Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C12 Loco Shows White-Hot Ambition

Christopher Ward’s latest flagship pushes the envelope of design and mechanics. Put simply, this is a big deal for the brand and the industry as a whole. The C12 Loco proves that higher-end watchmaking can be found at a more accessible price point. I spent a week with the new C12 Loco in its striking white-dial, white-rubber config to see if this most ambitious iteration lives up to the hype.

The Twelve grows up

The C12 Loco represents a confident evolution of Christopher Ward’s Twelve design. At first glance, the changes in the case architecture are subtle but significant. Notably, the crown guards are gone, giving the mid-case a cleaner, uninterrupted profile. It’s a sleek move that lets your eye appreciate the flowing lines of the dodecagonal bezel unimpeded. Speaking of that bezel, it still has 12 facets as a nod to the collection’s name, but it now flows more naturally into the case. The refined proportions and transitions mean that the bezel no longer looks like a separate “cap” sitting atop the mid-case. Instead, it melds organically with it. This was likely a deliberate tweak to address feedback and further differentiate the Loco as the collection’s flagship model. As a result, it creates an elegant cohesion that, in my opinion, even the well-regarded original Twelve didn’t quite achieve.

It’s clear the brand poured much thought into refining rather than reinventing. The Loco looks immediately recognizable as part of the Twelve family, yet it’s more mature and distilled. The proportions are on point, with a 41mm diameter, a 47.5mm length, and a 13.7mm total thickness. Also, while the Loco is thicker than the time-only Twelve due to its complex movement, the revamped case tricks the eye, making it seem slimmer. The result is a watch with a surprisingly low profile for its mechanical heft.

But how is the C12 Loco on the wrist?

From the moment I fastened the C12 Loco to my wrist, it was evident that this watch is designed to be worn, not just admired, despite how easy the latter is to do. The 41mm case size and the downward slope of the integrated central “lugs” allow the Loco to sit securely and comfortably. For reference, I have a 6.8″ (17.25cm) wrist.

The lovely new rubber strap with Christopher Ward’s Bader Buckle is a significant factor in that comfort. This strap is specially built for the Loco series; it’s thinner and integrates perfectly into the case flanks. The Bader Buckle deployant clasp allows for a keeper-less strap. Everything tucks neatly out of sight, providing a super clean look. My one minor niggle is that the folding section of the clasp is quite long. I prefer my deployant clasps to be on the shorter side whenever possible.

On the wrist, the white Loco caught many admiring glances and a few questions from curious friends and family. Despite all the high-tech flair, it still comes across as refined and not overly flashy. I will admit that my taste leans towards the black-dial variant of the Loco, as I generally prefer the added contrast and depth a dark skeletonized movement provides. However, after a week with this white model, I’ve grown fond of its unique charm. The white-dial version has a clean, almost architectural appeal; it showcases the structure of the movement in a very airy way, and the bold, black-edged hands and indexes stand out crisply against the white backdrop, so legibility remains excellent.

Symmetry and harmony

Flip the C12 Loco over or gaze into its “dial,” and the real magic reveals itself: this watch is all about the movement. Christopher Ward has outfitted the Loco with its new caliber CW-003, a high-end mechanical engine that evolved from SH21 but was entirely re-engineered to suit the C12 Loco’s brief. It’s visible from both front and rear thanks to the open-worked dial and display case back, and it’s been executed with a level of symmetry and finishing far beyond what we’ve seen in prior CW models or, indeed, at this watch’s price point.

The first thing you notice is how balanced the dial-side layout is. Open-worked or skeletonized watches can often look chaotic or “too busy,” making it hard to read the time or discern what’s what. It’s obvious that CW anticipated this issue and designed the Loco’s movement bridges and dial elements to maximize coherence. The architecture is symmetrical along the vertical axis, with the time sub-dial, balance wheel, and escapement arranged to give a pleasing mirror-image effect from top to bottom. I’ve seen other skeleton pieces 2–3 times the price that aren’t this legible or harmonious.

