Hands-On With The White-Dial Omega Speedmaster “Daniel Craig”
It was a long wait for many of you (and us), but here it is — the new Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. We had the opportunity to go hands-on with this new white-dial Speedmaster, which was first seen on Daniel Craig’s wrist last November.
The white-dial Omega Speedmaster “Daniel Craig”
At first, people thought it was the Speedmaster in Canopus (white) Gold, but it quickly became clear that it was a new (prototype) Speedmaster watch with a white dial. Although Daniel Craig is a Speedmaster guy (and even owns a Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday edition), I am not too sure about the nickname “Daniel Craig” since he’s so associated with the Seamaster 300M.
Let’s have a closer look at the new Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with the white lacquered dial. According to Omega, the white dial is inspired by the white suits of the astronauts that were used during extravehicular activity (EVA). In my opinion, that’s a bit far-fetched as Omega had other white-dial Speedmaster Professional models in the past and never mentioned this connection or association.
Back in 2015, the Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award had a white dial, and so did the Alaska Project from 2008. A bit longer ago, there was the 1997 Speedmaster “Albino” for the Italian market to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Speedmaster. Going further back in Speedmaster history, Omega also had a white dial in the original Alaska Project watch. Omega let us know that the red “Speedmaster” printing is a nod to the protective case of the Alaska Project.
The long-awaited white dial
Aside from the dial and hands, the new Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with a white dial is identical to the Speedmaster Professional with sapphire crystals. It’s powered by the Master Chronometer-certified 3861 chronograph movement, it has the aluminum Dot Over Ninety bezel and the same 42mm case, and the bracelet has polished intermediate links. There is nothing new there; this is simply a dial party!
In my 25 years of collecting Speedmasters, there have been three major “requests” from fellow collectors. One was the demand for the return of caliber 321, an ongoing discussion for many years. That wish has been fulfilled, and while it’s perhaps not in the form some of you would like (a 42mm Moonwatch at a more affordable price point), it’s back.
Easy adjustment in the clasp
Another major request was to update the bracelet that Omega had used since 1996. In 2021, Omega introduced a new bracelet with a more dramatic taper (20mm to 15mm), available in an all-brushed version and one with polished intermediate links. A little later, Omega updated the clasp to have an easy-extension system. Lastly, I have seen many requests (or wishes) for a white dial in the regular Speedmaster Professional. The popularity of the limited editions (Snoopy 2015, Alaska 2008, and Albino 1997) triggered that wish even more, I guess.
A dial with depth
The new Speedmaster Professional has a white varnished and lacquered dial. Crucially, the step down to the minute track and the circular graining in the sub-dials are still there. Omega has used diamond-polished black PVD hands to ensure proper readability and the best contrast against the white lacquered dial.
The hands have an application of Super-LumiNova, which glows green in the dark. On the dial, you will also find diamond-polished black PVD hour markers with square Super-LumiNova pips.
Caliber 3861
The new white-dial Speedmaster Moonwatch is only available with a sapphire crystal. Actually, it has two — one on the front and one on the case back to ensure you can enjoy looking at the Master Chronometer-certified caliber 3861 chronograph. We have covered this movement extensively in the past, but if you’re new to this watch and movement, it’s the successor of Omega’s caliber 1861. This new Lemania-based chronograph uses the same platform as the 1861 but consists of 50% new parts, including the components for the Co-Axial escapement and the silicon hairspring. It is more precise than its predecessor, offering an average accuracy of 0/+5 seconds per day instead of -1/+10 seconds per day.
What’s also “new” with the current lineup of Speedmaster Professional chronographs with Master Chronometer certification is that METAS also tests each watch for water resistance to 50 meters (+10% margin). Yes, you can swim with the current Moonwatch!
Straps and bracelet
Omega is offering three different references for this white-dial Speedmaster Professional. There is, of course, the version with the stainless steel bracelet, which is reference 310.30.42.50.04.001. Then, there’s a version with a black leather racing strap with white stitching.
It is a perforated strap with red stitching on the underside. This version is the reference 310.32.42.50.04.001. Lastly, there’s a version on a rubber strap.
The rubber strap is identical to the one introduced with the “Moonshine Panda” version a few years ago. It fits the case perfectly, and the inside shows the lunar-surface pattern in relief. This combination has reference number 310.32.42.50.04.002. Both strap versions come with a folding clasp.
On the wrist
The Omega Speedmaster Professional with a white dial is an incredibly welcome and cool addition to the Moonwatch family. Better yet, it is not a limited or special edition, and it will sit right next to the classic black-dial models.
Those who don’t have a Moonwatch can now go for a wonderful variation of the iconic chronograph without a 44.25mm case and a self-winding movement. If you already have your classic Moonwatch, the white-dial version is a legitimate reason to add another to your collection.
Some white dials have a certain hardness, especially when the dial is one large, flat surface. The Rolex Explorer II 16570 comes to mind, for example. Some people like that, but I get bored after a while. The lacquered step dial of this new Moonwatch is very pleasing, and it has a certain softness to it. I can’t imagine it would have the same effect on me as the Explorer II 16570 or the (white-dial) Panerai PAM00113 that I had. The step and the azurage finish of the recessed registers bring a significant amount of depth to the dial.
On the wrist, the white-dial Speedmaster Professional is no different from the regular 42mm Moonwatch. The watch might appear slightly larger due to the white dial, but the dimensions are no different. It has the same 47.5mm lug-to-lug length and 13.18mm thickness.
On a strap, the watch weighs 92.6 grams, while it weighs 139.8 grams on the bracelet. Especially on the rubber strap, it’s lightweight and incredibly comfortable. However, I will purchase the version with the stainless steel bracelet and add a rubber strap separately.
The prices (including VAT except the USD price) are as follows:
- Steel-bracelet version (310.30.42.50.04.001): €9,000 / CHF 7,700 / US$8,100
- Rubber-strap version (310.32.42.50.04.002): €8,600 / CHF 7,400 / US$7,800
- Leather-strap version (310.32.42.50.04.001): €8,600 / CHF 7,400 / US$7,800
You can find all of the specifications below. This new white-dial Speedmaster Professional will be available through Omega boutiques (first) and Omega’s authorized dealers. For more information, visit the official Omega website.