How The Black-Dial Zenith Chronomaster Original Changed My Collecting Perspective
When Zenith first introduced this black-dial version of the Chronomaster Original in September 2023, it felt like a déjà vu. At first glance, it immediately felt like a dial variant that the brand would have released in the early ’70s. We know that didn’t happen, but here we are, 50+ years later, with a dial variant that felt like it came straight from Zenith’s extensive archives. I had the pleasure of taking the watch for a thorough spin, only to confirm what I already knew: it’s time for me to start that Zenith collection I’ve long talked about. Yes, it’s safe to say that the black-dial Chronomaster Original was more than just another watch. Let me explain why…
If you are a regular Fratello reader, you might have seen me singing the praises of Zenith. What can I say? It’s hard not to write about a brand that you love. I’d say that this watchmaker from Le Locle is tied for the title of my favorite brand along with A. Lange & Söhne. Both have found a place in my heart for multiple reasons. With Zenith, it starts with the watches’ designs. Going through Zenith’s history is a wild ride full of exciting and colorful watches. In particular, the El Primero models from the late ’60s and early ’70s are among the best I have ever seen. Of course, the El Primero movement lineage also plays a big part, and I consider it watchmaking royalty. The combination of fantastic designs and equally impressive calibers has led to a plethora of brilliant vintage and modern Zenith watches.
The magic of the Zenith Chronomaster collection
That’s why it comes as no surprise that I’m a fan of the current Chronomaster line. In my opinion, the majority of the Zenith’s best models belong to it. What I particularly love is that the line offers modern versions of the classics, including the inaugural trio of El Primero models and their successors, such as the A3817 and the two A3818 “Cover Girl” reissues created with Revolution and The Rake.
But equally important are the modern versions based on the classics. Zenith has shown its design brilliance with releases like the Chronomaster Revival A384 Lupin The Third Trilogy, the Chronomaster Original Limited Edition For Hodinkee, the Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip,” the Chronomaster Revival A386 Manufacture Edition, and the stunning A386 Fine Watch Club, which I saw at a Fratello event in The Hague in 2022.
However, it would be unfair not to give the brand credit for the Chronomaster Original as well. Initially deemed “the Zaytona,” the watch has found quite a lot of fans since its debut. I especially love the Chronomaster Sport Titanium, but I have also enjoyed spending time with the Chronomaster Sport Boutique Edition. I could go on for a minute and mention more releases I have thoroughly enjoyed, but what it all comes down to is that I love the designs Zenith has come up with for new versions of its classic models. They show a brilliance that I also adore about their vintage counterparts. As a result, I find great joy in Zenith’s past and present, and that is why I love the brand.
The story of the black-dial Zenith Chronomaster Original
So, how does the black-dial version of the Chronomaster Original fit in? The dial makes you believe that this is another revived classic plucked straight from the brand’s archives. In reality, though, it’s not. It is a new take on the classic. The fact that the designers simply changed the main dial to black might seem too easy, but sometimes a stroke of genius is right in front of you. While I love the original white-dial A386, the truth is that it won’t be my first pick when it comes to the Chronomaster Original. There are other models, like the one with a reverse panda dial, that I would pick over the great classic.
Would this black-dial model be one of them? My immediate answer would be a firm “yes.” As a rule of thumb, I simply prefer black dials over white ones. But with the true classics, you have to respect the original, right? I had a chance to find out. Upon seeing this watch, my colleague Daan immediately mentioned that the three colorful sub-dials don’t contrast the black backdrop as much as the white one. And he is right. But would that change my preference? I had a week to find out.
The basic specs of the Zenith Chronomaster Original
As this is a hands-on review, let’s get some basic specs out of the way. This Chronomaster Original has a 38mm stainless steel case with a 12.6mm thickness and a 47mm lug-to-lug. That last measurement is important because it gives the watch a lot of wrist presence. The stainless steel case is matched with a black dial that has a lot going on. First off, there is a trio of overlapping sub-dials in gray and blue. They immediately stand out despite the lesser contrast in comparison with the white-dial version.
The dial also prominently features a white 100-unit scale and the 1/10th-of-a-second scale on the rehaut. The applied hour markers, filled with white lume, are placed on the inside of the white chronograph ring. In between the markers is the minute track, with every minute subdivided into five steps. In the original El Primero A386, this was also a seconds track for the chronograph, and it hinted at the technical brilliance of the high-beat El Primero movement. Admittedly, since the modern Chronomaster Original’s central chronograph hand functions differently, it’s now more of an aesthetic touch than a functional one. Nevertheless, I still like what it brings to the dial.
A dial full of great details that bring it to life
The date sits neatly tucked away at 4:30. I know it’s a nuisance in the eyes of many watch fans, but I like it. Not only is it one of the characteristics of the El Primero movements, but it also hasn’t bothered me once in all the times I’ve worn an El Primero model. Sure, the way the date window cuts into the black-on-white numerals is far from elegant. But the way the inner scale continues and the precisely measured space for the aperture bring a smile to my face, so I quickly filed them under “brings character to the dial.”
The white hour and minute hands hover above the dial, corresponding with the small hands used for the sub-dials. Additionally, the red-lacquered central chronograph hand brings a nice hint of color to the overall creation.
