Introducing: The Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof
There are always surprises at the major watch shows. This year, one of the unexpected releases was the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof, a recreation of a manual-wind ’60s watch. The size and some other touches are true to the original.
The big names dominate the scene at a show like Watches and Wonders. We spend hours predicting their releases, but it’s good to look at the news from the smaller brands. Alpina isn’t small, but the brand releases watches throughout the year. Perhaps this is why news of the new Heritage Tropic-Proof came as such a surprise.
The original Alpina Tropic-Proof
In the ’60s, it seems that all brands were offering watches that could withstand some level of water exposure. Whether it was daily life in the rain or participating in sporting activities, water resistance was in demand. Case maker François Borgel enjoyed high levels of success due to this need because of its water-resistant cases. Brands like Movado, Mido, Patek Philippe, Doxa, and more used the highly finished cases with their trademark decagonal case backs. Alpina joined the fray with its Tropic-Proof. These relatively simple 34mm stainless steel watches came with black or silvery-white dials and tritium lume.
The new reissue
Alpina’s new Heritage Tropic-Proof is an unexpected pleasant surprise. Many brands use a vintage model as inspiration and add modern details, such as size or a date window. With few exceptions, Alpina chose not to do any of this! As a result, the watches maintain 34mm stainless steel cases. There’s a choice of either a glossy black or white dial. Each comes with a tan Alcantara strap and a stainless pin buckle. In place of an acrylic crystal, though, Alpina chose domed sapphire. The depth rating is decidedly vintage at just 30 meters.
Nice vintage touches
Indeed, the Tropic-Proof bears the characteristic 10-sided case back from Borgel. The case back contains basic inscriptions, including the brand name, reference, serial number, and water resistance rating. From this angle, it’s also possible to see the vertical lugs that come straight out of the ’60s.
Glossy dials
Unlike the original dials with their sunray effects, the new Tropic-Proof models have glossy dial surfaces. This looks great on the black version, but I think a silvery finish would aid the lighter model. My other niggle is the logo on the dial. It’s simply too large and makes the watch look less expensive than it deserves. Otherwise, the applied indexes and dauphine hands with aged Super-LumiNova look great.
Hand-winding
As mentioned, most brands make too many modern concessions when reissuing a vintage-inspired piece. The latest Tropic-Proof is faithful to its ancestor with its hand-winding movement. Whereas the originals used an in-house movement, Alpina now uses the AL-480 (Sellita SW215). This reliable caliber has a frequency of 28,800vph and a power reserve of 42 hours. A nice tactile touch is the signed lozenge-shaped crown, a replica of the original Boninchi-supplied component.
On the wrist
I was fortunate to see the new Tropic-Proof at Watches and Wonders. Therefore, I can safely opine on whether the 34mm is an issue. The short answer is “no.” While I wasn’t able to measure the lug-to-lug dimensions, the watch felt normal with sufficiently long lugs. Plus, with a relatively slim bezel and sparse dial, it appears larger.
Also, I’m not typically a fan of Alcantara, but it works nicely on these watches. It lends a decidedly vintage look, but it’s comfortable and flexible.
Final thoughts
The new Heritage Tropic-Proof models retail for €1,795 and are not limited editions. That’s not inexpensive, but it’s hardly surprising considering that Alpina is a brand with authorized dealers, marketing, etc. The finishing and final products are certainly worth checking out at your local shop. In the end, it’s simply nice that a brand chose to make something as traditional as this.
