Hands-On With The RGM Model 207-EB Featuring A Beautiful Blue Engine-Turned Dial
It’s been a while since we covered a watch by the North American brand RGM. The company is known for its high-quality watches with classic styling and extensive customizability. Today, we’re looking at the RGM Model 207-EB with a blue guilloché dial. Its 35mm case feels a bit un-American as it isn’t oversized by any means. However, the watch still makes a big impression because of the beautiful engine-turned decoration on the dial.
For those unfamiliar with RGM Watch Company, it was founded in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy, hence the brand’s name. Mr. Murphy is a watchmaker trained by both the Bowman Technical School in Lancaster, Pennsylvania (PA), and the Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program (WOSTEP). After that, he worked at Hamilton Watch Co. in product development, once again in his hometown of Lancaster, PA. If you’re curious, it’s worth taking a look at the watches in RGM’s archives and the brand’s custom pieces. But today, we’ll focus on the RGM Model 207-EB from the company’s current collection.
The RGM Model 207-EB
The RGM Model 207-EB has a 35mm all-polished stainless steel case that’s 8.8mm thick, including the sapphire crystals on the top and bottom. The fairly straight lugs span 43.3mm from tip to tip, making this a great watch for smaller wrists. However, it certainly doesn’t look out of place on bigger wrists. The Model 207’s predecessor, the 107, had a perky onion crown with crown guards. Taking its place is a more contemporary example, and the crown guards are gone.
Then, we come to the real showstopper — the beautifully circular-brushed and engraved blue dial with Breguet numerals, skeletonized apple hands, and a date window at 3 o’clock. The RGM Watch Company owns several engine-turning machines. But most importantly, the people there also have the skills, patience, and precision to apply mesmerizing patterns to the watches’ dials. The RGM Model 207-EB displays a highly complex rosette pattern that becomes finer and finer toward the dial’s center. At 12 o’clock, there’s the RGM brand name, and at 6 o’clock, it states the company’s hometown.
Sellita inside
Through the watch’s screw-in case back, you can see the Sellita SW300-1 Swiss-made automatic movement. It comes with a customized and engraved RGM rotor. The movement runs at a frequency of 28,800vph, features 25 jewels, and holds a power reserve of roughly 55 hours. The watch’s construction makes it water resistant to 5 ATM (50 meters). However, if you choose to go swimming with it, you might want to switch out the rubber-lined alligator leather strap.
The RGM Model 207-EB in person
When I first saw a picture of the RGM Model 207-EB before it arrived at our office, it instantly reminded me of my Breguet Classique ref. 5907. That didn’t change when I saw the watch in person, but there are some rather noticeable differences. The RGM’s case is even all over and a bit beefier than the Breguet’s. I don’t mind that at all, though, because it makes the watch feel a bit more solid.
I also love the flower pattern of the guilloché on the dial. It looks so complex up close but quite graceful from a little further away. I also appreciate that there aren’t many decorations on the dial other than the guilloché ring between the hour and minute tracks. That way, the dial is truly all about that beautiful pattern at the heart of it.
That said, I could’ve certainly done without the date window. Also, its white background stands out a bit too much for my taste. But I’m sure some people appreciate it for its function and readability. The other thing I’d immediately change is the rubber-lined alligator strap. I’d go for a nubuck one without a rubber reinforcement. It might be less durable, but I think it would suit the Model 207-EB better.
On the wrist
On my average 17cm wrist, the 35mm case of the RGM Model 207-EB works perfectly fine. That’s not much of a surprise, though. The real surprise is that it also looks great on Jorg’s slightly bigger wrist. His 18.5cm wrist is the one you see in the pictures, and the Model 207-EB doesn’t appear out of place at all. That’s thanks to its slightly beefier case design in combination with the straight lugs.
The RGM Model 207-EB costs US$5,950 before taxes. There’s also a version with a silver guilloché dial instead of a blue one, the Model 207-E. You can also get the Model 207 without a guilloché dial. This reduces its price to US$2,950 excluding taxes and gives you the choice between a glossy black or sunburst blue pilot dial. But you’re also more than welcome to order a custom piece, of course.
Let me know in the comments below what you think of the RGM Model 207-EB.
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