Hands-On: The New Awake Sơn Mài Collection Makes Métiers d’Art Accessible To All
Last month, I met Lilian Thibault, the founder of Awake Watches, at an event in London. We’re used to the brand’s sporty, frequently space-themed limited editions. However, I saw an upcoming release that was very different. The new Sơn Mài collection brings two forms of Métiers d’Art together in an affordable package.
Since its launch in 2018, Awake has made some fun timepieces. Colorful space-related watches came in 2022, and more sedate solid-dial models joined in 2023. All of these watches use a similar beefy, sporty case. The Sơn Mài collection, however, is a decidedly different direction for Awake. The watches introduce a new case design and a new aesthetic. Openly, I’ve enjoyed prior Awake releases, but these new models are a noticeable step up in terms of finishing and attention to detail.
The Awake Sơn Mài collection
Awake’s Sơn Mài debuts with a focus on Métiers d’Art. We’ve been hearing this French term, which translates to “crafts,” a lot lately. With a resurgence of stone, enamel, and other artistic dial finishes, brands are doubling down on finding distinct options. For Awake, this literally means bringing two types of finishing to the dials. In this case, the techniques are from Vietnam, and Awake works with artisans in the country to complete the work.
The Sơn Mài watches feature a base of silver leaf gilding. Then, the dials are lacquered with purple (Amethyst), green (Emerald), red (Lava), or blue (Outre Bleu) hues, and artisans sand the lacquer to create a smooth finish. This sanded lacquer also gives these watches their Vietnamese name, Sơn Mài. Awake sent us the Outre Bleu and Amethyst models for a hands-on review.
The specs
The new Sơn Mài pieces feature 39mm cases made of fully recycled 316L stainless steel. Because of the uncluttered dial design, the watches wear larger despite the moderate 45.6mm lug-to-lug measurement. They also have an 11.8mm thickness (including the sapphire crystal) and a 50m depth rating.
In a move that should delight some buyers, Awake has partnered with Delugs for the gray nubuck straps with black rubber lining. A pin buckle with hollow sides shows a new level of detail from Awake.
The La Joux-Perret G101
Microbrands specializing in affordable watches have several options for movement suppliers. Awake has chosen the increasingly popular La Joux-Perret G101 automatic with 68 hours of power reserve. The movement has a frequency of 28,800vph, which makes it a nice upgrade over typical ETA 2824 clones. I own several watches with this caliber and have found them reliable and accurate. The Sơn Mài shows off the movement through the sapphire window of the case back. Basic decoration on the tungsten rotor is present, but the movement holder looks great with a guilloché-like pattern and individual numbering.
Inspecting the dials
The new Sơn Mài dials are impressive in person. Each one is glossy and rich with a liquid-like surface. The underlying silver gilding is unique to each dial, displaying different patterns and folds. Indeed, we saw the various stages of the dial in person, and the silver is incredibly thin and delicate. The combination of two techniques adds a level of visual detail not possible if each technique was done independently.
But there’s more. One of my favorite aspects is the application of Super-LumiNova. From a distance, the polished hands and pointed hour indices look simple. A closer examination reveals a thick, solid layer of BGW9 underneath all of these components. Darkness transforms the watches into neon street signs because of the luminous outlines. The soft blue brightness is noticeable, and the shapes are clearly defined. Overall, the luminous design is a nice modern touch.
On the wrist
Awake has done a nice job alternating brushed and polished surfaces on this new case design. Again, it’s a classy upgrade over prior models and hopefully shows the brand’s direction.
The case is comfortable on the wrist and works well as a daily watch, especially with its moderate thickness. As mentioned, the relatively spacious dial, the polished top surfaces of the case, and the 20mm strap make the watch look larger. The size and the bright luminous material keep it from appearing too dressy. Still, I wouldn’t class the Sơn Mài as a sports watch. Think of it as a refreshing handmade alternative to other brightly colored dials on the market.
Pricing and availability
Surprisingly, the Awake Sơn Mài pieces are priced at €1,950, which means that buyers can take delivery of a beautifully crafted watch at a more than reasonable price. Also, the first 50 pieces of each color will be numbered. However, this isn’t a limited edition as all models will be part of the regular collection. I stated it before, and I think it’s worth restating that these watches are a step forward in both finishing and style versus previous Awake models. They seem more mature, and I like how they incorporate artisanal skills in the dials.
For more information on the new Sơn Mài collection, visit the official Awake website.
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