Hands-On With The Beautiful And Stylish Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold

As always, Geneva Watch Days this year showcased many great watches to discover. One of the highlights for quite a few people was the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold. The second timepiece from the revived Daniel Roth brand builds on the first release from last year. As I explained in the watch’s introduction article, the rose gold version of the Tourbillon seemed even more stylish than last year’s Tourbillon Souscription. Most of all, it is proof that the resurgence of Daniel Roth was achieved with class and great care.

Only a few weeks ago, I ended my introduction article wishing to experience the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold on the wrist. I was curious whether the rose gold version was the better of the two models released thus far. On top of that, and maybe even more importantly, I was curious to find out whether my love for Daniel Roth would also be revived. I have had a special place in my heart for Daniel Roth’s creations ever since I got into watches in the early 2000s. The combination of a super recognizable style and Roth’s watchmaking wizardry has always intrigued me. As you will understand, I was happy to learn more.

The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold in short

Let’s start with a quick recap of the watch in question. If you want the full rundown, I suggest you read the introduction article from two weeks ago. In this one, I will focus on the experience of seeing both Daniel Roth Tourbillons next to each other. Additionally, it is fascinating to talk about the small but significant updates that play a huge part in making the new Daniel Roth watches a joy to wear. There is so much more that went into this project than just bringing back a name; it is an exercise in design and watchmaking brilliance done right.

The new Tourbillon Rose Gold has a 5N rose gold case measuring 35.5mm wide, 38.6mm long, and 9.2mm thick. The case respects the original design of the brilliant double-ellipse case that I fell in love with in the early 2000s. By that time, the case design had already been on the market since its introduction in the late 1980s.

Compared to the original design, the LVMH designers have optimized the case to sit better on the wrist by placing the lugs at a downward angle. They also slightly updated the design by shifting the characteristic “ridge” to the middle of the flank. On the original case, it was positioned on two-thirds of the flank.

Using influences from the past to create something better

While the design still perfectly represents the original’s character and flair, it has been optimized in great detail to suit modern times and bring greater comfort. Everyone from the Fratello team who tried on the watch was impressed by the size, proportions, and fit.

Despite its relatively small size, the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold has abundant wrist presence. The relatively large 20mm lug spacing and beautiful light brown calfskin strap contribute significantly to this. Furthermore, the improved ergonomics ensure that the watch sits wonderfully on the wrist.

The details on the dial tell a story

The LVMH designers did a fantastic job implementing the dial designs of the original Daniel Roth Tourbillon watches. The early versions of the Double Face Tourbillon ref. C187 from the late 1980s had silver or gray dials finished with Clous de Paris guilloché. This explains why last year’s edition featured a yellow gold dial with the same pattern.

Later models featured a linear guilloché pattern, which returns to the new rose gold model. While the original dials from the 1980s and ’90s were mostly silver and gray, the new rose gold dial adds an extra layer of style. I think it looks better than the dials from the vintage versions.

When it comes to picking a favorite from the two new models, I stand by my initial pick of the new rose gold version. The guillochage en ligne feels a little more lively, and I like how the rose gold dial and case make the watch feel a little more contemporary.

Additionally, I prefer the black hands and Roman numerals over the blue hands and markers of last year’s version in yellow gold. But having said that, I was way more impressed by last year’s version than I could have imagined. The level of detail in real life is so much more impressive than in any picture.

As an admirer of the style and the incredible movement (which we’ll get to in a second), for me, it is not about choosing. Both watches complement each other perfectly and tell two stories firmly rooted in Daniel Roth’s history. They show the great dedication and eye for detail that went into reviving the brand.

The Daniel Roth DR001 caliber

Further proof of that comes in the form of the Daniel Roth DR001. As I explained in the introduction article, it is the brainchild of LVMH master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. The 206-piece manual-winding movement operates at 21,600vph, has 19 jewels, and offers 80 hours of power reserve. The DR001 was specifically developed to fit the new gold double-ellipse case. As a result, it is a joy to see the movement through the display case back. This is another change from last year’s model, which came with an all-gold case back.

But the new rose gold model allows us to admire the movement in all its glory. Seeing it up close reveals the great dedication that went into the development, production, decoration, and manual finishing, which all took place at La Fabrique du Temps. The level of refinement is impressive. It’s one thing to see a mix of finishes, but the manual finishing is impressive and tasteful at the same time.

The magic of a well-designed tourbillon watch

But the magic is not limited to the back of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold. It continues on the dial side. The tourbillon cage looks stunning with the three black hands that indicate the seconds on the three 20-second scales. It is a fun way of displaying the seconds. But it is also where the dial and the movement work together flawlessly.

I am usually not the biggest fan of tourbillons because they tend to break up the dial design. You could make a case that the complication is what makes the watches. While I technically agree, integrating a tourbillon into a design remains a visual challenge. But that’s where the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold excels. The combination of elements works. The tourbillon construction has room to breathe and connects playfully with the seconds indications. Those three scales flow nicely into the dial indicating the hours and minutes. It is such a beautifully designed watch with a stunning case and an ingenious dial.

Final thoughts on the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold

Both the original Daniel Roth Double Face Tourbillon and this new Tourbillon Rose Gold are my favorite tourbillon watches. As you will understand, seeing Daniel Roth return makes me incredibly happy. And the way that LVMH has gone about reviving it is nothing short of wonderful. As a result, the new watches tastefully pay homage to the originals, but they have been improved with an updated case, a thinner movement (resulting in a thinner watch), and two beautiful dials. Add the immaculate finishing and the perfect pairing with the brown calfskin straps, and you will understand why the new Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold was one of the most talked-about watches of Geneva Watch Days.

With a limited production capacity of 50 pieces annually, getting your hands on one of the new Tourbillon Rose Gold versions can be challenging. Because I have zero doubt that these watches find their way to collectors. The new Daniel Roth Tourbillon models perfectly prove why seeing the Daniel Roth brand return is glorious.

The way La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton has approached this displays great vision and dedication, and that demands respect. If the initial press info wasn’t already proof of that, seeing the actual watches from up close made that even clearer to me. It makes the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold one of my favorite watches of this year.

Visit the brand’s official website to learn more about the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold. In the comments section, let us know whether you think this new rose gold version tops last year’s yellow gold Tourbillon Souscription.