Hands-On With The Mk II Fulcrum 39 Date That You Might Recognize From Somewhere…
Mk II first released its Fulcrum dive watch in 2013. This is nothing spectacular in itself, although it is remarkable to realize that it was 12 years ago. The inaugural model was a 42mm dive watch inspired by the great military watches of the 1970s. The new Mk II Fulcrum 39 is an optimized version of that initial model. The most important update is a smaller case that’s more in line with its ’70s inspiration. It makes this Fulcrum a very tempting offering if you like the classic dive watches from that era. It’s time to find out more!
Let’s first address the elephant in the room. As with all watches, our pre-programmed watch enthusiast brains will first go through the watch Rolodex looking for visual references. When it comes to the design of the Mk II Fulcrum 39, identifying the first reference is easy. The legendary Rolex “MilSub” Submariners clearly inspired the case, bezel, and hands of the Fulcrum 39. It’s a look that many watch fans will love. But that’s not where it ends. When I saw the dial and the fully bead-blasted case and bracelet, the first watch that came to my mind was the brilliant titanium IWC GST Aquatimer. Seemingly, then, the Fulcrum 39 takes inspiration from two great dive watches. While the IWC is a late-’90s diver, I believe it serves as a visual reference.
The story of the Mk II Fulcrum 39 Date
As many of you know, Rolex specially created the so-called “MilSub” (Military Submariner) in the 1970s for the British Ministry of Defense (MoD). After the brand supplied the MoD with its Submariner ref. 6538 in the late 1950s, there was a stint when the MoD preferred the Omega Seamaster 300. Therefore, it took until 1971 before Rolex and the MoD started working together again. Rolex produced three MilSub references over time. The first was the ref. 5513, the second was the double-stamped ref. 5513/5517, and finally, there was the ref. 5517. The MilSubs have become famous among Rolex collectors and are among the most sought-after models because of their story and rarity.
Mk II quite clearly took these pieces of unobtainium as the inspiration for its Fulcrum diver. Sure, the brand makes the idea a bit more general in its description, but the MilSub vibes on this watch are strong. Just to be complete, the brand describes the inspiration for the watch as follows: “The Fulcrum 39 represents a fusion and reinterpretation of design elements from iconic watches US Special Forces soldiers would have been exposed to in either Vietnam or in training with their UK counterparts.” In all fairness, the dial is different than that of a MilSub, and the bead-blasted finish brings a very utilitarian overall look.
The specs of the Mk II Fulcrum 39 Date
Let’s go over some of the details of the Mk II Fulcrum 39 Date. The watch has a 39.5mm stainless steel case with a 47mm lug-to-lug and a 14.1mm total thickness. That last measurement is partly the result of the double-domed sapphire crystal that adds vintage charm. The case has drilled lugs and comes with a 120-click unidirectional bezel with a black aluminum insert. Mk II offers two options for the bezel insert. The first is a 12-hour insert, and the second is the classic 60-minute insert that we received on our review model.
Combined with the case and bezel is a matte black dial with large Super-LumiNova BGW9 markers at the cardinal points. The one at 12 o’clock has the classic large triangular marker, whereas the other three are rectangular markers. The remaining hour markers are smaller but also luminescent.
On the dial’s perimeter, you will find a modest white minute track with slightly thicker markers for every five minutes. At 4:30, you will find a date window, which is another optional element. You can also opt for the dateless version if you prefer that. Completing the look are the characteristic sword-style hands that are typical of the MilSubs.
Spot-on proportions
The watch comes with a bead-blasted Oyster-style bracelet that features the familiar NodeX clasp with a toolless micro-adjustment mechanism. The bracelet has a nice 20–16mm taper from the end links to the clasp, giving it an elegant look.
Overall, the watch looks very nicely proportioned, and the matte bead-blasted finish gives it a proper tool-watch aesthetic that will certainly attract fans. I love how Mk II took care of the smallest details to create a tool watch that not only looks good but also offers great comfort, as we are about to find out.
Inside the case, Mk II uses the 24-jewel Miyota 9015 for the date-equipped version we had in the office. It operates at 28,800vph and has a 42-hour power reserve. The brand equips the movement with a custom-printed date wheel to fit the design properly. Additionally, the movement offers a quick-set date and hacking function.
