Historically Accurate Alternatives To IWC’s Modern Mark Series
In December 2024, we published a review of the IWC RAAF pilot’s watch. This is a special timepiece that is only available to members of the Royal Australian Air Force (hence, RAAF). The overwhelming feedback I got through private messages as well as some of the comments on the article revealed a genuine frustration among IWC fans. This was specifically regarding the design language used in the modern Mark series of pilot’s watches.
Image: Watches of Knightsbridge
Some background on the IWC Mark series
For those who aren’t familiar with the context, let me explain. IWC’s Mark series of watches was born in the last embers of World War II. During that conflict, 12 manufacturers provided watches to a design specification for the British Ministry of Defence (MoD). These watches became known as the “Dirty Dozen.” There is a highly informative article on the subject here. Long story short, among those manufacturers were watch companies including IWC, Omega, Vertex, and Timor. These were highly legible watches with black dials, small seconds, and Arabic numerals. IWC’s version became known as the Mark 10.
The brand continued the tradition of military watches utilizing that design language with the IWC Mark 11. This was introduced just after the war for a mix of civilian and military organizations within the Commonwealth, such as the Royal Air Force (RAF), Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF), and British Overseas Airways Corporation (BOAC). The Mark 11 introduced much of the modern design language we take for granted in the IWC Mark series. This included the use of a central seconds hand, Arabic numerals, a black dial, a robust stainless steel case, and a soft iron inner cage to protect the watch from magnetism while being used in the cockpit.
Strong beginnings for IWC’s Mark series
In essence, then, we can boil down the beginnings and early evolution of the IWC Mark series to two models — IWC’s Mark 10 contribution to those Dirty Dozen watches and the subsequent Mark 11. These paved the way for proving that IWC was an excellent manufacturer of military timepieces. Nowadays, there is also IWC’s Big Pilot line, which traces its lineage back to watches made for the German Air Force, or Luftwaffe, in WWII. But that’s another story…
One of the key features that IWC’s Mark 11 introduced was a baton-shaped hour hand and a sharply pointed minute hand. This handset was carried over to two subsequent models. These models were the IWC Mark XII and Mark XV (pictured above). With each new iteration, we saw technical improvements. This included the movement within, a slight increase in case size (from 36mm to 38mm for the Mark XV), and general production techniques. A screw-down crown provided the Mark XII and XV with a 6-bar water resistance rating, meaning they could be worn swimming.
A muddling of design languages
Looking at the IWC Mark 11, XII, and XV, we see quite similar designs. There are mostly changes in the dial typeface, case size, and tech. But much like the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line, there is a clear evolution at play while the brand sticks to the core design. Things all started to shift with the IWC Mark XVI, which introduced a significant change in the typeface and handset design.
Gone were the baton hour hand and sharply pointed minute hand, Now, in their place, were sword hands more associated with the Big Pilot’s Watch line. This meant that design cues associated with watches designed for the Luftwaffe were now in place for watches that had their history with that air force’s former enemy, the RAF!
Seeing pure design language but only in special editions
Shifting to the IWC RAAF model, we see a noticeable return to some of those earlier designs, particularly with the typeface and handset used. Many of our readers reached out to me to note their frustration at seeing IWC make a modern watch that provided a truer rendition of the Mark series ancestors than the Mark XX. The frustration stems from the fact that hardly anyone can buy this watch. Only current and former members of the RAAF can attain one. There are also a couple of special editions, including one from our colleagues at Hodinkee, which utilize the iconic handset design. Unfortunately, these are long sold out.
The IWC RAAF also proved that the brand can make a modern version of a pilot’s watch that reflects the key design elements of the Mark 10, 11, XII, and XV. So I thought, “If I were in the shoes of someone who wanted to get that IWC Mark flavor without buying a new Mark XX, what would my advice be?”
The Timor Heritage Field WWW
My first recommendation goes to Timor’s rendition of its original Dirty Dozen watch. The Timor Heritage Field WWW is an accurate homage to the brand’s original design from WWII. In it, we get small seconds provided by a hand-wound Sellita SW260-1. We also get a case slightly over 36mm in diameter and an oversized crown. The raw ingredients are not only there, but the execution is good too. When I was handling it, the watch felt sturdy with good tolerances. The typeface used is historically accurate and cool. While the case has a nice bead-blasted finish, admittedly, I’d rather see a more traditional brushed finish here.
The watch does not look or feel too thick or clumsy on the wrist. It’s surprisingly ergonomic. It comes with a black NATO (I swapped it with a single-pass strap), which does the job nicely. The winding action of the crown is highly satisfying. The case back even has a “W W W” engraving, meaning “Wrist Watch Waterproof.” This is a reference to the original Dirty Dozen watches. I’d like to see the water resistance rated at 100 meters rather than 50 simply because I would like to take this watch worry-free into the ocean. Still, for £979, the Timor Heritage Field WWW is my recommendation for those who are after an IWC Mark 10-esque watch.
The Forstner Pilot Ref. F-6B/346
Forstner is certainly best known for its bracelets. However, the brand also makes a couple of watches. One of those is the Pilot Ref. F-6B/346. This is a direct reference to the original specification for pilot’s navigator watches (including the IWC Mark 11), which went under the designation F-6B/346. With this Forstner watch, we see a return to a 36mm case and the handset style used by the IWC Mark 11.
We get a 100m water resistance rating and a Sellita SW210 hand-wound movement. The Pilot Ref. F-6B/346 also wears well, and I particularly appreciate the use of stark white markers on the black dial. This makes for a refreshing design that reflects what an original may have looked like straight out of the factory. One thing that leaves me scratching my head, though, is the textured dial. The heavy texture is very noticeable. Some of you may like it, but I would have preferred a simpler, matte dial. Nevertheless, this watch would be my recommendation for those of you after something like an IWC Mark 11 but much more attainable in price — US$850, to be exact.
The IWC Mark XV
Finally, we get to my favorite, the IWC Mark XV. This is cheating, to be sure, because it’s just recommending something that IWC already made. Just hear me out. The IWC Mark XV is still relatively affordable on the secondary market and usually more so than its Mark XII (especially examples in nice condition). This watch nicely bridges the gap between vintage and modern with the use of a sapphire crystal, an excellent modified ETA 2892 movement, and tight tolerances that assure quality, even in heavy use.
In fact, the IWC Mark XV can be found for significantly less than a Mark XX. Sure, you don’t get a 120-hour power reserve or 10-bar water resistance. However, you still get the core specifications, a better 38mm case size, and a better-balanced dial design overall. Those core specifications include the soft iron inner cage we have come to expect from IWC’s pilot’s watches, a highly accurate movement, and a screw-down crown for a surface-swimmable watch. This is a watch that I own, and I deeply enjoy wearing it most days.
Concluding thoughts
So, there we have it. There are many more examples for those of us who are after a watch that reflects the design language of the Dirty Dozen. In fact, my colleague Vincent recently penned a story on that subject. Broadly speaking, we are treated to several very solid options from other brands that get us close or closer to an IWC Mark series watch with the classic design language. For those of us who are more flexible, there are also excellent watch designs with military heritage (circa 1970s) from brands like Hamilton and CWC, to name just a few.
With all of that said, the IWC Mark series after the Mark XV still offers excellent options for those not bothered by the design decisions made for the Mark XVI and its successors. But what do you think, Fratelli? What would be your favorite pick if you were after an alternative to the IWC Mark series? And would you consider picking up a Mark XX due to the technical improvements it provides? Let me know in the comments.
