Hands-On With The Striking BA111OD Chapter 4 Tourbillons

BA111OD is still a young brand in a world of watches that is full of historical powerhouses. But ever since its founding in 2019, BA111OD has quickly made a name for itself with some interesting new ideas. There is plenty to check out, from the compelling business model to the integration of connectivity and the affordable prices for the technically capable watches. I took two of the brand’s Chapter 4 Tourbillons for a spin to find out what they are about. The first model was the modern-looking Chapter 4.5 T.V.D. The second was the more classic-looking Chapter 4.7 Onyx Tourbillon. These different watches gave me a good impression of the BA111OD Chapter 4 series. It’s time to find out more!

We first wrote about BA111OD in 2022, and when I read Sky’s article, it seemed like an ambitious brand with a lot of different and intriguing elements. In the end, though, I am mostly interested in the watches. The Chapter 4 series features several tourbillon watches that stand out for multiple reasons. First off, these are probably the most affordable Swiss-made tourbillon watches currently out there. Second, the Chapter 4 series consists of a string of different models that form the heart of the brand. Finally, some of the Chapter 4 models feature a 44mm case, whereas these two more recent models have a smaller 40mm case that we prefer. All in all, there are plenty of reasons to find out more about the BA111OD Chapter 4 series.

The story of the BA111OD Chapter 4 tourbillon series

Let’s jump straight in and focus on the story of the Chapter 4 watches. The series is built around the BA111OD caliber BA.01, which was developed in collaboration with watchmaker Olivier Mory. Besides this tourbillon movement, Mory also developed the manufacture module of BA111OD’s CHPTR_Δ.5 series that Thor reviewed. On top of that, the movements that power the Louis Erard × Alain Silberstein Regulator Tourbillon and the Yema Yachingraph Maerograph Tourbillon were also created in Mory’s workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

The manual-winding BA.01 tourbillon movement Mory created for BA111OD operates at 21,600vph, has 19 jewels, and is equipped with a variable-inertia balance. The caliber offers an impressive 105 hours of power reserve, and the tourbillon cage makes a full rotation every 60 seconds. As you can see in the pictures, the movement sits at an angle that shifts the tourbillon to 7 o’clock and the crown to 4 o’clock.

Both of the watches we reviewed were time-only models. However, the first variation, the Chapter 4.8 Tourbillon GMT, came out recently featuring a sub-dial for displaying another time zone. This shows the ambition of brand founder Thomas Baillod and Olivier Mory to develop more technically stunning movements.

The BA111OD Chapter 4.5 T.V.D.

The first of our two review models was the BA111OD Chapter 4.5 T.V.D. The abbreviation stands for “The Veblen Dilemma,” and it is a nod to the Veblen effect (a phenomenon in which demand for a product increases as its price does). The Chapter 4.5 was the more modern-looking version of the two Chapter 4 models I had a chance to review. The watch is also the smaller version of the Chapter 4.1 T.V.D that Sky wrote about.

It has a Grade 5 titanium case with a tantalum gray DLC coating. The case has a 40mm diameter, 13mm thickness, 50mm lug-to-lug, and a 50m depth rating. I would say that the case is contemporary in its shape and dimensions and fits the overall modern aesthetic of the watch perfectly.

As already mentioned, the branded crown is at 4 o’clock. Additionally, the case features a mix of different finishes for some visual contrast, and its dark gray color perfectly matches the finishing of the skeletonized movement. The movement features a gunmetal anthracite DLC treatment. This allows the tourbillon at 7 o’clock to take (off-)center stage. With its blue bridge and gold-colored screws, cage, and small seconds hand, it immediately demands attention.

An open-worked dial with many surprising details

Located on the dial’s periphery is the 60-minute scale with numerals for every five minutes on the rehaut. The larger white markers are printed on a blue chapter ring that frames the minute track. This ring matches the color of the tourbillon bridge and the ring that frames the tourbillon. As you can see, the open-worked architecture offers a three-dimensional view of the movement and all its elements, like the eye-catching curved bridges.

