Trying On Two Versions Of The Holthinrichs Signature Ornament, The Dutch Brand’s Entry-Level Watch

Michiel Holthinrichs, an architect turned watch manufacturer, made a name for himself and his brand by introducing the world’s first watch with a 3D-printed stainless steel case in 2016. State-of-the-art technology and machining processes created cases with swooping lines and sensual curves, but the human touch made the watches sexy; the machines could only do so much. It takes artisanal manual craftsmanship to finish them immaculately and make them look and feel desirable. As you would guess, this type of manufacturing is costly, which the price reflects. To allow more people to enjoy the fascinating shapes of his creations, Michiel decided to use CNC machining to create a more affordable collection. I had the pleasure of trying on two versions of the Holthinrichs Signature Ornament, the brand’s entry-level watch with a price of €3,500 before taxes.

The Netherlands is a country built on and governed by compromises. Making a concession is very Dutch, so Dutchman Michiel Holthinrichs probably wasn’t too upset when he needed to adjust the production process to create a watch at a more affordable price than before. He had probably already envisioned how a CNC-machined watch of his design would look. The new entry-level watch, the Signature Ornament, looks great and completely aligns with the Holthinrichs design codes. Michiel may have compromised when it comes to the fabrication, he didn’t do so with the design. Because of this, just like the more exclusive, 3D-printed bespoke Ornament that Thor wears on a beige Kaufmann alligator strap, the Signature Ornament is one curvy creature that uncompromisingly tickles the watch brain.

Trying on two versions of the Holthinrichs Signature Ornament

The right word to describe Michiel Holthinrichs, I think, is “enthusiastic.” He was at Fratello HQ to deliver and pick up some watches, and before I knew it, we were engaged in an energetic conversation about all kinds of topics — watches, yes, but also cars. Michiel is a trained architect and a self-taught car nut with a deep love for Pininfarina designs. The good thing is that his schooling, enthusiasm, and love are visible in his watches. Particularly in his 3D-printed watches, the raw parts of the case have an appearance that harks back to the watchmaker’s education. He names the modernist style Horlogerie Brut, a hint to Le Corbusier’s béton brut. The concept translates to a play on textures, material honesty, natural patinas, and raw details directly derived from the manufacturing processes. To provide a strong contrast, manual finishing comes into play.

Swooping lines

The smooth, swooping lines of the Signature Ornament also connect to the aesthetics of classic cars. This 38.5mm case is made of Grade 5 titanium with contrasting raw and brushed finishes, including on the signed crown at 3 o’clock. The bezel and the case band have a striking concave shape. The 50m-water-resistant case also has a 9.85mm thickness, which includes the 2mm-thick double-domed sapphire crystal. Now, what elements look like a car? Well, the automotive-inspired shapes are more impressionist than literal translations, but the answer to the question is in the lugs. The dramatic flow and shape, as well as the delicate three-dimensional details, can’t help but make you think of the distinct fenders of cars dating back as far as a century, a time when Art Nouveau was all the rage.

The flowing lugs do not connect to the central body of the case. Rather, they connect to the underside of it and gracefully follow the case’s shape. The pronounced and prominently proportioned lugs give the watch a 46mm lug-to-lug length. And just like the case, the lugs show a lovely mix of raw and brushed finishes.

Movement concessions

To keep the Holthinrichs Signature collection at a lower price than previous creations, the brand opted for the robust top-grade Sellita SW300. This automatic movement may be a cost-efficient choice, but Holthinrichs didn’t just put an off-the-shelf caliber in the Signature. Instead, the movement received customization in the shape of a bespoke rotor that echoes the cantilevered markers on the dial. The rotor shows five inner segments that resemble the reflections of sunrise. It comes to life through a brushed finish on the top surface with contrasting polished bevels. This rotor also features a tungsten weight, and the 18K gold plating matches the sweeping Art Nouveau design language.

The layered dial deserves all the attention it can get

The Holthinrichs Signature Ornament comes in five dial variations. The Delft Blue version has a ceramic dial, and the other four have dials made from a frosted piece of metal. You can choose between 14K yellow gold, 18K rose gold, or white or black rhodium, all with a sparkling finish. I had the version with the rose gold dial paired with a green Epsom leather strap at my disposal, which I liked the most. The other one had a white rhodium dial and was outfitted with a cognac-colored Epsom leather strap.

Each dial has a frosted metal base and a layer of double-domed sapphire crystal above it. This second layer bears a printed Holthinrichs logo and the minute markers. The third layer is a solid metal marker ring with 12 sharp teeth serving as hour markers.

For readability in the dark, the cantilevered indexes received an application of Super-LumiNova C3. This all sounds three-dimensional, and it certainly looks that way. You could also say “architectural” because it’s not just the depth of the dial that creates a dynamic visual mini spectacle. Indeed, the shapes of the indexes and the way these suspended objects reflect the light are also responsible.

Wearing the Holthinrichs Signature Ornament

Let me start by saying that the pink-gold-dialed version with the green strap is a wonderfully tasteful color combination and my favorite. But that doesn’t mean I didn’t appreciate the one with the white rhodium dial. Both versions have a lot of presence for a watch with a 38.5mm case. Its slightly long but curvy design ensures the small watch melds perfectly with the wrist. Then, the contrast between curves and the much sharper, edgy elements on the three-dimensional dial creates tension and dynamism. Comfort comes from the lightweight titanium case and the Epsom leather strap that closes with a titanium pin buckle.

Is €3,500 (ex. taxes) a good price for the Holthinrichs Signature Ornament? If you dismiss this watch based on the presence of a Sellita movement, you’re denying yourself a timepiece made in low quantities with a well-considered, one-of-a-kind design and details that will have you staring at it for ages to come. The smooth, sculptural curves, striking angles, contrasting finishes, and subtle color use convinced me. Is that a Pininfarina on the wrist? No, it’s a Holthinrichs.