Hands-On: The New Aquastar Airstar Chronograph

I confess that I look forward to anything Rick Marei and his team create. Recent offerings from Aquastar and Synchron have all been exciting, well made, and relatively affordable. Now the new Aquastar Airstar Chronograph further ups the approachability ante. This is certainly one of the cooler recent releases.

There are a lot of ’60s skin-diver-like watches on the market at different price points. Aquastar, however, feels like the brand with the greatest right to use the style for modern renditions. After all, the brand was among the earliest adopters of the utilitarian, slab-sided case design in the late ’50s for the Model 60. Aquastar also produced chronographs using the same case style, and these were not limited to the quirky but collectible Deepstar. Another highly desirable model, the Airstar, was made beginning in 1964. This watch inspires today’s new release as it celebrates its 60th brithday, but as we’ll see, the modern version isn’t a direct copy.

A vintage Aquastar Airstar  — Image: Bachmann & Scher

The original Aquastar Airstar

The vintage Aquastar Airstar took a more traditional approach to styling than the Deepstar. It used the beloved Valjoux 72 movement and was housed within a 38mm stainless steel skin-diver-style case. The “air” reference in the name leads us to believe this was aimed at pilots instead of divers. An internal tachymeter scale and bidirectional 60-minute bezel support the use case. Little is known about the production quantity of this model, but the commonly believed number is around 200. Consequently, these pieces are expensive at roughly €10,000.

The new Airstar

We can immediately see that the new Airstar is related to the original but boasts significant changes. Notably, the watch is black thanks to DLC coating. Also, there are two sub-dials instead of three. So for those who harbor disdain for straight-up reissues, your dinner is served!

The new Airstar is a 39mm black DLC-coated stainless steel chronograph with a 49mm lug-to-lug measurement. The case stands at 14mm thick, but we need to add another 2mm for the domed sapphire crystal. Moan away at the total, but as we’ll soon see, this watch defies its specs and wears like a dream. Moving on, the unidirectional 60-minute bezel features 120 clicks, a white-filled scale, and a Super-LumiNova-filled round pip. While the case is matte on all visible sides, the bezel, pushers, and crown face are polished.

A familiar movement, the Valjoux 7753

Before moving on to the dial aesthetic, let’s discuss the movement. Rather than using a more expensive La Joux-Perret caliber, Rick opted for the tried-and-true Valjoux 7753 to lend the Airstar a dose of affordability and serviceability. The 7753 automatic movement is from the same family as the 7750 and has 48 hours of power reserve.

A well-laid-out dial

The choice of the 7753 allows for either a two- or three-register chronograph. However, the register spacing and the smaller dial size make a two-register layout more attractive and legible in this application. The all-black dial has a mix of white printing and ecru Super-LumiNova, and the attractive Airstar signature makes its return below the center of the watch. Some will disagree with using an aged-looking lume, but it keeps the watch from looking too cold and clinical. Regarding the layout, the same tachymeter scale outlines the dial as the original. Also, note the reuse of the three stripes of lume at 12 o’clock. Attractive lume-filled syringe hands with white borders show the hours and minutes. Functionally, the sub-dials show running seconds and a 30-minute counter. All told, it’s a clean-looking, purposeful watch that’s easy to read.

Lovely on the wrist

I’ve had the chance to wear the Airstar for over two months and have put it through its paces. The watch has been in the pool, accompanied me on trips to the city, and has been used as an all-important grill timer. It’s nice to have a functional watch with a 200m water resistance rating that can handle everything and look so good while doing it. I’m not normally a huge fan of DLC, but the compact appearance of this piece and wearable size have convinced me otherwise. Besides, I have enough bare-steel chronographs.

When it comes to fit, Aquastar has once again created a case that conforms fantastically well to the wrist. The 7753 does add some thickness to the overall design, but the watch does not feel like it porpoises on the supplied black Tropic strap. It’s not as lightweight or small as a time-only Aquastar, but the Airstar doesn’t feel overly weighty or ungainly. For people with an average-sized wrist, this watch should fit perfectly.

Pricing and final thoughts

The new Aquastar Airstar is a limited edition of 300 pieces and ready for delivery. The price is US$1,890 during the launch period (with a regular price of $2,790 if it fails to sell out). In 2024, that represents excellent value for a chronograph that feels expertly constructed and offers nicer finishing than other similarly priced models. The DLC may not appeal to everyone, but I think it can be versatile, especially when paired with some of the optional leather straps that Aquastar will offer. Overall, the Airstar is a surprising release from the brand after its recent run of regular stainless steel watches, and I enjoy it.

For more information on the new Airstar Chronograph, visit the official Aquastar site.