A Hands-On Introduction To The Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC Automatic 41mm
Formex is well known for bringing the heat to much more expensive brands in terms of features and pricing. Today, as the opening salvo of the company’s 25th-anniversary celebrations, the heat gets dialed up a little more. Say “hello” to the new Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC Automatic 41mm. Yes, that’s a mouthful, but it only scratches the surface of yet another spec beast from Formex.
With this release, Formex turned its attention to ceramics. For the first time, I detect a slightly brazen tone in the associated press materials. Formex does indeed intend to challenge much higher-end brands with this new statement of intent. Well, all right then; I will evaluate it as such! Let’s see what’s what!
The new Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC Automatic 41mm
It may be tempting to see this as just another version of the Essence 41mm. After all, it offers the same shape and the same 41mm × 46.2mm × 11.2mm dimensions. The shock-absorbing spring-loaded mid-case also returns, as does the 100m water resistance. You will still find a sapphire crystal up top and in the display case back. Nothing new here.
The familiarities continue on the inside. The new Essence runs on the same old automatic Sellita SW200-1 regulated to within COSC chronometer specs and certified as such. It still ticks at an industry-preferred 28,800vph and promises around 41 hours of autonomy.
Even the bracelet follows the familiar recipe. You get a neat quick-release system and a toolless micro-adjustable clasp. Wait, what? Toolless micro-adjustment on a ceramic clasp? That has never been done before, has it? Okay, I can see where this is going now!
The Formex ceramic treatment
Okay, so the big news here is ceramic. Zirconium oxide is anything but new in the world of watchmaking. Even its “democratization” isn’t. After all, Nivada recently dropped an all-ceramic watch at an unheard-of price level. Still, you could argue that Nivada’s version kept it simple with its all-matte execution. Formex, however, takes a different route.
The Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC Automatic 41mm tackles the toughest possible way of making a ceramic watch. For starters, Formex applies a combination of brushed and polished surfaces. I can attest that these surfaces are finished incredibly well. The brushing is deep and pronounced, tactile even, and the polishing is mirror smooth. The transitions leave nothing to be desired with their razor-sharp edges. Indeed, this is on par with seriously high-end ceramic watches. I will not mention the new Formex’s price yet, but this puts certain brands to shame with the premiums they charge for ceramic.
Now, finishing quality is always difficult to qualify and communicate, so Formex throws in another little ceramic feat — a toolless micro-adjustable clasp. I have to admit that I wasn’t aware of it, but apparently, this is an industry first. I cannot think of another, in any case. This clasp offers three 1.5mm adjustment increments. And yes, this system, too, is on par with much costlier options.
The Formex Essence Ceramica’s skeletonization efforts
The next thing you will surely notice is the open-worked dial. Now, it pays to know that Formex is part of a family-owned group of companies that includes the dial maker Cadranor. Together, they opened up the Sellita caliber and fitted it with a matching open-worked dial.
Both have a ruthenium plating for a stark, dark gray aesthetic. You will also notice a crazy amount of detail and several different finishing techniques on both the caliber and the dial. May I direct your attention, for instance, to the sculpted sections between the hour markers? Their brushed surfaces and polished angles with sharp corners imply serious dedication. This is quite literally cutting corners, but it is far from it on a figurative level.
The dial comes in a couple of versions. The one you see here is the GT version, with its gear-inspired shape and rose-tone indexes and hands. Alternatively, you could opt for a slightly subtler Stradale version with black hands and hour markers. The Stradale, in turn, comes in three variations with your choice of white, purple, or blue lume.
So, does this indeed turn up the heat?
Now is the right time to mention the price. Formex always offers great value, but you would be wrong to classify it as a lower-end brand. The new Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC Automatic 41mm follows that philosophy. The GT version costs CHF 4,150 / US$4,390 / €4,590 / £3,850. The Stradale sits a little bit lower at CHF 3,970 / US$4,250 / €4,450 / £3,750.
These are big numbers by any means. However, if you consider the quality, this watch does bring the heat to much higher-end brands. I have handled ceramic watches costing five times as much as the Formex Essence Ceramica without looking or feeling any different. The level of attention to detail quite simply impresses me. Some brands charge gold prices for ceramic watches. This Formex Essence Ceramica ridicules that approach with ease.
So, do I have nothing to complain about? Of course, I do! Formex still relies on a very techy, almost geeky design language. As much as the specs and quality impress me, the looks just don’t. The dialed-up-to-eleven vibes are great when it comes to features but not so much when it comes to aesthetics. Still, that’s all subjective. If you like the looks, this is one killer watch!
What do you think of the new Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC Automatic 41mm? Let us know in the comments section below!
