Hands-On With The Latest Grand Seiko European Limited Editions

Last week, I met with the Grand Seiko UK team at Japan House in South Kensington, London. The brand occupied a space at the cultural center and brought the latest European Limited Editions. The lights were bright, and the antireflective crystals worked overtime, but we managed a few decent shots.

Earlier this month, we previewed the latest Grand Seiko European Limited Editions. The rose gold SBGY040 and stainless steel SBGW321 models are inspired by koi ponds. While I wasn’t in a Japanese garden, the serene surroundings of Japan House were an appropriate location for these watches.

The new Grand Seiko European Limited Editions

Let’s briefly recap the latest Grand Seiko releases. The SBGY040 is a 38.5mm Elegance model in 18K rose gold. It features a dark blue dial with a wave pattern and uses the manual-winding 9R31 Spring Drive caliber. This movement has a 72-hour power reserve and is accurate to within ±1 second per day. Just 20 units of the SBGY040 will be produced and sold exclusively at European Grand Seiko boutiques or online. The price is €31,100 / £26,890.

The SBGW321 is a 36.5mm stainless steel watch with a red dial inspired by koi scales. This Heritage model uses the well-known 9S64 that claims an accuracy of +5/-3 seconds per day. Grand Seiko will produce 300 of these and will make them available at European boutiques, online, and authorized dealers. The price is more approachable at €6,100 / £5,920.

Hands-on notes

Both watches were impressive in person. It sounds like a broken record, but Grand Seiko truly understands how to make a beautifully textured dial. On this day, I saw two with distinct patterns and hues. The steel SBGW321 was a favorite for several reasons. The 36.5mm case fits perfectly and impresses with its sharp angles and mirror-like polishing.

The dial is also different live compared to photos. It has a darker raspberry-like tone, but it’s not overly metallic. At some angles, it reminded me of Japanese lacquerware. Also, the small ridges within each alternating rectangular area of the dial are worth viewing with a loupe. The Grand Seiko UK team was also kind enough to set up a microscope, HD camera, and large screen to show the details.

Due to its domed crystal, the SBGY040 was infinitely more difficult to photograph under the venue’s bright lights. Still, the dark blue wave dial was equally as attractive. The rose gold case also made the 38.5mm C-case wear smaller than the steel pieces in the Elegance collection. The dial color and case material made the SBGY040 feel like the more luxurious option among the two European Limited Editions.

Whereas the SBGW321 has a traditional solid stainless steel case back with an engraved Grand Seiko lion, the SBGY040 shows off the 9R31 Spring Drive movement. Even if it is essentially one plate, with all of the jewel settings, it’s still nice to view. Plus, there’s a power reserve indicator near the barrel. Incidentally, the models I saw were all non-runners set to 10:08:42.

Thank you to the folks at Grand Seiko UK for their hospitality. The latest European Limited Editions are worth a look when they arrive at boutiques in November. For now, you can find additional information on the SBGW321 here or the SBGY040 here.