But if you look closely, you will also see there are parts of the movement that feature small text. One of the bridges reads “The Veblen Dilemma” after the name of the watch. Additionally, the mainspring cover features three rings. The outer features the French text “Pour aimer Les temps, celui qui non compte pas,” which translates to “To love the time, the one we do not count.” The middle ring contains repeating BA111OD logos, while the inner ring features the brand name. As a result, there is a lot to discover besides the architecture and the different finishes.

An intriguing technical feast for the eyes

Skeletonized hour and minute hands hover above the watch’s inner workings. Protecting them is a domed sapphire crystal that features an NFC function. As Sky explained, “NFC stands for Near Field Communication, a contactless communication technology between two devices in close proximity.” It allows the brand to store some information that, for instance, can help authenticate the watch. Both hands have a filling of white Super-LumiNova, which, along with the polished finish, also helps make them stand out. Because the hands are similar in color to the movement, they do not stand out alone. But this visual trick shows the detail that went into creating this watch.

The interplay between the various gold, silver, gray, and blue elements creates an interesting visual effect, which continues on the back of the watch. That’s where you’ll find a great view of the gear train and the vertically brushed upper plate adorned with blued screws and the brand’s logo. But the thing that stood out most to me is the open-worked architecture that allows a great view of all the different elements. On top of that, the caliber has a well-thought-out overall aesthetic. The combination of materials, colors, and finishes fits the technical nature of the watch perfectly and makes it an impressive modern timepiece.

The BA111OD Chapter 4.7 Onyx

But if you think that the Chapter 4 series is just about ultra-modern-looking timepieces, you are mistaken. The BA111OD Chapter 4.7 Onyx shows a far more traditional side of the series, one that fits it as well as the Chapter 4.5 T.V.D. At first glance, this was my immediate favorite. I adore black onyx dials, so winning me over didn’t take much. As you can see, though, the deep black onyx dial only features the brand’s logo with the text “Swiss Made” underneath and the opening for the tourbillon.

The dial sits inside a fully polished stainless steel case with the same dimensions as the Chapter 4.5 T.V.D. This 40mm case also features a large branded crown at 4 o’clock. Overall, this aesthetic is not just more classic but also more visually impactful. The contrast between the deep black onyx dial and the polished case is striking. Add the polished dauphine hands with Super-LumiNova-filled centers, and you get a brilliant canvas for the tourbillon to shine.

Striking visual contrast on both sides

As you can see, the tourbillon bridge in this model is a different color and was designed differently to suit the overall design better. The gold-colored elements give the watch a certain chic that I love. Turning the watch around reveals the same combination of colors too. The black upper plate contrasts with the gear train, which consists of gold-colored and steel elements.

In a nice twist, a mirror film is placed on the back of the dial and reflects the upper face of the movement. As a result, you get an intricate view of all the caliber’s elements. It’s a clever visual trick that increases the overall three-dimensional feel. I generally do not consider myself a traditionalist regarding watch design. However, I do prefer this second model over the first. While this is completely subjective, I do think the Chapter 4.7 Onyx highlights the tourbillon construction better. After all, it is the big attraction of the Chapter 4 series.

Wearing the two BA111OD Chapter 4 models

But once on the wrist, you quickly understand it’s not about choosing one over the other. Both watches have a particular charm that will appeal to different fans. The Chapter 4.5 T.V.D. comes on a black Saffiano cowhide leather strap with blue stitching to match the blue elements on the front side of the watch. The strap is fitted with a gunmetal-DLC-treated titanium folding clasp in line with the case. Once on the wrist, the watch feels and looks impressive. The size fits my 18.5cm wrist perfectly, and the watch is perfectly proportioned. On top of that, I found the materials and the open-worked design drew me in constantly.

There are so many different details to check out that make this an interesting creation. For example, the brand’s logo is printed on the sapphire crystal, making it look like it’s floating above the dial. While the hands do not always stand out immediately, reading the time is never an issue thanks to the white Super-LumiNova. But the big eyecatcher is the tourbillon, of course.

