Hands On With The Stylishly Monochromatic Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey 42mm

I really like Hublot. There, I said it! It’s not always the cool thing to say in the world of watches, but I’m not afraid to admit it. My favorite series is the brand’s Classic Fusion, which links back directly to the brand’s beginnings. The latest addition to the Classic Fusion series is a duo of Essential Gray models. This pair of time-and-date models get the monochromatic make-over we have also seen for the Big Bang Unico and the Spirit of Big Bang. These two might just be the best of the series yet. I had a chance to go hands-on with the 42mm Classic Fusion Essential Grey to learn more.

As I explained in the introduction article about the new Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey models, I loved seeing the introduction of the Classic Fusion Original models last year. That series of models perfectly showed that Hublot founder Carlo Crocco introduced a great industry classic that hasn’t grown old for a second. The 38mm models in gold and titanium are especially great modern reminders of Crocco’s vision, which led to the introduction of the first Hublot in 1980. I made the gold model part of my favorite summer watches as a great reminder of the Mediterranean yachting lifestyle of the 1980s. However, the watch would not be out of place on a modern yacht either, thus showing its design relevance.

The story of Hublot’s Essential Grey series

While the modern reissues of the original Classic Fusion models might be my favorites, the two Essential Grey models that the brand recently announced immediately caught my eye as well. The Essential Gray series has been introduced as an online exclusive collectors’ series that gives one of the brand’s models a monochromatic makeover.

The Big Bang Unico Essential Grey kicked off the series in 2022, followed a year later by the Spirit of Big Bang Essential Grey. Both showed that the colorless, gray aesthetic fits the chronographs with open-worked dials well and gives the watches a very technical presence.

When the Classic Fusion models receive the same makeover, they are completely transformed. What immediately stands out is how stylish the two watches look. While the Essential Grey lineup began as a special series meant exclusively for collectors, these two models certainly have a broader appeal. Proof of that came as soon as the watch landed in the office. Everybody agreed that it is a good-looking watch that falls among the best in the Classic Fusion series.

The 42mm Classic Fusion Essential Grey

We had the smaller 42mm version of the Classic Fusion in for review. It is easily the better version of the two as the other option is a 45mm model which seems awkwardly large for a Classic Fusion. The titanium case measures 42mm in diameter, is 10.4mm thick, and is 50.4mm long from lug to lug. Despite its substantial size, the overall profile is nice and slim, and the material is lightweight, so you immediately know this watch will be easy to wear.

I also love the case design and finish. Hublot does a great job accentuating the different elements of the design with the finishing. The multi-layered construction allows for a nice contrast of finishes. The bezel is brushed on top with polished screws and sides, the lugs and case bands are polished, and the piece that holds the integrated rubber strap is also brushed with polished screws. The mix of finishes ensures that the monochromatic colors get plenty of visual drama and constantly make you return to the watch.

There is plenty of monochromatic contrast

The gray sunburst dial with its faceted applied indices adds to the visual attractiveness. Next to the smaller hour marker at 3 o’clock, you will find a date window that is integrated nicely thanks to the color-matched date disc. The indices match the characteristic sword-style hands and seconds hand, with the Hublot logo as the counterweight. Overall, it’s a very nicely designed watch that leaves hardly any room for criticism if you like its style.

The watch comes on a gray, textured hybrid strap with a folding clasp. As I alluded to in the introduction article, it looks like a titanium mesh bracelet at first glance. And I would love to see the watch on a mesh bracelet. It would up the cool factor significantly. Combining a rubber base and a fabric upper also looks techy and cool. The deployant clasp fits the style of the watch well, although it is pretty thick. Most of the time, that is not a problem except when you place your wrist on a desk, for instance. Even then, it was never a huge problem as the watch rested nicely on a flat surface. The strap and buckle quality is great, and the clasp is easy to use thanks to the push-button release.

The Hublot caliber HUB1110 is based on a Sellita SW300-1a

Inside the case, you will find the Hublot caliber HUB1110 based on the Sellita SW300-1a. The automatic movement operates at 28,800vph, has 25 jewels, and has a 42-hour power reserve. It features a customized rotor that features the brand’s name. Hublot finishes these movements in-house for some extra visual brilliance. But because we’re talking about a €8,800 watch, a modified Sellita may well raise some eyebrows.

In all honesty, considering the price and Hublot’s in-house watchmaking skills, you have to wonder whether that is something that could be improved. While a Sellita-based movement is reliable and easy to service, competitors use in-house movements for similar-priced (and even more affordable) watches. A good example within LVMH is Zenith, which powers its watches with in-house movements, which is a big part of why fans love the brand.

While Hublot has used Zenith’s Elite movements for its 40mm Integrated Time Only models, I’d love to see an in-house movement from the Nyon brand for its more affordable options. I understand it’s a costly operation, but that would definitely add value.

Wearing the Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey

Once on the wrist, the Classic Fusion Essential Grey wears like a charm. The slim profile, combined with the 42 mm size, is a perfect fit for my wrist. While I generally prefer a smaller-sized watch between 38 – 40mm, I do realize that visually, a 42mm watch is an excellent match for my wrist size. Having said that, I would love to see a 40mm model of the Classic Fusion to find out whether it makes a significant difference.

But with the 42mm Classic Fusion Essential Grey, Hublot has created a watch that I truly enjoyed wearing. There is a certain feeling that everything makes sense on my wrist. The size, design, and proportions are all in perfect sync. And to be honest, that doesn’t happen all that often. I often find little things I would love to see differently, but I don’t have those with this Classic Fusion. Or don’t I?

Okay, there is one visual thing where I had to temper my OCD, and that’s the alignment of the bezel screws. I know that they are actually affixing screws, and Hublot doesn’t use a system like Audemars Piguet with a bolt that allows you to align them. However, this proved to be easy enough to get over. After wearing the watch for a day or two, it never really stood out.

Final thoughts on the Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey

I have worn the Classic Fusion on multiple occasions before in 45mm, and I must admit that this smaller version is a much better fit for me. On top of that, I adore this Essential Grey version for its monochromatic presence. Hublot ensured it had plenty of visual interest to make it jump off your wrist. The dial and the combination of finishes give the watch plenty of pizzazz to return to multiple times an hour. I was impressed by the subtle glint and glimmer that add a ton of dynamism to the watch. It proves that the concept of an all-grey lineup can work well if executed properly.

If there is one thing I would have to point out as a more serious downside, it is the choice of a modified Sellita. While I do not think it is a lousy movement per se, smaller brands that create significantly more affordable watches also use it. This begs the question of whether Hublot could use more movements from within the LVMH Group. The fact that the HUB1710 is based on the Zenith Elite 670 movement is proof of that. But I would love to see an in-house Hublot movement for the Classic Fusion.

I understand that it is a costly undertaking. But I think the Classic Fusion deserves it. It’s the watch that started it all for Hublot and made Crocco one of the great visionaries of the watch industry. And it’s the reason I love it so much. While the Classic Fusion Original is still my favorite, the Essential Grey has taken a well-deserved second spot on my Hublot Classic Fusion favorites list!

For more information, visit the official Hublot website. In the comments section, let us know your thoughts on these two new Classic Fusion models.