Seiko’s Prospex range is rapidly growing and not just with dive watches. After last week’s introduction of the new Marinemasters, we are now treated to two Speedtimer chronographs. The new SRQ051 and SRQ053 might look familiar. That’s because, last November, we saw two Speedtimer models inspired by the same 1972 Seiko chronograph as these watches. The first (SRQ047) came with an ever-popular panda dial, and the second (SRQ049) was a limited edition with a reverse panda dial. Today’s two new additions also have reverse panda dials. It’s time to check out what differentiates them from last year’s SRQ049.

Those two watches from last November marked the start of the second series within Seiko’s modern high-end mechanical Prospex Speedtimer lineup. Going back to 2021, the first watches that revived the Speedtimer name under the Prospex line were inspired by a stopwatch used during the 1964 Tokyo Olympics. I am a fan of the limited-edition Prospex Speedtimer SRQ035 because it has a brilliant, crisp presence that also defined the 1964 stopwatch it takes after.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 and SRQ053

Mechanical Speedtimers inspired by classic Seiko chronographs

Seiko has since released several Speedtimer models with quartz movements, but the second series of high-end mechanical Speedtimer chronographs debuted last year. As Thomas explained in his article, the watches were inspired by the Seiko 6138-8001 (reverse panda) and the 6138-8020 (panda dial) from 1972. The modern versions combine the ’70s inspiration with up-to-date specs for a series of great-looking watches with historical context.

Seiko Speedtimer SRQ047 And SRQ049 Chronographs

The SRQ047 and SRQ049 that debuted last year

As mentioned, the regular-production SRQ047 offered a panda dial, while the limited-edition SRQ049 came with a reverse panda dial. The latter celebrated the 100th anniversary of the Seiko brand. The new models are the SRQ051, which has a beautiful blue reverse panda dial, and the SRQ053, which comes with a black reverse panda dial. And if you think that the new SRQ053 and the limited-edition SRQ049 look eerily similar, you are not wrong.

At first glance, they look identical, but the dials are subtly different. Last year’s limited edition had a dark gray dial with silver registers and orange accents for the chronograph hands, but the new SRQ053 combines a black dial with silver registers and red tips for chronograph hands.

The specs of the Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 and SRQ053

But let’s recall some basic specs of both watches. The SRQ051 and the SRQ053 have a 42 × 49.5 × 14.6mm hard-coated stainless steel that is water resistant to 100 meters. The watches come on the same hard-coated stainless steel bracelet as last year’s releases. This nine-row bracelet has plenty of retro flair to match the style of the case and the dials.

Both watches feature a three-register layout with running sub-seconds at 3 o’clock, the hour counter for the chronograph at 6 o’clock, and a 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock. Tucked away between the 4 and 5 o’clock markers is the date window. Though some will undoubtedly hate this, I like that it’s very modest in appearance and only stands out when you need it. In terms of colors and finishing, there are quite a few nice details.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ053 dial close-up

The SRQ051 features a dark blue dial with applied indices, silver registers, and a silver chapter ring holding the black seconds scale. The tachymeter scale inhabits the rehaut and is printed in white on black. Looking closely, you’ll find that the two chronograph registers and the chapter ring feature concentric graining for some extra detail. The SRQ053 features the same dial layout and finish but swaps the blue color for a deep black shade.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ053

While the dial is easier on the eye with just black and silver, I prefer the blue version because it feels slightly more stylish. It’s a nice dark blue, and combined with the silver sub-dials, black rehaut, and little hints of red, it creates a super classy chronograph.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051

The in-house Seiko caliber 8R48

Inside the case, Seiko equips the watches with its in-house caliber 8R48. This automatic chronograph movement features a vertical clutch and column wheel for precise and tactile chronograph operation. The movement has a power reserve of 45 hours, and the accuracy is specified at +25/-15 seconds per day. We all know that the margins Seiko specifies do not often reflect reality. Usually, the movements run much more accurately than the official numbers suggest.

The movement sits behind a stainless steel screw-in case back. It offers basic information about the watch and a large Seiko logo in the middle. While it’s nothing fancy, I also don’t mind it. For me, the magic of these watches is on the front, not in the movement, although it is a solid power train.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ053 pocket shot

Wearing the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 and SRQ053

These two chronographs truly shine on the wrist, where it becomes clear that the proportions are spot on. In his article, Thomas expressed his wish to see a smaller mechanical Seiko Speedtimer. While I completely understand that wish, a smaller but equally thick chronograph would look very bulky.

I think Seiko nailed it with these watches’ current proportions. And as I can perfectly pull off a 42mm chronograph, they fit my wrist nicely. Sure, they are slim watches by any means, but they aren’t overly chunky for their diameter either.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 bracelet

Importantly, although these chronographs have a retro style, they still feel like thoroughly modern watches, which I love. If you want that typical ’70s style combined with modern execution, the SRQ051 and SRQ053 are great options.

Another thing I like about these Speedtimers is the balance of the dial design. All the different elements fall into place nicely, even if some people will debate the placement of the date window. As I already said, I am fine with the current design solution because the date blends in perfectly.

Final thoughts on the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 and SRQ053

From the case to the bracelet and the movement, every part of these Seiko Prospex Speedtimers feels solid and is a definite step up from the lower-priced Seiko Prospex models. And that is only logical if you consider the €2,700 price of the SRQ051 and SRQ053. But with all you get for the money, the price is not outrageous. Sure, it is a substantial sum, but not many brands can offer an in-house chronograph for a similar price.

Now, while I like these two new watches a lot, there are a few things I would like to see handled differently. While we might never see them, expressing them certainly can’t hurt. First, seeing the Prospex logo on a series of vintage-inspired chronographs is strange. While you can debate the style, it’s also very much a diver-related logo for me. Therefore, seeing that “X” on the Speedtimer and the Alpinist models will always feel slightly off.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 wrist shot

I also feel that Seiko could win fans over with a smaller and slimmer mechanical Speedtimer chronograph. Adding a 39–40mm version with a thinner case would only make the Speedtimer series more interesting to a larger audience. But while that may or may never happen, it doesn’t take anything away from the great Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 and SRQ053.

The Seiko Speedtimer SRQ051 and SRQ053 will be available in Seiko boutiques and select retail stores worldwide starting October 1st, 2024. What do you think about these new Seiko Speedtimer chronographs? Let us know in the comments below!

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer
Reference
SRQ051 (blue reverse panda) / SRQ053 (black reverse panda)
Dial
Blue or black with applied indices, contrasting sub-dials, and date window
Case Material
Stainless steel with hard coating
Case Dimensions
42mm (diameter) × 49.5mm (lug-to-lug) × 14.6mm (thickness)
Crystal
Curved sapphire with AR coating on the inside
Case Back
Stainless steel, screw-in
Movement
Seiko 8R48 — automatic and hand-winding chronograph, column wheel and vertical clutch, 28,800vph frequency, 45-hour power reserve, 34 jewels
Water Resistance
10 ATM (100m)
Strap
Stainless steel nine-row bracelet with push-button clasp and half links
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, small seconds), date, chronograph (12-hour and 30-minute counter, central seconds), tachymeter
Price
€2,700
Warranty
Two years