Why the Chapter 4.5 T.V.D makes perfect sense

Although I have seen many tourbillon watches, the mechanism remains technically fascinating to me. However, as I have said in past articles, I am usually not a fan of how the integration of a tourbillon often compromises a well-balanced design. But when you create a modern open-worked dial like the Chapter 4.5 T.V.D. has, it becomes an integral part of the overall technical aesthetic. That’s why the watch immediately feels logical. And the modern nature is also perfectly in sync with the case size. It just makes sense when it’s on the wrist.

I also loved operating the crown. It’s a simple push/pull crown, but it feels well made, and once you pull it out and start adjusting the time, there is zero wiggle room. It’s this quality feel you get from a high-end brand. On top of that, it allows you to easily set the time precisely. It was fun to see how the watch impressed me a lot more on the wrist. Once put in the right context, the pieces of the puzzle neatly fall into place.

Wearing the Chapter 4.7 Onyx

I experienced something different with the Chapter 4.7 Onyx. As I mentioned, at first glance, this would be my preferred choice based on looks. But those looks somehow translated to a watch that feels fairly big on the wrist. It is a combination of the minimalist design, the more classical overall aesthetic, and the case size. It wasn’t so much a problem with the watch but more with the programming of the brain. Indeed, the watch sat very nicely on my wrist. For some reason, though, I associated the classic design with smaller watches. It’s funny how our brains trick us sometimes.

But after wearing the watch for a couple of hours, I got used to the modern size and proportions and started appreciating the watch for its stellar presence. It is simply a beautiful creation that I ended up loving a lot. The beautiful deep black dial and the contrasting polished case make a perfect canvas for the tourbillon construction to pop. So, whereas the Chapter 4.5 T.V.D. is a very balanced visual creation overall, this model is more about the individual visual brilliance of the different parts. That’s why I think the two models perfectly complement each other. They will appeal to different customers, which seems like a smart move by BA111OD.

Final thoughts on the BA111OD Chapter 4 tourbillons

The Chapter 4 Tourbillon series is a clever collection of watches overall. It is based on creating an affordable Swiss-made tourbillon movement that can be combined with different case sizes and dial designs. Looking at the entire range, you will find a mix of different styles that show the brand’s versatility. Besides the two watches we reviewed, some other standouts are the brand’s fifth-anniversary Chapter 4 models with special hand-painted dials. They show that a beautiful, elegant white backdrop also works nicely for the Chapter 4 series.

Additionally, the aforementioned Chapter 4.8 GMT Tourbillon Greenwich Limited Edition shows that the series can also be expanded by adding complications. Lastly, there is the Chapter 4.9 Meteor with a meteorite dial, which complements the Chapter 4.7 Onyx we reviewed. As you will understand, though, the meteorite dial makes the watch look completely different. These models show the great versatility of the series, and I enjoy that. When it comes to picking a favorite, I will stick with the beautiful Chapter 4.7 Onyx. It is such a visually striking watch that it constantly reminds me of the special tourbillon movement that powers it. The watch grew on me quickly after initial hesitation about the style versus the modern dimensions.

The BA111OD Chapter 4 series: affordable Swiss-made tourbillons

This all brings me to the pricing of both of these watches. The Chapter 4.7 Onyx can be yours for €7,300, whereas the Chapter 4.5 T.V.D. is slightly more expensive at €7,850. In either case, what you get in return is a beautifully created Swiss-made watch with a tourbillon movement. I don’t have to explain how remarkable that is. To buy a tourbillon watch from other Swiss brands, you will probably have to add an extra digit to that price. Granted, BA111OD does not have the grandeur of many of its Swiss counterparts yet. But that is also not necessarily what the brand is after.

BA111OD is a young brand that intends to shake things up remarkably, and I have to say that it made a striking impression on me. I was nothing short of impressed by the design, the technical brilliance, and the execution of all the different parts. The Chapter 4 series of watches will undoubtedly appeal to watch fans who want to experience the magic of a Swiss-made tourbillon without having to pay the usual price for one. It is an interesting approach to watchmaking that I greatly appreciate, and I was happy to experience two watches that show what makes the BA111OD Chapter 4 series special in today’s horological landscape.

Visit the brand’s official website to learn more about the BA111OD Chapter 4 series or any of its other collections. Also, tell us which of these two watches you prefer in the comments below.

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