Introducing: The 2025 Tank Louis Cartier With An Automatic Movement And A Guilloché Dial
You’ve already seen the header image, so you know exactly what watch this article is about. However, when I say, “Roman numerals, railway track, parallel brancards, blued-steel sword hands, and a beaded crown with a cabochon on top,” what do you envision? Of course, that can only be a Cartier Tank. At Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, Cartier introduces a new and refined version of what is probably one of La Maison’s biggest icons — the Tank Louis Cartier. It’s slightly bigger because it houses an automatic movement, but it has a new guilloché dial and comes in yellow and rose gold.
Indeed, the Tank Louis Cartier wasn’t the brand’s first Tank. That honor goes to the original from 1917. In 2023, Cartier relaunched it for its Privé collection under the name Tank Normale. That watch has a square dial and more angular brancards. Its shape is very reminiscent of the Renault tanks that inspired the design. The more elegant Tank Louis Cartier originates from 1922. Its dial is rectangular, its brancards are fully polished and rounded, and it is the Cartier Tank model most worn by countless famous people over the years. The current version of Tank Louis Cartier debuted in 2017 for the 100th anniversary of the Tank. Today, Cartier introduces a new version of it. Let’s take a look.
The 2025 Tank Louis Cartier
While quite a lot has changed on the new Tank Louis Cartier (LC), the perfect proportions remain. However, it is bigger than the previous Tank LC models. The watch has a diameter of 27.8mm, and the rounded and polished brancards are 38.1mm long. This Tank is also just over 8.2mm thick. All these adjustments were necessary because the new Tank LC comes with the automatic Cartier 1899 MC movement. This is not the first time the Tank LC has housed an automatic caliber. For example, in the ’70s, there was also a larger Tank LC with a self-winding movement. But most of the large Tank Louis Cartier models in the brand’s current collection have a hand-wound movement, a 25.5mm diameter, a 33.7mm length, and a 6.6mm thickness.
The other new feature of the new Tank Louis Cartier is its guilloché dial with a hand-applied radiant sunburst pattern. Cartier didn’t mention anything about the dial material, but I suspect it has enamel on top. Above that in thick and shiny lacquer are the famous Roman numerals, the railroad minute track, the Cartier logo, and the “Automatic” text. I’m sure the dial is a spectacle in person when it reflects the light. Two signature blued-steel sword-style hour and minute hands indicate the time. There’s no running seconds hand, just like on many other automatic Cartier watches (my Santos Galbée XL, for example). Honestly, I’m glad Cartier left that out.
The automatic 1899 MC movement
With the beaded cabochon-set crown, you can operate the automatic 1899 MC movement inside the new Tank Louis Cartier. Just so you know, that number is the year the Cartier boutique at 13 Rue de la Paix in Paris opened its doors. The movement was developed in 2019, and it also powered the updated Cartier Tank Américaine from 2023, for example. It runs at a frequency of 28,800vph, features 23 jewels, and holds a power reserve of 40 hours. Of course, it’s convenient to have a self-winding caliber inside a watch. However, not winding your Tank LC and casually wearing it with the hands indicating 10:10 indefinitely is a thing of the past now.
The movement isn’t visible through an exhibition case back. Instead, it lies behind a solid yellow or rose gold cover. That metal depends on which version you choose to buy, of course. The case only has a 3ATM water resistance rating, so it’s probably safe to avoid swimming with the watch. Plus, the semi-matte gray or brown alligator strap won’t handle that situation very well anyway.
Quick thoughts
I was very excited when I heard the new Tank Louis Cartier had an automatic caliber and saw the beautiful guilloché pattern on the dial. Those are two features I very much appreciate in any watch. Admittedly, the case’s larger size makes me wonder about its wearability, but I’ll refrain from judgment until I’ve seen the watch in person. At the time of writing this article, the prices for the 2025 Tank Louis Cartier in yellow or rose gold are not available yet. As soon as we have those, we’ll update the article accordingly.
At first sight, what do you think of the updated Tank Louis Cartier? Let me know in the comments below.
