While our in-house scuba diver, Nacho, takes a closer at the new Tudor Pelagos FXD “US Navy” in Florida today, let me run down the watch for you first.

Quite unexpectedly (Tudor knows how to keep a secret, and the media is improving in not breaking embargos), Tudor introduces a new Pelagos FXD. It’s a Tudor US Navy or MilSub(“Military Submariner”)-inspired watch, wrapped in a black-dial Pelagos FXD.

Tudor Pelagos FXD "US Navy"

Tudor Pelagos FXD in black

Tudor introduced the first Pelagos FXD in 2021, making it clear it was a Marine Nationale (MN) watch, which the brand had previously made for the French Navy. And now, there’s a new version in black instead of blue but without any specific inscription on the case back. The new Tudor Pelagos FXD has a khaki-green and red fabric strap and a black rubber single-pass strap.

Specifications

In the past, Tudor delivered watches to the US Navy. According to this article from the Tudor Collector website, Tudor and the US Navy started with the “Big Crown” reference 7924 at the end of the 1950s. Then, in the 1960s, the US Navy used the reference 7928. Like the Tudor watches for the Marine Nationale, these watches had specially engraved case backs.

Tudor Pelagos FXD "US Navy" black rubber strap

Tudor’s latest release specifically takes inspiration from the late 1960s Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7016 and is a modern take on the famous “MilSub” model. However, the new Tudor Pelagos FXD has no engravings on its case back, but according to the brand, it’s the ultimate modern MilSub. The colorway of the watch makes it the “US Navy” counterpart of the Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale, says Tudor.

Tudor Pelagos FXD "US Navy" close-up

Like the Marine Nationale version, the watch has a 42mm satin-brushed titanium case with fixed lugs (hence, the name). The unidirectional bezel is also titanium, and it sports a ceramic insert. This insert is filled with grade X1 Super-LumiNova material for the best legibility in low-light conditions. And, of course, the dial and hands have also received a generous application of this specific grade Super-LumiNova.

Tudor Pelagos FXD "US Navy" flat

Inside we find Tudor’s automatic caliber MT5602, a COSC-certified chronometer. It provides 70 hours of power reserve and a silicon hairspring. The provided fabric and rubber straps are each one piece to work with the fixed-lug system.

Tudor Pelagos FXD US Navy

Pricing and final thoughts

The retail price of the new Tudor Pelagos FXD “US Navy” or “MilSub” is €4,150 / US$4,150. I expected a little bit more from this release as Tudor made quite a fuss out of it by organizing a big trip to the US to introduce the watch. In the end, though, the new Pelagos FXD in black is just a very pretty watch that I might even prefer over the blue version. Boring can be better sometimes.

Now, I see the entire “MilSub” inspiration from a storytelling perspective. The watch itself, though, lacks (to me) any nods to the 1960s (to 1980s) watches that were used by the US Navy and its SEAL teams. However, this Pelagos FXD is a cool execution of a successful Tudor watch, and in the end, that’s what counts.

What are your thoughts on this new version of the FXD? Do you prefer it over the Marine Nationale, or would you go for this “MilSub” version? Let us know in the comments.

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
Pelagos FXD
Reference
M25717N-0001
Dial
Black with matte finish, applied indices with Super-LumiNova X1
Case Material
Titanium, stainless steel case back, ceramic bezel insert with Super-LumiNova X1
Case Dimensions
42mm (diameter) × 52mm (lug-to-lug) ×12.75m (thickness)
Crystal
Sapphire
Case Back
Stainless steel
Movement
Tudor MT5602 — automatic winding, 28,800vph frequency, 70-hour power reserve, COSC-certified chronometer, silicon hairspring
Water Resistance
200m
Strap
Green/red fabric and black rubber one-piece straps (22mm width)
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, central seconds), unidirectional 60-minute dive bezel (60 clicks)
Price
€4,150 / US$4,150