Introducing: The Breitling Top Time B31 With A New And Exclusive Three-Hand Movement
In 2020, Breitling revived its Top Time collection. Since then, we’ve seen many two- and three-register chronographs with playful and colorful dials. Many of those watches were part of a collaboration with Deus, Ford, or Triumph, for example. In a sense, Breitling’s Top Time collection is like its Hot Wheels department. Today, the Grenchen-based brand is introducing three non-chronograph models that carry the Top Time name. Powering them is the automatic B31, a new three-hand movement that’s exclusive to Breitling.
This move to three-hand versions of what used to be chronographs seems to be a recurring theme at Breitling. Watches like the Chronomat and the Navitimer have already undergone the same process. This allows the brand to transfer the beloved aesthetics to smaller cases and introduce them with cleaner dials. Let’s see how the designers did that in the case of the new Breitling Top Time B31.
The new Breitling Top Time B31
Since the reintroduction of the Breitling Top Time in 2020, most watches have featured a case with a 41mm diameter. The new three-hand Top Time B31 has a 38mm case made of brushed and polished stainless steel. The shape, including the tapered lugs, is the same as the chronograph versions of Top Time. This time, though, there are no pushers on the right side, of course. With a shrunken diameter also comes a slimmer 10.3mm thickness, compared to the 13.3mm profile of the automatic chronographs. Finally, the case offers a 45.8mm lug-to-lug span, a 4.5mm reduction from the chronograph versions.
The new Breitling Top Time B31 comes with the buyer’s choice of a stainless steel bracelet or a matching perforated leather strap with a pin buckle. The bracelet has a three-row construction with brushed links on the outside, and its polished center links have Breitling’s signature asymmetrical shape. Within the folding clasp is a lever-operated micro-adjustment system. Thanks to this, it’s easy to slightly adjust the size of the bracelet without any tools.
Three colorways
As mentioned, the distinctive feature of Breitling’s modern Top Time collection is its more playful and multicolor design. This theme continues in the three-hand versions of the Top Time with the use of different colors on the dials and hands. To start, you can choose between three dials. One has a slightly textured white surface and a light blue ring with five-minute markings on the perimeter. The second option has a vertically brushed blue base combined with a white ring. Finally, there’s a vertically brushed green dial paired with a black ring. No matter the dial color, all versions feature a central seconds hand with an orange paint job extending from the tip to the circular mounting point.
The applied hour markers resemble the design of the hands, and all these elements include a good dose of Super-LumiNova. Below the double index at 12 is an applied golden Breitling logo, and at 3 o’clock, you can find the date window with a rounded rectangular magnifier above it.
The new and exclusive B31 automatic movement
To the right of the date window is a signed push-pull crown, which allows you to operate the new Breitling B31 automatic movement. The development of this caliber took four years. For the manufacturing of parts, Breitling relies on its network of trusted suppliers. The assembly of the B31 movements takes place both at the Breitling manufacture and at a dedicated line at AMT, the technological arm of Sellita, in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
The movement features a free-sprung balance wheel, a skeletonized rotor, Côtes de Genève on the bridges, and perlage on the mainplate. All this is visible through the exhibition case back. The new three-hand movement runs at a frequency of 28,800vph, features 26 jewels, and holds a comfortable power reserve of 78 hours. Like any mechanical Breitling movement, the B31 receives a COSC chronometer certification. This means it runs between -4 and +6 seconds a day.
In addition, the movements undergo rigorous testing that Breitling says is equivalent to 16 years of use. This includes 100,000 crown winds, 3,456,000 weight turns, and 60,000 shocks at 500 g. Finally, the new Top Time B31 is water resistant to 100 meters.
Impressions
I’ve always liked the Top Time chronographs with their playful, colorful designs, but they’re a bit too big for my taste. The 38mm size of the Top Time B31 is great for people with slightly smaller wrists, like me. With the sub-46mm lug-to-lug, the new Top Time three-hander feels great on my 17cm wrist. The cleaner dials are indeed reminiscent of the chronograph versions, but with the absence of sub-dials, there’s just a little less room to play with colors. I’m curious to see which other versions will come out in the future, perhaps in collaboration with Deus, Triumph, or Ford.
The new Breitling Top Time B31 costs €5,500 on a perforated leather strap. On the stainless steel bracelet, the watches cost €5,800. That seems like a logical price next to the stainless steel chronograph versions of the Top Time, which sell for €7,800 on straps.
Let me know in the comments below what you think of the new Breitling Top Time B31 in green, blue, and white!
