Hands-On With The New Black And Multicolor Yema × Alain Silberstein Marine Limited Edition
When you think of Yema watches, you probably think of vintage-inspired divers, chronographs, and GMTs. But put all your preconceived notions aside for a moment because this new watch is something else. In collaboration with artist and watchmaker Alain Silberstein, the French brand introduces the Marine. It’s a limited edition of 500 pieces that doesn’t look like anything Yema has done before.
If you know a bit about Alain Silberstein, then you probably won’t be all that surprised when you look at the black and colorful Marine. But if you’re used to the usual offerings from Yema, you might need a minute to adjust. The only hint of vintage here might be the two crowns — the rest looks way more avant-garde and modern than anything the brand has shown us to date. Let’s take a closer look.
The Yema × Alain Silberstein Marine Limited Edition
I’ll start with the black DLC-coated Grade 5 titanium 40mm case because it might be my favorite feature. Its round shape is simple, yet it has a lot of character with its straight and round-tipped lugs. Those lugs connect to the case back, and the circular case lies on top of that base. It’s an interesting construction to look at. With its simple, effective, and straightforward shapes, it reminds me a bit of Playmobil toys. The case, including the double-domed sapphire crystal, is 13.2mm thick, and the lugs span 44.5mm from lug tip to lug tip.
Then, we get to the dial with Alain Silberstein’s signature primary colors. The base is all black, which makes the red, blue, and yellow pop even more than they already do by themselves. The hour hand is a big red triangle, while the minute hand has the shape of a giant arrow. I’m not sure if the graceful blue sea star on top matches the rest of the design, but it’s certainly another playful detail.
Marking each each hour is a thick piece of luminous material. The same columns also stand proudly on top of the internal bezel. All in all, it’s an amusing three-dimensional spectacle, especially in the dark.
Both crowns are of the screw-down kind. With the one at 2 o’clock, which features blue Cerakote, you can adjust the internal bezel to time your dive or whatever else. With the one at 4 o’clock, you can operate the Yema manufacture movement inside.
The Yema CMM.20 micro-rotor movement
Yema’s Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20 powers the Alain Silberstein limited edition. It features bridges with a black galvanic treatment, a red tungsten micro-rotor, and 33 jewels. Regarding accuracy, it runs between -3 and +7 seconds a day. In addition, it beats at a frequency of 28,800vph, offers a comfortable power reserve of 70 hours, and is resistant to magnetic fields. Through the sapphire crystal, you can take a look at the movement, which, in terms of design, perfectly matches the rest of the watch. However, to accentuate the marine theme, there are two big koi swimming around the sapphire crystal. They obstruct your view of the movement a bit, but they add another playful detail to the watch.
Another thing that refers to the diving capabilities of the watch is the rubber strap, which hugs the case nicely between the lugs. In addition to the black strap, you get a burgundy version, and both come with a black DLC-coated titanium deployant clasp with the same matte micro-blasted finish as on the case.
On the wrist
When I first saw this watch, it looked pretty chunky. The underside is entirely straight, and the straight lugs don’t angle down toward the wrist. But when I put the watch on my 17cm wrist, it actually felt quite good. For a dive watch, it isn’t very thick after all, and the 44.5mm lug-to-lug also helps in terms of wearability. Of course, the lightweight titanium also contributes to the comfort.
Overall, I also quite like the look of the Yema × Alain Silberstein Marine Limited Edition. It will most definitely attract some attention due to its bold construction and use of color. But it certainly isn’t too much, and you can still wear it daily. However, I don’t love the addition of the sea star to the handset and the koi to the exhibition case back. They don’t match the overall clean and funky aesthetic of the watch. The koi, in particular, seem like they come out of nowhere.
Still, I think this is an attractive watch to look at, and compared to Alain Silberstein’s other designs, I’d say it’s quite modest. So if you usually like his designs but they’re a bit too much for you, then this might be the perfect watch.
Available for pre-order as of October 21st
The Yema × Alain Silberstein Marine Limited Edition will be available for pre-order starting October 21st for €3,900. As mentioned, it is a limited edition of 500 pieces, all of which will have an individual number on the back. Yema expects delivery of the watches in February 2025.
What do you think of the Yema × Alain Silberstein Marine Limited Edition? Let me know in the comments section.