For the non-date version, the brand equips the watch with the Miyota 90S5, which has the same specs as the 9015 but without the date function. Both movements have an officially stated accuracy of ｰ10/＋30 seconds per day but are known to run quite a bit more accurately in real life.
Wearing the Mk II Fulcrum 39 Date
From the moment I got the watch out of the box, I knew wearing it would be great. The size and proportions are right in my sweet spot, and the watch feels very nicely made. But before I could start wearing it, I had to size the bracelet. Fortunately, the links have single-headed screws, so it was super easy to take out the necessary links, and I was good to go. I was lucky enough not to have to extend the micro-adjuster, although I did play with it a little bit during the week I wore the watch. It gave me a good idea of how easy it is to size the bracelet perfectly.
Once on the wrist, the Fulcrum 39 presents itself as a no-nonsense tool watch firmly rooted in military history. I have never been a huge fan of the sword-style hands, but they sure are practical in telling the time. On top of that, I think that Mk II did a clever thing by pairing them with rectangular markers, which match them better than the round markers of the Rolex MilSub. The one thing I didn’t like much was the 4:30 date window. But Mk II has buyers covered with the no-date version, which is another clever decision.
It’s hard to deny how good the Fulcrum 39 is
After getting some first impressions, I had some time to wear the watch properly. A full week of wearing it gave me a good feeling for the things I like about the Fulcrum. And I can say there is a lot to like. First off, the watch is very well made. It is sturdy, it sits nicely on the wrist, and the bracelet is great. Knowing that the price is just under US$1,000, it is right up there in terms of quality with the best offerings for the money. Considering how quickly the quality has gone up among the affordable microbrands, it is nice to realize that Mk II is among the best.
When putting the watch on the wrist, the NodeX clasp immediately stands out. We have seen it used on the Nodus Contrail GMT and the Vero Open Water models, and it is fantastic. Sure, it is a bit funny how the modern, angular clasp isn’t in sync with the rounded style of the case and bracelet, but this was never a big issue for me. However, one thing I wasn’t a fan of after wearing the watch for a bit was the fully bead-blasted finish.
The finish is very specific, and you have to like it
First, I like the look of a tool watch, but I also love the visual contrast of brushed/bead-blasted and polished parts a lot. It brings a little pizzazz to a watch, and I missed that over time. Additionally, the finish did seem to pick up small scratches and markings fairly easily. While that is completely normal, the matte surfaces cause them to show rather quickly, and I am not the biggest fan of that. Don’t get me wrong; I understand why Mk II chose this finish, and it does emphasize the utilitarian feel, but it does come with its considerations.
Other than that, I had a good time wearing the Fulcrum 39 Date. As I already mentioned, the watch wears like a charm and shows what makes a Rolex (Mil)Sub so brilliant. Does that make this watch brilliant? I’ll leave that up to you. I think this is a fitting tribute, although I wasn’t as blown away by it as I was by the Nodus × Raven TrailTrekker Clay.
That watch takes obvious inspiration from the Rolex Explorer II but has plenty of distinguishing elements that make it different. With the Mk II Fulcrum 39, that is sometimes a bit less clear. Sure, the dial is different from the Rolex watches, but aesthetically, that is about it.
Final thoughts on the Mk II Fulcrum 39 Date
Other than that, I had a lot of fun wearing the Mk II Fulcrum 39 Date. As I said, it is a well-made watch that is perfectly proportioned to be a great daily wearer. At US$995, it is a watch that many microbrand fans will love. Especially if you are a fan of 1970s military watches and the Rolex MilSub in particular, you have to check this Fulcrum 39 out.
After the Stingray II Keroman that Vincent reviewed in 2023, this is another military-inspired dive watch that stands out immediately. It makes Mk II one of the go-to brands for fans of this genre. At just under a grand, it is hard to find a better-made vintage-inspired military watch, and that is a huge compliment.
The Fulcrum 39 Date comes in a super nice case, and you also get a cool magazine with the watch. It features a fictionalized story of the men who served in the military in the post-Vietnam era. The Fulcrum 39 is placed in that world as a potential watch that the men of the 39th Special Forces Detachment (Airborne), or Det-A, would wear during training missions.
It’s an extremely well-executed magazine that tells a nice story about the watch and adds to its context. It goes to show that Mk II truly goes the extra mile to bring its watches to life.
What do you think of the Mk II Fulcrum 39 Date? Don’t hesitate to let us know in the comments section below!
