Hands-On: The Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
The 140th anniversary of Breitling has brought with it three stupendous watches. Navitimer, Premier, and Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar pieces in red gold celebrate the milestone. We’ve managed to get our hands on each of them, so look forward to in-depth reviews of all three. Today, we start with the largest of the bunch, the Super Chronomat. However, this beast is a real beauty.
Breitling does a nice job of releasing new watches regularly. Many are new color variants, but we’ve also seen our fair share of entirely new models. This year, for the brand’s 140th birthday, a trio of highly complicated watches have entered the scene. Each model is limited to 140 pieces, and because they’re made of 18K red gold and equipped with one of the most desirable movement types, they’re pricey. After seeing the watches and trying them on during Geneva Watch Days 2024, each left an indelible impression. Let’s examine the sportiest model, the Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar.
The Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar
The Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar is a strapping 44mm by 53.5mm watch with a 15.35mm thickness and a 100m water resistance rating. We haven’t received word of future models, but for the 140th anniversary, the only available case material is 18K red gold.
The watch comes exclusively on a Rouleaux-styled black rubber strap with an 18K folding buckle. Another material choice worth mentioning is glossy black ceramic. You’ll find it on the bidirectional 60-minute bezel, crown, and pushers.
An open-worked dial
For this model’s dial, Breitling chose a more audacious path in line with the character of the Super Chronometer Perpetual Calendar. After all, this is a bold, sporty watch that will be noticed on anyone’s wrist. An open-worked dial shows parts of the movement but also creates definition for the array of functionality. A lattice-like structure suspends the four sub-dials and forms bridges to the applied red gold hour markers. I’m not normally a fan of open-worked dials, but it works in this application due to several factors. The color scheme, size of the watch, and the lack of open space due to all of the sub-dials make it attractive instead of tacky.
One could also easily argue that the watch shines at night. The green-hued Super-LumiNova shines like a beacon on the central hands, the hour indexes, and the bezel’s rider tabs.
Complications galore
One glance at the Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar lets an onlooker know this is no normal Breitling. The topmost sub-dial is a moonphase indicator. The left sub-register contains a central gold hand that indicates the day while a smaller white hand records the running seconds. The right sub-dial has an outer track with the date and an inner 30-minute chronograph scale. Finally, the bottom sub-register shows the month and a leap year indicator. Of course, the watch has centrally mounted hands for the time and chronograph seconds. A tachymeter scale is also included for good measure.
A gem in the engine room
For the trio of 140th-anniversary watches, Breitling has rolled out the new in-house, chronometer-certified B19 automatic movement. The Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar displays this movement through a rear sapphire crystal. The 22K red gold rotor depicts the brand’s historic Montbrillant Manufactory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Côtes de Genève finishing is also visible on the topmost plate. The movement has a frequency of 28,800vph and an impressive power reserve of 96 hours. Breitling is known for its excellent in-house chronograph movements, but this was a surprise worthy of an anniversary.
A bold beauty on the wrist
I had the chance to spend ample time with the Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar at the Geneva Breitling Boutique. Of the three anniversary models, I expected to like this piece the least, but that wasn’t the case. Yes, it’s big and “in your face,” but it’s lovely. Breitling continues to impress with finishing and case construction. Despite a large case size, the watch curves nicely and conforms to the wrist.
For certain, a smaller size would be better for me, but anyone with a slightly larger (say, 7″) wrist could easily wear this watch. The other aspect that I liked was the rubber strap. It was comfortable, high quality, and dealt well with the substantial weight of the watch head.
Final thoughts
Breitling is making 140 examples of the Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar, each with a retail price of €55,000 / £48,000 / US$59,000. The production numbers and price alone mean they’re not aimed at everyone. That’s okay, though, because this watch accomplishes several key tasks. It shows that Breitling can play in the statement-watch game just as well as any of the larger players. Also, the movement bodes well for future developments and Breitling’s recent acquisition, Universal Genève. The fact that the watch wears so well and looks so good is icing on the cake.
For more information on the Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary, visit the official Breitling website.
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