Hands-On With The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition
Yema does not shy away from more creative uses of materials and colors. The French brand’s latest release proves this point brilliantly. You would be forgiven for thinking this was a forged carbon watch at first sight. You would be wrong, however. The new Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition is made of hand-finished black PVD-coated stainless steel.
Yema will produce 200 units of this edition. Despite the limited numbers and large amount of handwork, the price of €2,449 is just €200 more than the non-limited versions. At the time of writing, the batch has not sold out yet, so you can still order one. Let’s have a closer look together!
The Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20
Let’s start with a quick refresher course on the Yema Wristmaster Slim. Within Yema’s current collection, you can have your pick of the Wristmaster Traveller or the Wristmaster Slim CMM.20. Both follow Yema’s take on the integrated-bracelet sports watch, with several refinements for the more expensive Wristmaster Slim, including a micro-rotor movement, slimmer case, micro-adjustable clasp, and slightly different overall case profile. For the budget-minded among you, the Traveller comes in at €890, while the non-limited Slim costs €2,249.
Like the non-limited models, this latest version’s case measures 39mm across and 43.5mm from tip to tip. The case itself is just 9mm thick, with a slightly protruding sapphire crystal on top. Proportionally, the Wristmaster is spot on. The case has plenty of presence, while its shortness, smooth drop-off, and thinness ensure comfort and subtlety. Yema rates its water resistance at an ample 100 meters.
Inside ticks Yema’s Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20 (CMM.20). This micro-rotor movement runs at 28,800 beats per hour. Yema rates its accuracy at a great -3/+7 seconds per day, and its power reserve tops out at a healthy 70 hours.
The hand finish on the Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20
Extensive manual finishing sets this limited edition apart from the regular Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20. And when I say “extensive,” I do mean it. All exterior parts and even the movement bridges on display through the sapphire case back got the treatment.
So, what treatment would that be? The surfaces receive a randomized brushing with abrasive tools. This is a scattered, random pattern, unlike regular brushing, which consists of long, parallel streaks. The same pattern adorns the dial, bezel, case, and bracelet, all done by hand. The movement plates feature a similar pattern but on a smaller scale.
Once the brushing process is complete, Yema proceeds with a black PVD coating. The result looks a lot like forged carbon. Would it be disrespectful to call it faux carbon? The effect is a little bit different, though. This features more of a metallic shimmer and less of forged carbon’s 3D effect. And, of course, you get the weight and cold feeling of steel rather than the lightness and room-temperature touch of carbon.
Wearing the new Wristmaster Limited Edition
Ergonomically, Yema knocks it out of the park with the Wristmaster. The reduced thickness of the Slim CMM.20 pushes it from good to great. It is one of those watches with a seemingly neutral size. It feels simultaneously muscular and subtle, and it is neither big nor small. The bracelet tapers nicely, and its short links make for a comfortable wearing experience.
Yema includes a micro-adjustment mechanism, which you operate by simply pulling out the links flanking the butterfly clasp. Unfortunately, as always with clasps like this, you are left with unsightly gaps. I prefer no micro-adjustment mechanism over one that leaves gaps, but I know many people would disagree. In any case, if you are like me, you can always just not use it.
Is this the Wristmaster to get?
The Yema Wristmaster CMM.20 triggers some contradictory feelings in me. On one hand, I love that Yema does something unique with this new finish. On the other hand, it kind of leaves me wondering why. Perhaps the black PVD throws me off because it puts it squarely in the territory of forged carbon. I prefer the visual depth of carbon, and I like its lightness, strength, and scratch resistance, so why would I buy a watch that looks like carbon but isn’t? Maybe a more distinct color or no PVD at all would give the finish more of a signature look.
I have the same mixed feelings about the movement. Yes, it is cool to have such a good-looking micro-rotor movement. However, by housing it in a very slightly altered Wristmaster case and bracelet, it does not necessarily feel like a €2.5K watch on the wrist. In this segment, I prefer simpler movements in fancier housing instead of the other way around.
Still, if you are a fan of the Yema Wristmaster line, this one is kind of special. The appearance is unique, and I like its looks. The brushing strokes are larger than the typical flakes in forged carbon, and the metallic sheen is also unlike anything I have seen on a watch. The movement is truly amazing to look at and, aesthetically, it punches above its price class.
Pricing and availability
The new Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 was introduced on November 29th, and the first orders began shipping on December 10th. You can still order one of the 200 limited-edition watches on the Yema website for €2,449, and shipping will continue at the end of January 2025. At this price, you pay a €200 premium over the standard versions without all the handwork, which is quite reasonable!
What do you think of the new Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition in hand-brushed black PVD steel? Let us know in the comments below!