The CW-003 is a righteous flex

Diving into the technical side, the manual-winding CW-003 movement is where Christopher Ward flexes its horological muscles. The brand describes this caliber as its most advanced ever, and it’s not hard to see why. For one, the CW-003 features the brand’s first free-sprung balance wheel. The switch to a free-sprung balance means the Loco’s rate is regulated by tiny screws on the balance wheel’s rim. You’d typically find this type of balance reserved for higher-end watchmaking.

Two parallel mainspring barrels power the C12 Loco, giving it a hefty six-day (144-hour) power reserve on a full wind. Long power reserves have become a Christopher Ward signature, and here, it’s not just about convenience but also symmetry. The twin barrels sit above each other in the movement layout, contributing to that balanced view.

The finishing of the CW-003 movement truly elevates the Loco into a different league. Christopher Ward worked to achieve a level of decoration that, frankly, I perhaps unfairly hadn’t expected from the brand. The hand-polished bridges (yes!) showcase polished bevels that gleam as they catch the light cleanly and precisely. From the back, the view is just as delightful. I’ll let the images speak for themselves.

A new apex puts refinement over revolution

After spending several days with the C12 Loco, it’s clear to me that this model represents the zenith of Christopher Ward’s Twelve collection to date. I’d argue the Loco surpasses even the impressive Twelve X from last year in overall design maturity and technical prowess. The Twelve X was already a bold move, but the C12 Loco keeps what made that watch special while packaging it in a more refined exterior and with further-elevated mechanics.

The result is a watch that doesn’t feel like a novelty or an outlier in the collection but, rather, the rightful flagship of the Twelve family. By stripping away unnecessary flourishes and sharpening the case architecture, CW has made the Loco feel like the most distilled, pure expression of the Twelve concept to date.

When a brand can deliver a launch of this quality, it makes me question the need for gimmicky marketing stunts that only serve to cheapen the message. I’m talking, of course, about the recent Mission to Maidenhead campaign during British Watchmakers Day — a clear dig at Omega. Come on, gents, you’re better than that. And this watch proves it. The brand stands tall on its merits, with no need for parody or provocation. Hopefully, that was just a one-off marketing misstep…

Does the C12 Loco justify its price?

All this excellence comes at a price, of course. What did you expect? The C12 Loco in steel on the white rubber strap costs £3,795 / US$4,595 / €4,950. If you want the stainless steel bracelet with built-in micro-adjustment, you’re looking at a smidge more at £3,995 / US$4,825 / €5,205. Let’s put it into perspective. Within Christopher Ward’s lineup, the Loco sits above the standard Twelve and around the same as the Twelve X. It’s even a notch above CW’s acclaimed C1 Bel Canto chiming watch, which cost £2,995 when it debuted.

Comparing externally, what else can ~£3.8K get you in the broader market? If you look at big Swiss brands, there is not much offering a similar price-to-spec ratio. An Omega Seamaster or Tudor Pelagos in this range will give you an excellent but mass-produced movement and a solid sports-watch build. Still, that’s nothing approaching the open-worked, hand-finished spectacle of the C12 Loco. Independent brands and microbrands offer a few interesting options but often use outsourced movements or simpler finishing.

Final thoughts

Still, the inevitable question for potential buyers is whether or not the C12 Loco justifies its price tag. Well, you must consider what’s on offer — an in-house, six-day, COSC-grade movement with high-end finishing, a genuinely intricate design, and limited-production flair. Christopher Ward suggested the Loco was “the most advanced watch the company has ever made.”​ Having experienced it, I agree that this shows CW operating at the bleeding edge of what it can do. Viewed in this light, the Loco starts to look like a bit of a bargain for what it is.

If you’re already inclined toward what the Loco offers, it’ll be hard to find anything comparable without spending significantly more. Christopher Ward has carved out a niche here, and, in my view, the brand has hit the mark. The C12 Loco makes a strong case that it earns its keep in pounds, dollars, or euros. That is, indeed, worth the price of admission in my book. In fact, my time with this watch convinced me to open my wallet, and I’ve placed my order (black dial on the bracelet, in case you were wondering). If that doesn’t speak volumes, I don’t know what does. So, with all this in mind, run, don’t walk, to the Christopher Ward website. Orders open at 16:00 CEST tomorrow, with the first batch of deliveries slated for September of this year. The wait begins!