The sign-off comes in the form of the Zenith logo with the applied star and the signature “El Primero” script with the movement frequency underneath. What I adore about Zenith’s dials is their level of detail. Not only is there a lot to discover, but the dials also never feel cluttered, and the details add refinement. That’s a big part of why I adore the designs so much.
A modern El Primero movement
Inside the watch is the modern automatic Zenith El Primero 3600 caliber. It is visible through the case back’s sapphire display and operates at 36,000vph while offering 60 hours of power reserve. This column-wheel chronograph movement allows the chronograph seconds hand to travel around the dial once in exactly 10 seconds. It’s a bit of a party trick but, at the same time, a great display of the horological brilliance of the El Primero movements.
The caliber features a skeletonized rotor with the Zenith star. Additionally, the movement’s finishing is neatly done. But most of all, I enjoy seeing the architecture and inner workings of this modern version of the legendary El Primero caliber. It’s a great reminder that Zenith introduced the best (in my book) of the three first automatic chronograph movements when they first came out in 1969.
Taking steps to create a better bracelet
The watch comes fitted with a three-row Oyster-style bracelet that shows Zenith has greatly improved its bracelets. The outer links feature a brushed finish with polished chamfers, while the center links are fully polished. I love this contrast because it brings a certain visual brilliance to the bracelet. But I must admit that the mirror-polished surface easily picks up fingerprints, which made me feel like I had to wipe it down regularly.
The bracelet includes a nice fold-over clasp with an extra security lock. Only a couple of years ago, I would have to defend Zenith bracelets for having a lot of ’70s charm, which I’m still fully behind. But this Chronomaster Original bracelet and clasp feel sturdier and much more modern. The bracelet is fairly easy to size thanks to the double-screw pins. The one thing missing is a toolless micro-adjustment system, which would make this an even better modern bracelet.
Wearing the Zenith Chronomaster Original
Wearing the Chronomaster Original was an interesting experience. First, I was mesmerized by the dial. This black version of the standard A386 dial works super well. As I mentioned, it feels like it has been a part of Zenith’s history for decades. As with previously reviewed Zenith models, I quickly fell in love with all the little details that make many of the brand’s dials so likable. After taking in the beauty of the dial, another thing immediately stood out.
Daan addressed this in his review of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, but it’s also present with the regular version. The Chronomaster Original case feels a bit like an overpass on the wrist. Because the lugs almost lie on top of the case, the only part resting on the wrist is the case back. This resulted in a bit of space between the lugs and my wrist. Funnily enough, though, this didn’t bother me for a second.
Sometimes a watch takes you by surprise
Yes, I love it when a watch hugs my wrist with its case back and lugs. But this Chronomaster Original sits comfortably on my wrist without ever feeling thick or weird. After the initial surprise, I quickly found myself enjoying the watch a lot. If you look straight at the watch while wearing it, you would not have a clue that there is a little gap between the lugs and your wrist. Add the fact that it doesn’t affect the overall comfort, and the reality of wearing it easily debunks a theoretical problem.
Another thing that stands out is the watch’s tremendous wrist presence. Thanks to the vibrant dial and brilliant case, the Chronomaster Orignal caught my eye multiple times a day. The one thing I enjoyed was the length of the lugs. Those with smaller wrists might have issues with the fairly long lugs, but this case has perfect proportions for my 18.5cm (7.3″) wrist.
I also loved playing with the chronograph. A firm click of the upper pump-style pusher launches the red central chronograph hand that starts flying around the dial. Sure, it doesn’t serve any specific purpose for me, but it’s fun to see the watch come to life with one click of the pusher. As a result, I played around with it more than I had expected, and you should have seen my smile while doing so.
The black-dial Zenith Chronomaster Original has my name on it
After only a day of wearing this Chronomaster Original, I mentioned to multiple Fratello team members that this watch had my name on it. But I also knew that was only half the truth. You see, this Chronomaster Original confirmed what I have known for years and have hinted at multiple times in different articles here on Fratello: it’s time to start chasing the first Zenith from that long list of potential options I mentioned at the beginning of this article. If I can easily mention 10 models I would love to own and have so much fun wearing one of the Chronomaster Originals, it’s time to seize the day.
I could easily see myself creating a small collection of Zenith Chronomaster models in the long term. The variety and creativity of the different versions offer plenty to keep me going for a while. And how does this black-dial version of the original fit into the picture? I admit that it’s high up the list. The simple reason is that it combines the original tri-colored sub-dials with a base dial color that I prefer over the original white version. Initially, I thought Zenith could never beat the original colors of the A386, but I was wrong.
After wearing this watch, I found it easily qualifies as one of my top three Chronomaster Original models. On top of that, it has defined my new collecting perspective for the coming years. That makes it a powerful personal statement, and it’s largely thanks to the simple change of the dial color. As mentioned, sometimes true magic is right before your eyes, and you just have to seize the opportunity. That’s exactly what the Zenith designers have done with this version of the Chronomaser Original.
What do you think of it? Do you prefer the tricolor registers on a black dial rather than a white one, or are you more of a purist? Let me know in the comments!
