Hot Take: Rolex 1908 In Platinum With A Guilloché Dial
Last year at Watches and Wonders 2023, Rolex surprised most of us with the 1908 collection. This classical, formal line of watches in 18K yellow and white gold brought a new aesthetic to the brand. We also considered it something of an opening move. Rolex was taking aim at some of the established Haute Horlogerie houses.
This year, at Watches and Wonders 2024, that expectation is fulfilled. The 1908 sees the introduction of a new version in an even more precious material — platinum. This new model carries reference number 52506. The dial bears beautiful guilloché work, another feature pushing Rolex into high-end waters. Competitors, beware!
A guilloché dial for the Rolex 1908
The fact that this brand-new guilloché dial comes in pale blue may not be a surprise to Rolex aficionados. In Daytona and Day-Date realms, ice blue signals the use of a platinum case. The new 1908 follows that template.
Guillochage or engine-turning is not completely new to Rolex. You will find rare examples of it in the brand’s back catalog. Still, we can certainly interpret this new dial as a statement of intent. What we see is a so-called rice-grain motif that expands from the sub-seconds register outwards. Classical guilloché features are present, such as clean cutouts in the pattern where the dial printing sits.
Flanking the minute track is a so-called filet sauté with a crimped pattern. Lastly, the sub-seconds lie in a circularly cut section, resulting in a subtle sunburst.
Other Rolex 1908 specs
Beyond the new dial and the new case material, we find familiar specifications. The case still measures a popular 39mm wide and 9.5mm thick, and it still features the beautiful double bezel. The outer portion is fluted, while the inner ring is domed. The display case back also made it from the gold versions onto the platinum one.
That sapphire window offers a view of the caliber 7140 inside. This automatic in-house caliber debuted last year and is unique to the 1908 line. It features a Chronergy escapement with a Siloxy hairspring for optimal resistance to magnetism. It is rated to ±2 seconds per day, and it should have an autonomy of around 66 hours.
The new Rolex 1908 in platinum comes on a matte brown, green-lined alligator strap. The double-folding clasp is, of course, also executed in platinum. It is shaped to conform to the underside of the wrist, keeping it securely in place.
Initial impressions
I cannot wait to go hands-on with this new model later today. Although this will certainly not be the most popular Rolex release, I suspect it will be highly significant. Last year’s 1908 paved the way for Rolex into higher-end realms. This new 1908 platinum is confidently trotting down that new road. It will be exciting to see how far onto that road Rolex travels over the coming decade.
But that is all context. The watch itself is highly impressive too. I find it slightly jarring to see the typical Rolex aesthetic paired with such a classical guilloché dial. But it’s jarring in a good way. This is not what I had expected from Rolex before last year’s Watches and Wonders. It makes a lot of sense, though. And, as we have come to expect from The Crown, it is done extremely well.
The new Rolex 1908 in platinum with an ice-blue guilloché dial has a price of €31,500. Stay tuned as we will get a chance to try it on very soon.
What do you think of the new Rolex 1908? Let us know in the comments below!
