Hands-On With The New Fleux FLX003 Dive Watch

Looking at many of the sensational, avant-garde, or astoundingly intricate horological creations today, it sometimes seems that there is less interest in timeless, classic watches. I’m not talking about watches that cost the same as a house but, rather, simple, straightforward watches for the everyday person and collector. I suspect, though, that there are people among us who appreciate these because there certainly are brands with offerings that fit the bill. And that is what we’re going to talk about today with the Fleux FLX003.

Based in Toronto, Canada, Fleux has already released two models, the FLX001 and FLX002, which we looked at a while back. These are two skin divers with the same proportions and specs but different dial and bezel designs. From what I gathered, these two models were well received but were, for some, neither here nor there. Either the Bund-style bezel (not invented by Unimatic, by the way) or the asymmetrical dial gave people some reservations. So Fleux listened and opted to endow its third model with a more classic design. It’s the type that should please most and offend none. 

Design inspiration: the Omega Seamaster 300 “Big Triangle” ref. 165.024

In last year’s article, I mentioned Fleux’s creator Ed Cho, whose design inspiration came from vintage skin divers. Ed was transparent, so I was too, and so I will be again today. For the FLX003, he drew inspiration from the 1960s Omega Seamaster 300 “Big Triangle” ref. 165.024, like this one but with a big inverted triangle at 12 on the dial.

Image: Amsterdam Watch Company

Notably, Arabic numerals at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions sit next to truncated triangles, but the enormous triangle at 12 is there in all its glory. The FLX003’s Broad Arrow handset calls back to other vintage Omega models from the Speedmaster line. With thickly printed baton-style hour markers everywhere else and small minute hash marks, the dial of the Fleux FLX003 is also legible. Aged “Old Radium” Super-LumiNova illuminates the hands and markers. 

The Fleux FLX003 diver

Skin divers were created for amateur divers and meant to be worn directly on the skin, not over a wetsuit. They used to be smaller and lighter, with less water resistance (though plenty of it for most adventurous people). Fleux preserved their spirit in the entire FLX collection, and I’d say even more so here. Although the FLX003 is 14mm thick, it sits well on smaller wrists like mine (16.5cm/6.5”). Its thickness is due to the domed acrylic crystal, the Seiko NH38A movement inside, and the bulbous case back. Nevertheless, it does wear well, and having it on my wrist reminds me of the sensation of wearing vintage skin divers. The spirit of the old ones is also preserved in the simple design of the case and the legibility of the dial. After all, skin divers were no-fuss tool watches. One of their key design elements was the horizontal cut between the lugs to keep the strap neatly tucked in. We find that here too.

Many skin divers also had small, unguarded crowns. The one on the FLX003 measures 5.8mm in diameter, though it is easy to grab, operate, as well as unscrew/screw down. This and a screw-in case back help ensure water resistance to 200 meters, like most modern divers. The combination of the bulbous case back and domed crystal adds another layer of vintage, and so does the thin mid-case. While the FLX003 measures 14mm thick, the rest of its dimensions are more than reasonable, coming in at 38mm wide (39mm across the bezel), 47mm long, and 20mm between the lugs. Though it doesn’t have drilled lug holes, the provided two-piece SeaQual strap comes with quick-release spring bars. From its dimensions to its design, the FLX003 does indeed honor vintage skin divers. 

The full design and specs

And there are other elements, both technical and aesthetic, that make the Fleux FLX003 an interesting proposition. The first is a great application of Old Radium Super-LumiNova on the hands, hour markers, and the inverted triangle on the bezel. The lume is indeed very good and makes the dial quite easy to read the time in low-light conditions. Then, there’s the bidirectional friction-fit bezel, which is perfectly dialed in and, yes, very vintage.

This mechanism, coupled with a countdown scale, makes it practical, easy to use, and handsome to look at. When it comes to design, I like small crowns as long as they are easy to operate, and this one is. Lastly, the discreet branding and text are a nice touch and emphasize the FLX003’s toolish nature. I would further add that the latter does contribute to endowing the FLX003 with a strong vintage vibe. 

Final thoughts

Coming in at US$499, the Fleux FLX003 makes for a solid value proposition. More importantly, I find that it looks perfectly classic and timeless, which is something I’m into and that maybe you are as well. In this review, I wanted to emphasize the design of the Fleux FLX003, which is one of its strong selling points. Another selling point is its reasonable price tag. And yet another one is its complete spec sheet, which, to me, more than substantiates its retail price. In other words, with the FLX003, you get a great watch for your money and perhaps even a candidate for a “one-watch collection.” But these are just my thoughts, and I would like to hear yours in the comments section.