Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition — Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement
It’s been a little over a year since Yema introduced the current version of the Navygraf. The brand’s Navygraf II from the late ’70s inspired the design of the watch. I had a chance to go hands-on with the Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT last year, and I liked it. The updated style and the great comfort made for an attractive GMT. The remarkable thing is that the GMT version hadn’t received a follow-up until now. With the new Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition, Yema releases a three-hand, time-only model that looks super stylish and is powered by the brand’s in-house micro-rotor movement. It makes for a classy limited-edition version of the Navygraf that I couldn’t wait to take for a spin.
When we think of Yema dive watches, the first model that comes to mind is the brand’s popular Superman. We have seen several different iterations in that vintage-inspired line of divers. It’s a bit of a contrast compared to the two Navygraf models that the Morteau brand released. This new Navygraf Slim CMM.20 is the second model after the Marine Nationale GMT that I mentioned earlier. This latest model is a step up from the GMT version. It follows the example of the Superman Slim that Daan reviewed earlier this year with an in-house movement and a slimmer profile.
The Navygraf Slim CMM.20 is a logical step for Yema
A dive watch and a micro-rotor movement are not a common combination. Micro-rotor calibers are generally used for dress watches and integrated-bracelet sports watches. However, Yema employs a different strategy and uses its in-house CMM.20 micro-rotor movement to create slimmer, more refined versions of its divers.
It’s a strategy to improve the regular models and a showcase of the great horological steps the French brand has taken to create in-house calibers. That’s why it makes sense that Yema equips different models from its collection with its top-end movement.
The first time we saw the CMM.20 caliber was in the Wristmaster Traveller Micro-Rotor Limited Edition that Nacho wrote about. He also had the chance to go behind the scenes to show the great effort that Yema puts in to evolve and improve its movements and watches constantly.
A first glance at the Navygraf CMM.20 immediately tells you that it differs from the Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT. Both in profile and overall appearance, the watch has a greater visual impact than the previous GMT model.
The details of the Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition
The new Navygraf has a 39mm stainless steel case that measures 46mm from tip to tip and 19mm between the lugs. In addition, it offers a slim profile at just under 12mm thick with the domed sapphire crystal (9.5mm without). This makes the Navygraf Slim slightly thinner than the Superman Slim. The watch is still water resistant to 300 meters, making it a very capable dive watch.
The overall case profile is very nice, and the brushed finish and polished bevels make the watch look classy. Everyone in the Fratello office who saw the watch agreed that Yema did a nice job with the slim case and the nicely flowing profile.
The case features a large screw-down crown, and the unidirectional bezel holds a black sapphire insert with white markers. This insert looks stylish with its mix of graphical markers but lacks some practicality as there are no numbers on it.
This Navygraf is all about style
The watch features a black lacquered enamel dial with applied indices filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9. The dial design takes after that of the Yema Navygraf II from the 1970s. The stainless steel hour and minute hands are treated with Super-LumiNova BGW9, while the seconds hand is executed in bright yellow. It matches the yellow Navygraf name on the top half of the dial, resulting in a watch that looks chic. While it might not be the hardcore dive watch that the Yema Superman is, it makes up for it with its retro-styled presence.
If you turn the watch around, you will get a great view of the brand’s in-house CMM.20 movement. As Daan explained in his review of the Superman Slim, the abbreviation stands for Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20. The movement was designed and developed by Yema’s watchmakers in Morteau, France.
The black satin finish on the movement nicely matches the black overall style, but the contrasting tungsten micro-rotor spinning on ball bearings stands out immediately. This automatic caliber operates at a 28,800vph frequency, features 33 jewels, and has a power reserve of 70 hours.
Yema indicates that the movement is accurate between +7 and -3 seconds a day, which are numbers close to COSC chronometer specs.
Wearing the Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20
As soon as I put the watch on my wrist, I was impressed by its style, svelte profile, and nice finish. Its slimness and supple leather strap make it a pleasure to wear. This grained black strap has a nice taper and comes with a stainless steel pin buckle.
It’s a watch with very clean, vintage-inspired looks, and it was a great break from my usual sports watches. It sounds a bit weird because the Navygraf is also a sports watch at heart. But this slim version feels different. It is more stylish, transforming the watch into a great daily wearer.
After wearing the watch for a couple of days, I was impressed by its style. The movement was also a joy to see in action. One surprising thing, however, was the “auditory quality” of the movement. You can hear the micro-rotor spin on the ball bearings.
It’s not necessarily bad, but considering that this 200-piece limited edition has a price tag of €1,990, my expectations were slightly different. As most of you know, preferences about the movement’s sound are very personal, so there is no judgment on the actual quality or accuracy. It’s merely a personal observation.
All in all, I had fun wearing the Navygraf Slim CMM.20 for a couple of days. It balances the Navygraf’s diving roots and current stylish presence, making for a great piece. It’s also why I hope the brand will add more models to the lineup because this ’70s-inspired classic deserves a steady spot in the Yema collection.
For more information or to buy the Navygraf Slim CMM.20, visit the official Yema website. In the comments section, let us know your thoughts on this new, slimmer version of the Yema Navygraf.
