Hands-On With The Platinum Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton is nothing new in itself. The brand introduced the model in stainless steel and rose gold back in 2022. Those two versions presented a monochromatic aesthetic that was very much in line with the stainless steel Tonda PF Micro-Rotor. The brand mixes things up with a platinum case and and blue dial for this latest iteration. The result is the most technical-looking Tonda PF of the collection. How does that balance out the classically inspired design of the Tonda PF? I had a chance to find out.
Platinum, by default, is an impressive material. Its understated presence might fool you, thinking it is stainless steel. But the moment you pick up a platinum watch, the weight tells you all you need to know. That is exactly what happened when we received a series of Tonda PF watches for review. My eye was immediately drawn to the Golden Siena dial version of the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date that I reviewed last week. But once I picked up the skeletonized version, I immediately felt the weight, and it made me smile every time. It’s the result of the realization of holding a hefty watch in combination with the exclusive nature of platinum watches. But after spending some time together, was it more impressive than its stainless steel counterpart? I had a chance to find out.
The story of the new platinum Tonda PF Skeleton
I can immediately address my answer to that question. As I said in my review, that new No Date version is my favorite watch in the Tonda PF collection. I adore the new dateless Golden Siena dial. It brilliantly compliments the gracious style of the Tonda PF and gives the watch a warmer soul than the monochromatic versions with a date window. The new Tonda PF Skeleton in platinum sits completely at the other end of the spectrum. It’s by far the most technical-looking model in the lineup. However, one that shows the Tonda PF’s design is very versatile.
Technically, the watch is the same as the stainless steel model that Andreas reviewed in 2022. This is a new version executed in platinum with a movement finished in a different color. It was, however, my first experience with this skeletonized version. As Andreas mentioned in his review, this is a watch that you need to experience from up close. With a price tag of €131,400, I expect more to it than overall looks. And there is. The hand-finishing of the different parts of the watch is exquisite and makes it a joy to witness from up close.
The specs of the platinum Tonda PF Skeleton
But I am getting ahead of myself. Let’s first look at some specs to get a general idea of the watch. The Tonda PF Skeleton features a 40mm platinum case that is 8.5mm thick, measures 44.4mm from lug to lug, and is water-resistant up to 100 meters. The round case features the characteristic teardrop lugs that give the Tonda watches their distinct character, along with the knurled bezel.
The lugs flow nicely into the integrated bracelet, which is also made of platinum. The bracelet’s finishing is cleverly executed with a mix of brushed center links and polished outer links. As you can see, the outer links feature a combination of the two finishes, and the bracelet becomes wider towards the case. This creates a nice visual flow from the bracelet to the case.
The skeletonized PF777 movement was explicitly developed for the Tonda PF Skeleton series. As such, it is not a skeletonized version of an existing movement. It also explains that the architecture is different than most skeletonized movements. There is more going on than artistically removing a significant portion of the plates.
The movement is built to accentuate the inner workings while maintaining great legibility — a feature that most skeletonized watches often sacrifice. At the same time, the movement is designed to have a nice, gracious flow between the different bridges that fits the watch’s overall design nicely.
The high watchmaking details of the Tonda PF Skeleton
The Milano Blue open-worked dial’s parts have been sandblasted and then satin-finished. The hand-polished bevels nicely contrast the brushed finish and provide the movement with extra visual contrast. If you look past the blue parts, you will find the open-worked dual barrels, small balance wheel, and pallet fork. The beautifully skeletonized platinum oscillating weight is visible through the sapphire display case back. As you can see, it leaves plenty of visual room to admire the movement and all its beauty.
If we go back to the front, hovering above the dial are the high-polished 18kt gold hands and indices that receive a rhodium coating for extra visual brilliance. As I already mentioned, the contrast between the dial and the hands ensures it’s never hard to read the time. This time-only watch only indicates hours and minutes, making it a very practical open-worked watch. Regarding movement specifics, the 144-part PF777 caliber is only 3.9mm thick, operates at 28,800vph, has 29 jewels, and offers 60 hours of power reserve.
Wearing the Tonda PF Skeleton
So, how does all this watchmaking brilliance do on the wrist? Obviously, the first thing you will notice is the substantial weight of the watch. But despite its mass, the platinum bracelet wraps comfortably around your wrist, and the white gold butterfly clasp closes with two solid clicks.
Once on the wrist, the quality and finishing of the bracelet and case, combined with the intricate details of the open-worked movement, perfectly show Parmigiani’s watchmaking brilliance. But I also noticed a certain understated feel that I really enjoyed. A level of sophistication feels very much in line with the regular models.
But once you zoom in on the different details, you immediately see what makes this such a special watch. Everything has been thought out in great detail. Even the small crown at 3 o’clock is perfectly balanced with the proportions of the case while still easy to grip and operate. Another great detail is how the blue color changes depending on the light conditions and the angle at which you look at it. It goes from an almost petrol blue color to a nice dark and rich blue color in one small movement, making it a joy to look at. Together with the nice flowing lines of the movement, it created a combination that you keep staring at throughout the day.
Final thoughts on the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton
Overall, getting the chance to wear this platinum Tonda PF Skeleton was truly enjoyable. It shows once more that the Parmigiani team understands how to create new additions to the Tonda PF line-up that fit the overall aesthetic of the line perfectly. The designers and watchmakers have created a movement that elevates the beautiful signature design style of the Tonda PF while offering a lovely view of the watch’s inner workings.
This new platinum version of the Tonda PF is a great addition to the line-up. It’s also a beautifully understated version, considering that it is a full platinum watch that costs a whopping €131.400. It’s obviously a hefty price tag aimed at the happy few who can afford it. Still, as a fan of the standard Tonda models, it certainly becomes an aspirational grail, though certainly not a first pick.
But that is no criticism; it is more of a compliment that the brand has built something truly special with its lineup. There is simply an abundance of great options that I prefer over this Skeleton version. One of the main reasons is that the dials of the different Tonda models play such a big part in their appeal. Having said that, I love that the distinct design philosophy of the Tonda family works at all levels. It is perfect proof of how special it is and how well Parmigiani Fleur understands what it is that makes the Tonda PF so special.
Please visit the brand’s official website for more information on the new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton. Also, let me know in the comments below what you think of this platinum version of the Tonda PF Skeleton.