Introducing: Breguet Classique 5177 And 7787 — Now In Platinum With Black Grand Feu Enamel Dials

The Breguet Classique line — contrary to what its name suggests — always reminds me of Baroque music. I can hear Scarlatti when I see the coin-edge cases, welded lugs, swirly Breguet numerals, and guilloché or enameled dials. They exude the same regal, exalted, masterful feeling as Mikhail Pletnev interpreting Scarlatti on piano.

Today’s release is a little bit different, though. This time, the Breguet Classique goes heavy metal — platinum, to be precise. Moody black dials underscore this turn towards darkness. The Shigeru Kawai concert grand piano makes way for an Ibanez guitar through a dimed Mesa Boogie amp. The question is: is the music still masterful?

The Breguet Classique and platinum

I will admit the above is quite a lot of fanfare to announce two new versions of existing watches. However, you may be surprised to learn that this is quite a big deal. Traditionally, Breguet Classique watches are 18K gold. You will find examples in white gold, rose gold, and yellow gold, but platinum? Not so much!

In fact, it is an exceedingly rare material within the Classique line. You have to resort to very exotic versions, such as the Hora Mundi or certain tourbillon models, to find a platinum example. The material was simply not available on the more restrained end of the catalog. Until today, that is. So, if you consider yourself a Breguet connoisseur, this may be a big day for you. If you do not, these are still certainly worth a closer look.

Breguet Classique 5177

Both the 5177 and the 7787 are existing models. The Classique 5177 saw the light of day almost 20 years ago, in 2006. Many versions exist in different gold hues and with your choice of a guilloché or enameled dials. When choosing enamel, you were limited to white and blue options before today’s introduction. This new version is identical to those existing models except for its platinum case and black enameled dial.

This means it still measures 38mm across by 8.8mm thick. You still get the fluted case band and welded lugs that are so characteristic of the line. Inside still ticks the 237-part automatic caliber 777 with a power reserve of 55 hours. In typical Grand Feu enamel fashion, the black dial is deep and glossy, and it features silver printing for a nice and soft contrast.

Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 7787

Breguet has produced the Classique Phase de Lune 7787 since 2011, but it traces its roots to a pocket watch from the 18th century. As with the 5177, before today, you could choose between gold alloys and guilloché or enameled dials. Again, it is the combination of platinum and black enamel that is new here.

The case still measures 39mm across by 10.3mm thick. You will still find the automatic caliber 591 DRL inside. Breguet rates the caliber’s power reserve at 38 hours, and it is a beauty to behold. The barley-grain guilloché rotor alone justifies the sapphire window in the case back.

The Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 7787 is something of a design enigma. It should not work, but it does. There are so many elements on the dial side for the moonphase and power reserve displays. To make matters worse, they cross each other and don’t quite balance each other out in terms of visual weight. Nevertheless, for some inexplicable reason, this is still a beautiful watch to me. Perhaps the thinness of all of those elements provides them with the required air to breathe.

Initial impressions

Funnily, these watches do not feel like big news. Both the platinum case and the black Grand Feu enameled dials look so perfectly at home within the Classique shape that they feel familiar. However, unlike most “new dial color” announcements, this is a bit more. The specific combination of the materials and colors used provides these watches with a cleaner, more focused look. In particular, the oddly complicated 7787 somehow seems highly legible.

My one gripe — although this was always present on the 5177 — is the date window. I don’t mind it as much on the guilloché versions, as the sideways Roman “III” next to it marks a clear separation. On the enamel versions, however, I cannot help but see a three-digit number.

I think these two new versions of the 5177 and 7787 make a lot of sense for Breguet. Are they setting the watch world ablaze? No. Should Breguet set the watch world ablaze? No. These are just beautiful new variations on Breguet’s Classique theme. Are they still masterful? I would say so. The platinum 5177 costs €48,500, and the 7787 comes in at €51,800.

What do you think of these new additions to the Breguet Classique line? Let us know in the comments below!