Introducing: The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is a remarkably impressive watch. It’s a tourbillon with a total thickness of just 1.85mm. This makes it the thinnest tourbillon-equipped timepiece ever. Let’s take a look.
Bvlgari has had remarkable success with its Octo Finissimo line. The brand rightly points out that its designs have received more than 60 international awards and have set 10 world records. In 2014, Bvlgari introduced the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. Its hand-wound movement was just 1.95mm thick.
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton from 2022
A proudly Italian maison
In fact, Bvlgari has made a name for itself in the pursuit of thin watches. Since 2014, the brand has produced record-breaking innovations across multiple categories. This includes the world’s thinnest minute repeater at 3.12mm, the Octo Finissimo Automatic at just 2.23mm, and the thinnest perpetual calendar ever at 2.75mm. That watch received the Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).
Bvlgari is fiercely proud of its Italian heritage. The octagonal shape of the Octo Finissimo line is inspired by the coffered ceilings of the Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine. Rome and its culture, architecture, and history have inspired the company since its founding in 1884.
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Now Bvlgari has released the Octo Tourbillon Ultra. This integrates a skeletonized tourbillon into the movement, and the whole case measures an astounding 1.85mm thick. This makes it the thinnest-ever tourbillon watch, not just the thinnest tourbillon caliber. The case also measures 40mm in diameter. Inside it ticks the BVF900 tourbillon caliber. This is a hand-wound movement beating at 4Hz (28,800vph) frequency. The caliber offers a 42-hour power reserve when fully wound.
In a press statement, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the executive director of watch design at Bvlgari, said: “The idea was to create a watch that encapsulates all our expertise. It’s not just about having the finest design but achieving a precise execution that tells the story of the Octo Finissimo series while respecting the integrity of its distinctive aesthetic codes.”
Left to right: Octo Finissimo Ultra, Ultra Tourbillon, and Ultra COSC
Groundbreaking production techniques
Bvlgari said that producing the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon required eight new patents. These covered innovations such as the “differential display, the integrated case middle and plate design, the bi-material case back, a new crystal mounting method, a novel barrel structure, the oscillator module, the modular construction, and the bracelet design.”
Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon features a bezel, case, and lugs made of titanium. The mainplate, however, is fashioned from tungsten carbide, and the two crowns are made of stainless steel. The crown on the right side is for setting the time, while the one on the left is in charge of winding the movement. The bracelet is no less technically impressive. Also fashioned from titanium, it is just 1.5mm thick (including the clasp). It looks as if it would hug the wrist nicely. The dial uses rhodium-plated hour and minute hands set against sand-blasted brass.
Concluding thoughts on the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is a watch that stands well outside the possibility of me ever owning one. It costs €750,000 and is a limited edition of 20 pieces. But the sheer amount of technical complexity in achieving this level of thinness means the price makes sense. In a statement to the media, Bvlgari’s CEO Jean-Christophe Babin captures what I think is part of the brand’s philosophy: “Each record has been a stepping stone. Setting a record isn’t just about crossing barriers – it’s about redefining what’s possible in mechanical watchmaking. With each challenge, we’ve had to rethink not only traditional techniques but also how watches are designed and developed.”
It’s fair to say that the folks at Bvlgari have long been interested in pushing the limits, and they have managed to do so yet again. While this is a watch I could never hope to afford, it is certainly a timepiece I can appreciate from a distance. The brand generally provides unique designs and seems to be going from strength to strength. Bravo, Bvlgari!
