Hands-On With The New Makina Mephisto_III GMT

Until recently, I had only heard of Makina watches and hadn’t had the chance to try one out. But that all changed when the Filipino brand offered us the chance to try out its latest creation, the Mephisto_III GMT. The Mephisto is not necessarily a new watch as the regular version was the brand’s debut model in 2017. But with the addition of a GMT complication and a new dial color, today’s version of the Mephisto_III offers plenty to talk about. I had a chance to wear the watch for a week and discover what this modern-style GMT is all about.

When I started checking out Makina’s past releases, I found just how much the Mephisto has changed over the years, Back in 2017, when the first iteration came out, it was a markedly different watch. The case shape has remained, but the current Mephisto_III looks almost worlds apart. The folks at Makina made the third generation (of which this GMT is a part) the first on an integrated bracelet. On top of that, they added a lot of refinement compared to the first two generations. This has led to a surprising take on a modern integrated-bracelet sports watch that most definitely stands out. With this latest version, Makina shows that adding a GMT function makes the Mephisto_III a standout affordable traveler’s watch.

The details of the Makina Mephisto_III GMT

Let’s go over the details of the Mephisto_III GMT. The watch has a 38mm stainless steel case that is 11.55mm thick and measures 45mm from lug to lug. The case is water resistant to 100 meters and shows clear influences of classics from the 1970s. It features a mix of brushed and polished finishes that accentuate the angular lines nicely. The way that Makina designed the flow from the case to the bracelet is very nice. It feels natural, and there is a great taper on the bracelet that gives the watch an overall elegant style.

The case is paired with a remarkable multi-faceted dial. This dial is still conceptually similar to that of the inaugural model, but in execution, there is a world of difference. It has a pattern of facets that is most definitely an acquired taste. Honestly, the blue dial almost overwhelmed me with its visual extravagance when I first looked at it.

But once you give it a bit of time and check it out up close, you will see that it has a clever design The blue dial dons sharp and angular applied indexes, while faceted alpha hands and a red GMT hand rotate above it. The GMT hand matches the red 24-hour scale set against the brushed silver background of the rehaut.

The integrated bracelet complements the watch perfectly

The overall feel of the dial is very angular. However, the softer shape of the bezel balances that, giving the watch a distinct, standout look. The case is combined with an integrated bracelet that takes after the one from the famous Patek Philippe Nautilus. The H-link design combines polished center links and brushed outer links.

The visual impact matches that of the case, which is why it is a good fit for the watch. As I mentioned, the bracelet has a nice taper, ensuring an elegant look. It’s also equipped with a butterfly clasp with the brand’s logo on it.

Inside the case, Makina equips the Mephisto_III GMT with the Miyota caliber 9075. This automatic GMT movement is very popular among microbrands as it is the go-to flyer-style GMT movement for affordable watches. The caliber operates at 28,800vph and offers 42 hours of power reserve. As you can see, the movement has a customized gold electroplated rotor, a clever trick to make the watch look much better through the display case back. The 9075 is not a visually striking movement in its standard execution. That is why a closed case back or a customized rotor are the best solutions for that “issue.”

Wearing the Makina Mephisto_III GMT

Once on the wrist, the first thing that stands out is the super nice 38mm size. We often see larger watches with integrated bracelets, and they tend to feel large, as most of you know. A watch with an integrated bracelet makes a larger visual impact, so a smaller case size is a nice choice to keep it in check. Additionally, the Mephisto_III GMT wraps itself nicely around the wrist.

Thanks to the angular “lugs,” the bracelet is placed at an angle, it fits the wrist so well. And I must say that compared to many of its competitors, the quality of the watch is also fantastic. The bracelet feels sturdy, and the different parts are machined so well.

On the wrist is also where the dial gets a bit more context. Slowly, I got used to the radial triangular pattern, and it certainly helped that the dial didn’t feel big compared to the case and the bezel. The visual balance ensures the watch doesn’t show a clear clash of shapes. Another thing that stood out is that the angular dial is not as pronounced on the wrist as it first appears. Especially in natural daylight, the effect of the dial structure is super interesting because, depending on the angle, the dial changes texture and color a bit. It sure was an interesting experience.

The Mephisto_III GMT does not have a date

Operating the movement is easy. It’s a flyer-style GMT caliber, so pulling out the crown to the first position lets you adjust the 12-hour hand to the local time in one-hour increments. Usually, turning the hand twice around the dial lets you adjust the date. The thing is, though, the Mephisto_III GMT doesn’t have a date.

In my opinion, this is a missed opportunity because I prefer my GMT to have a date as a proper traveler’s watch. While I don’t travel through time zones a lot, if I were to, that would be an issue. On top of that, the red GMT hand is quite small. It didn’t keep me from reading the time properly, but a slightly bigger hand would have been more practical.

Final thoughts on the Makina Mephisto_III GMT

Makina offers an interesting watch with this Mephisto_III GMT. It shows that the Mephisto’s design certainly suits GMT versions. While the design is not for everyone, I appreciate the brand’s courage to create something that is not an immediate crowd-pleaser. You either need to love it immediately or be intrigued by the design to give this a chance. I was part of that second group of people and greatly enjoyed the design. The little details that showed how much work went into creating the watch stood out to me.

So did the build quality and the overall sturdy feel of the watch. It is much better to compare that to many of the brand’s peers. The Makina Mephisto_III GMT is available for an affordable US$850. It makes this a great buy for those who are looking for something a little off the beaten path. If you love the modern looks of a sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the Mephisto_III could be for you. But if you enjoy a GMT function on top of that, this new Makina could be the perfect option.

The new Makina Mephisto_III GMT is now available on the brand’s website.