT ring to the sharpness of the applied markers and numerals, every single detail is executed exceptionally well. The exterior of the case is no slouch either, showing superb finishing quality and a beautiful branded crown.
Equipped with a Block bracelet
The case is combined with a Grade 5 titanium bracelet. You will recognize the brand’s Block bracelet design if you are a Fortis fan. Here, it is sturdy and lightweight thanks to the use of titanium, and it features links with slotted screws for easy sizing. The bracelet also comes with a folding clasp with a push-button release and a micro-adjustment slide. Notably, though, the bracelet does not taper.
Usually, that doesn’t bother me much when it comes to hardcore tool watches like the Fortis Novonaut or the Fleiger. But for this Vagabond, it would have been nice to see a taper as the case is a bit more elegant. Having said that, the current bracelet is certainly comfortable. It is a great fit thanks to the minimal weight and the sizing options.
The Fortis Werk 13 developed with Kenissi
If you turn the watch around, you will see glimpses of the chronometer-certified Werk 13 developed in collaboration with Kenissi. The automatic movement operates at 28,800vph, has 28 jewels, and offers 70 hours of power reserve. It features a bidirectional rotor and a traversing bridge fixed at both sides to improve resistance to shocks and vibration.
It is a flyer-style GMT movement, meaning that you can move the 12-hour hand in one-hour increments. As with most GMT movements of this type, moving the 12-hour hand also allows you to adjust the date forward or backward.
Wearing the Fortis Vagabond V-40
Thanks to the use of titanium, the watch is a joy to wear. The low weight and sculpture of the 40mm case ensure the watch feels at home on wrists of various sizes, even with its 51mm lug-to-lug and 13.9mm thickness. The watch feels substantial in size and dimensions but never too big or heavy. I love the bracelet as it is the perfect example of how good a bracelet can be. Apart from the lack of a nice taper that I already mentioned, the build quality of the brand’s Block bracelet is brilliant. Additionally, operating the crown to change the time or date gives that same quality feel.
All this made wearing the three watches a great joy. I would not have expected any different from Fortis, but the bar the brand set is nothing short of impressive. Though I generally wouldn’t gravitate toward a watch with a design like this, after wearing the three models, I did feel the appeal. Additionally, while I first felt the new Vagabond series was perhaps too retro, that changed during my time with these watches. The longer I wore them, the more I felt these were modern-day tool watches with a little retro twist rather than an overbearing retro feel.
Final thoughts on the new Fortis Vagabond V-40
Overall, the new Vagabond series is an interesting addition to the brand’s collection. With this new trio of GMT watches, Fortis introduces a different design aesthetic that stands out both in the brand’s collection and the overall watch landscape. While the way of indicating the second time zone is nothing new — aesthetically, the Oris Aquis GMT comes to mind — the execution looks unique. On top of that, Fortis and Kenissi partnered up to equip these watches with a thoroughly modern flyer-GMT caliber. It shows the great effort that Fortis put into creating these watches, which are available today for €6,800.
Those efforts, combined with the usual high-level quality of production, led to an interesting new Fortis line. If you like the design, I recommend checking out the new Vagabond V-40. So many great details make for an intriguing series of modern traveler’s watches. Yes, you read that correctly. I started the review by stating that these watches have designs rooted in the past, but they are certainly modern watches at their core. And that’s why they fit effortlessly into the brand’s collection. It’s another job well done by Fortis.
Let us know what you think of the new Vagabond series, and check it out on the official Fortis website.
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