Introducing The Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40
A bombastic week of watch releases continues today with the new Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40. This new model carries on the strong trajectory of the Chronomat range since its relaunch and refresh in 2020. Curiously, this model foregoes the chronograph element of the “Chronomat” portmanteau (chronograph + automatic). Instead, the 40mm stainless steel collection focuses on its GMT complication and clean aesthetic. Yet, notable features such as the Rouleaux bracelet and bullet crown remain. As a huge fan and owner of the modern Chromomat, what are my feelings toward the new range? Read on and find out.
Breitling celebrates the success of its Chronomat at every opportunity, not just in the modern era but also as the model that brought it back from the brink. Following the passing of Willy Breitling and the relinquishing of control to Ernest Schneider, the Chronomat heralded a new design direction that defined Breitling’s collection for the next few decades. The Navitimer may be the iconic timepiece, but the Chronomat is highly significant for the Swiss brand. The continued success of the Chronomat is thanks to the revival of classic styling cues that went awry over the years. Bringing back the Rouleaux ammunition-belt-style bracelet returns a signature feature of the Chronomat to stand out among the brand’s expansive offerings. But don’t be fooled by the bracelet shape following the lines of the case. This is not an integrated bracelet, and it connects to traditional lugs with an end link and a spring bar.
Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40
The bracelet is a noticeable and unique design far more robust and substantial than the original ’80s execution. You may recognize the watch simply from the eye-catching bracelet. Earlier models could even be spotted on the wrist of comedian Jerry Seinfeld and his hit US sitcom Seinfeld, at least in the first half of the series. But what’s unusual about this GMT model is that there is no chronograph function. Now, this is not the first Chronomat without elapsed timing as the 36mm mid-size and 32mm small size also eschewed the chrono. But the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 is the first to include the GMT complication with only the time and date. In my view, it was something of a disappointment not to see the current Chronomat with the GMT hand and chronograph as in previous references.
Despite my initial reaction, the new collection has a sleek design, which I appreciate, and it targets a different consumer than typical Breitling maximalists. Owing to this is a new diameter of 40mm, which may appeal to the business-chic crowd. Considering the subtle crown guards, the round case should wear as the 40mm measurement suggests, but it will depend on your preferences. The thickness is 11.77mm compared to the 15.10mm case height of the Chronomat 42, so it will also sit low to the wrist. These dimensions might be necessary to some who prefer a watch to “slide under a cuff.” But I’d rather have a sleeve to fit the watch instead of a watch to fit the sleeve. The general construction and sparse indications contrast with the weird and wonderful IRONMAN Endurance Pro from last week, yet somehow, both are distinctly Breitling.
The worldly Chronomat Automatic GMT 40
The GMT function has long been considered the most usable wristwatch function outside of the time and date. Even if you’re not traveling, quickly checking the time in another zone improves communication and a sense of connectedness. This particular GMT is what is known as a “caller GMT”, meaning the 24-hour hand is independently adjustable. This setup suits a dual-region profession to track an additional timezone and the local time. Powering this dual-timezone display is the Breitling 32 movement with 42 hours of power reserve and automatic bidirectional winding. While the caliber is COSC-certified, it is not an in-house-developed mechanism and is derived from an ETA ébauche.
The anthracite dial is highly versatile and mixes brown and gray.
The distinctive red GMT hand indicates the second time on the dial side with the 24-hour scale printed on the rehaut. Interestingly, the bezel maintains the 60-minute scale with numerals at each rider tab and a lume pip at the 60-minute mark. The tabs are not removable as they are on the chronograph pieces, but they provide grip to rotate the unidirectional bezel in 120 clicks. Not engraving a secondary 24-hour scale on the bezel for triple-timezone functionality may have been a missed opportunity for Breitling. However, I concede the bezel may become distracting with further scales when this model is only a caller-style GMT. The dial color options include white, blue, black, green, and a versatile anthracite shade that mixes brown and gray. On all models, the red GMT hand corresponds with the GMT text on the dial, which is a logical relation.
Final thoughts and pricing
Accepting a non-chronograph model into the Chronomat collection is still challenging, especially in the gentlemanly 40mm size. But I admit that the execution is deserving of the moniker. Of the dial choices, it’s hard to go wrong, but the anthracite version is the most distinguished. Breitling also delivers a lovely blue, but I am not a fan of the brand’s sickly sweet green dials. This one is a bit too saturated, perhaps, and I’d prefer a more olive-green sheen. Also, the green is the only model outside of the white dial to have a white date disc. Considering the deeper shade of the green dial, a black date disc with white printing may have been more appropriate. Even so, the implementation of the aperture at 6 o’clock is seamless and blends in with the rectangular baton indices. Within the hands and indices is Super-LumiNova luminescence that shines with a green glow.
As is the current trend, the dial only features the “B” logo, which is consistent with the range. Only the Professional and Avenger collections have the anchor-and-wings logo, with the new Navitimer featuring the AOPA-style logo. The stylized “B” is also repeated on the counterbalance of the central seconds hand. The new Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 maintains the impressive 200m depth rating despite not having a screw-down crown, unlike the chronograph models. Helping to achieve this water resistance is the solid steel case back with a brushed center. Keeping the Chronomat affixed is the seamless butterfly clasp, however, there is no micro-adjust for the bracelet. In stainless steel, the non-limited Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 is available for £4,700 for all dials. You can find out more on the official Breitling website.
