Hands-On: The New Depancel Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm

Depancel has been inspired by 1970s car-racing designs since 2018. The new Allure Chronograph MecaQ in its reduced 36mm size extends this connection even further. Not only are the red and orange hues found on the three sub-dials and the tachymetric scale quintessentially 1970s, but the integrated bracelet also reinforces this feeling.

Depancel Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm

Let’s start with a bit of history. Depancel was founded in 2018 by Frenchman Clément Meynier, a former nuclear research engineer. Depancel is the contraction of the names Delage, Panhard, and Facel Vega, three French manufacturers whose cars were made for the pleasure of driving. Inspired by their philosophy and creativity, Depancel wants to share these values in watchmaking. Depancel watches are designed, assembled, and subjected to quality control in France. The brand started using a direct-to-consumer model and is closely connected with its dedicated online and offline community. Clément Meynier recently decided to accelerate the brand’s development with a business model centered around two collections and a distribution split of 60% online and 40% physical stores.

’70s motorsport and modern-day watchmaking

The Depancel Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm is an excellent example of a marriage between 1970s motorsport and modern-day watchmaking. Everything, including the shape, size, and colors, breathes motorsport, while the solid feeling of the watch immediately shows its up-to-date quality. With a 36mm diameter, the new Allure Chronograph returned to a typical measurement of 50 years ago. Now that smaller-sized watches are becoming increasingly popular, the Allure 36mm suits men, women, and youngsters alike. Also, the design of the integrated bracelet adds to wearability on wrists of many sizes and shapes. Besides looking good, the match of motorsport and watchmaking reflects the brand’s ties to the automotive world. Depancel is present at iconic events, such as Rétromobile in Paris and Epoqu’auto in Lyon, and is a partner of the Masters Historic Championship at Silverstone.

Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm highlights

Taking the watch out of its effectively small box, its shape, size, solidness, and faded vintage color scheme all ask for attention. Relatively small in size at first, on the wrist, the watch and integrated bracelet blend in perfectly. It sits on the wrist like it has always been there. The apparent widening of the bracelet into the tonneau shape of the watch’s case seems organic. But the round, flat sapphire crystal immediately makes the essential part of this instrument clear — the dial and hands of the chronograph. The Allure shows the time via minute, 12-hour, and 24-hour hands, while the chronograph shows elapsed seconds and minutes. The maximum time the chronograph indicates is 60 minutes, and luckily, there’s no date window. A ticking sub-seconds hand also indicates the watch is running.

Tri-compax

Depancel promotes the Allure as a tri-compax chronograph. However, describing it as “tri-compax” does not seem historically correct, as Dave taught us in his article here. The Universal Genève Tri-Compax was initially named after its three functions — calendar, chronograph, and moon phases. Today’s usage of the term is far more logical, though, and too firmly established in our contemporary watch lexicon to disregard its meaning for the initial one.

The elephant in the room

Although Depancel mainly uses hand-wound or automatic mechanical calibers, the brand occasionally switches to quartz. The first time I saw a quartz movement in a Depancel watch was in 2022 with the Serie-A Stradale. Like that watch, the new Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm houses a Seiko Instruments Inc. VK6X caliber. The good thing about these mecaquartz calibers is that the chronograph’s seconds hand is mechanically driven and has a soft sweep like classic ’70s chronos. While the VK64 has no seconds hand ticking away to reveal the quartz heart, on the VK63 in the new Allure Chronograph MecaQ, there’s a ticking seconds hand at the 6 o’clock position. Luckily, there aren’t any distracting hash marks in that sub-dial; it only shows the text “Motor Racing Instrument” in faded orange and red hues.

Advantages of mecaquartz

Of course, mechanical calibers are attractive, but quartz — specifically, mecaquartz — also has advantages. As most of us will know, a mecaquartz movement uses quartz technology for timekeeping combined with a mechanical module for the chronograph. It’s a hybrid movement offering functions that resemble a mechanical chronograph, including a sweeping chronograph seconds hand and quick return to zero. The VK63 delivers the best of both worlds — the accuracy of quartz for timekeeping and the satisfying mechanical feel when engaging the chronograph. Quartz was a relevant solution that the most prestigious manufacturers embraced in the 1970s and early 1980s, so it is also adequate for a timepiece inspired by this era. Specifically for the Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm, another essential point is the relatively small size of a mecaquartz caliber. It allows for a smaller and slimmer watch than most mechanical chronograph movements.

What else?

Now that I have highlighted the Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm’s main points of attention, what else is noteworthy? First, the chronograph has a combined pulsation and tachymeter scale. While the first quarter of the scale can determine your heart rate, the other three quarters can indicate a speed from 240 down to 60 km/h. The second thing to mention is the hexagonal crown with an inset red-orange ring. This standard feature of Depancel chronographs offers excellent grip while adding a stylish element to the watch. Third, there’s the little inlaid nameplate on one side of the case. This feature sometimes divides opinions, but it is beautifully executed and refined on the Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm. Last but not least are the polished chamfers on the mostly brushed watch case. Together with a polished ring encircling the crystal, they add to the distinctive retro-elegant character of the watch.

Conclusion and pricing

With the Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm, Depancel has added a serious contender to the vast world of mecaquartz chronographs. In terms of design and construction, it stands out and, in many ways, resembles more expensive watches than its price suggests. At €595 (EU taxes included), the Depancel Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm is a proposition that motorsport-loving watch fans cannot neglect. The Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm will be available from November 15th, 2024, directly through Depancel’s website or at one of the brand’s retailers.

What is your opinion of the Depancel Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm? Don’t hesitate to let us know in the comments below!

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