Hands-On: The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary is the dressiest release from the trio of red gold beauties. Its inky black dial and traditional case design make it a beauty that can be worn in various situations. Today, we’ll look at this complicated chronograph in more detail.
I remember when the Premier returned in 2019. I reviewed a 42mm panda-dial automatic and was impressed with the finishing. Since then, Breitling has introduced more Premier models, including a hand-wound version in a 40mm case. More complicated versions came in 2021 with the Datora and Duograph. The Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar is the most audacious offering yet and is part of a trio celebrating the brand’s 140th anniversary.
The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
Each of the 140th Anniversary models features an in-house movement with a perpetual calendar. However, the application is unique to the model. Specifically, the Premier Datora is the smallest with a 42mm diameter and 50.03mm lug-to-lug length. It is also made of 18K red gold. This piece is more formal with its polished black alligator strap and 18K red gold folding clasp. Still, a quick change to a rubber strap would allow the wearer to take advantage of the watch’s 100m water resistance rating.
A black dial with red gold details
The Premier Datora looks completely different from the Super Chronomat that I recently reviewed. Under the cambered sapphire crystal, the watch has a more traditional black dial with red gold details. A black tachymeter bezel adjoins a gold 60-second/minute track, which flows into the main black dial. The watch has applied red gold Arabic numerals for hour markers and black sub-dials. The sub-dials show off a mix of gold and white printing and offer a moonphase indicator, running seconds, day of the week, date, 30-minute totalizer, month, and leap year indicator.
All told, it’s a more subtle affair than the Super Chronomat and would look fantastic with formalwear. I also applaud Breitling’s choice of red gold because of its additional warmth over yellow gold.
A look at the case
The advanced perpetual calendar movement requires a relatively substantial case. The Premier Datora is 15.6mm thick, and its case contains polished and matte surfaces. Like all modern Premier models, this Breitling contains horizontal grooves and correctors on the side to help break up the thickness. The opposite side of the case has a large, signed winding crown and two rectangular pushers. The latter detail is an under-discussed feat considering that round pushers are easier for water resistance.
The in-house B19 movement
The Premier Datora, like the other 140th Anniversary pieces, uses the in-house B19 automatic movement. It’s on display via a sapphire display screw-in case back. In addition to the Côtes de Genève finishing and a visible column wheel, this caliber has a 22K red gold rotor showing the brand’s original Montbrillant Manufactory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The balance operates at a 28,800vph frequency, and the caliber boasts a chronometer certification and 96-hour power reserve. It’s a tour de force and shows what Breilting can do when choosing to create a highly complicated caliber.
A beauty on the wrist
Despite its larger size, the Premier Datora wears beautifully on the wrist due to the curved shape of the lugs. The case is heavy, robust, and commensurate with other highly complicated watches from various brands. With that in mind, the price of €55,000 / £48,000 / US$59,000 is also in league with other luxury brands. This Breitling is limited to 140 pieces and available in Breitling authorized dealers and online.
For more information on the Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary, visit the official Breitling site.
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