Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P was a surprise at Watches and Wonders 2025. It’s been a long time since the brand introduced a clean, simple watch at a big annual show like this, and it was welcome. Today, we’ll take a closer look at this gem.
For Patek Philippe, 2024 was the year of double denim, and I must say it was forgettable. I’ve grown to love this brand from a vintage standpoint, and I know it can produce some incredible watches. Still, the last decade has been fraught with overdone pieces, jeweled monstrosities, or (lately) square goofiness. Finally, Patek brings something beautiful in a way that only the esteemed watchmaker can manage. The Calatrava 6196P is a return to a watch that I would consider buying. Finally…
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
On the face of it, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is the greatest dress watch of all time. It’s the standard, and we can fight about it, but you’ll lose. References like the 96 and 570 are still so good that other brands unsuccessfully continue trying to reinvent the wheel instead of shamelessly copying. Weirdly, though, Patek has decided to throw the baby out with the bathwater since the demise of the 5196. The company has been on a weird sort of quest to create larger and more ornate Calatravas. This year, it was as if an imaginary tack hammer thwacked the company heads and jolted them into creating a timeless great. The Calatrava 6196P is the result of this awakening, and dammit, it’s good.
With a 38mm diameter, the platinum Calatrava 6196P still isn’t as small as I’d like it to be, but it’s getting there. To compare, it’s 1mm larger than the discontinued 5196, but 1mm smaller than the 6119. So, it’s clear that Patek isn’t ready to go smaller like Lange with its glorious 1815. We’ll survive, though. Regarding the depth rating, this is most definitely a land-ready dress watch with its 30m spec.
A lovely profile
The Calatrava 6196P is 9.33mm thick, including the sapphire crystal. It cuts a slim figure and boasts lovely case finishing, including horizontal brushing on the sides. The familiar signed crown faithfully sits at 3 o’clock. Admittedly, for a manual-winding watch, it’s small. From the side, the lug profile doesn’t quite commit to the lovely rounded form of the 570, but it’s still beautiful. The downward curve is noticeable and elegant.
The polished bezel, on the other hand, is a compromise. See the “coin-edge” bezel above on the 570. I think it’s a miss that Patek went with a downward-sloping bezel on the 6196P instead of the right-angle design from generations past. Still, the 6196P is a pretty watch.
A classic dial with a modern twist
Patek opted for classically styled applied hour markers on the Calatrava 6196P. This style of indexes and round diamond-drilled minute markers have been used for almost 100 years. The dauphine hands are also classic. If everything sounds traditional, the curveball comes in with anthracite-colored hardware. I’m still not sure if this is better than polished indexes, but I suppose it brings a modern look to a highly traditional visage. When combined with the rose opaline dial, though, it’s a pretty picture.
The 30‑255 PS inside
Thankfully, the Calatrava 6196P has a hand-wound movement. The 30-255 PS is a modern gem with a frequency of 28,800vph and 65 hours of power reserve. The movement is visible via a sapphire display back and shows off Côtes de Genève finishing and plentiful anglage. Is the movement as beautiful as older Patek calibers with their fine bridges? No, but it’s nice as far as modern calibers go. Also, when compared to the old 5196, at least it fits the case.
The strap and buckle are lovely touches
Some may decry the lack of an overwrought folding buckle, but I’m pleased that Patek stuck with a platinum pin buckle and brown alligator strap for the Calatrava 6196P. For a simple dress watch, there’s no need to tart things up with loads of metal.
Following the tradition of platinum Patek references since 1999, the brand decided to add a small diamond on the mid-case. It sits between the lugs on the 6 o’clock side. Is this something I’d pay for as an option? Not at all, and I wonder how much it added to the price.
Sexy on the wrist
It’s hard to make a classy dress watch. Decent dress watches are plentiful, but truly great ones are rare. The Calatrava 6196P is still a touch large in my book, but it’s a serious looker. The dial has enough detail to fill the real estate, and the case sits nicely on the wrist. I also feel that the dial color is on target. Plus, this watch can easily play in a formal environment but also looks nice against denim. It’s a winner.
Final thoughts on the Calatrava 6196P
If it sounds like I’ve been tough on the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P, it’s because I want the brand to make gloriously beautiful and simple dress watches again. This watch is so damn close, and it probably is perfect for someone with a larger wrist. For me, though, I’d like to see it a millimeter or two smaller and with a larger crown. Then again, I’d happily wear one of these without regret. At €46,800, though, this watch is a very pricey undertaking. Then again, it is a Patek Philippe and likely a future classic.
