Introducing: The Colorful Charm Of The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour

Fears Watches is one of the small-brand success stories of this decade. Nicholas Bowman-Scargill revived his family’s brand with the Redcliff in 2016. Since 2020, the brand seems to have gone from strength to strength, and the new Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour shows this.

This year the brand opened a boutique in its hometown of Bristol, further strengthening the ties to its storied past. The Fears range keeps growing and now spans 38mm delights like the OG Brunswick and everyday sports watches like the reintroduced Redcliff.

The inspiration behind the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour

If you’re an avid Fratello reader, you might have seen Ben’s story from 2023 on the Fears Christopher Ward Alliance 01. The collaboration sans the usual “×” marked a close-knit relationship celebrating the British watch scene. Consider the Alliance 01 launched in the first month of 2023 as the inspiration for the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour. It was available in a mere 50 pieces, exclusively for members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. It signified the start of a strong year for British brands and an organization that, since its 2020 inception, has aimed to promote and underline the resurgence of watchmaking on the fair Isles of Great Britain.

Nicholas Bowman-Scargill recently revisited this collaborative effort, and this week, he told me more in a call:

“The Alliance 01 was envisioned as a one-off collaboration between Christopher Ward and Fears. And though there was a temptation to release it as a core piece, we held off. However, I purchased one for my collection and loved the watch. I enjoyed the beauty of the negative space on the dial and the fact that it is a blend of traditional and modern. A jumping-hour display is an incredibly practical way of telling the time, which I appreciated while wearing it. So it was a case of speaking with [the folks at] Christopher Ward and persuading them to let us use the movement. We took the design of the Alliance 01, which our in-house designer has refreshed and updated. It was a lot of work, but we want to add a little more Fears to it.”

40.5mm of minimal splendor

With a spare display to show you the time, the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour makes the negative space on the dial play a big part in any first impression. The premise of the new model is set within the same ergonomic cushion form of the Brunswick, but the case design has been modified. At 12.8mm thick, this case is slightly more substantial than the standard Brunswick due to the Christopher Ward-designed JJ01. This is a 25-jewel Swiss-made caliber based on the evergreen Sellita SW200-1 with a 38-hour power reserve, and a proprietary jump-hour module explains the increased thickness.

Knowing the short-lugged and ergonomic Brunswick, this will still be a comfortable daily wearer. It is an elegant piece, but the jump-hour display is crisp in its legibility, and I’m sure it’ll draw plenty of attention to your curated wrist-worn choice. The main difference from the Alliance 01 is increased clarity for the minute readout. The hour is prominently shown in a circular framed aperture at 12 o’clock and will snap onto the next as the minute hand passes it. The jump-hour display is cut into a slim, beveled chapter ring, and a bolder one encircles the minute scale. Both have a circular-brushed surface, while the inner chapter ring is discreetly wider than that of the 2022 collaborative model, offering a clean and readable minute track. To me, the lack of a running seconds hand only emphasizes the strength of the minimal design.

A splash of color or a sartorial touch

I am a big fan of jump-hour watches and have a much more modern one in my collection. But with the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, the Fears design team has straddled modernity and classicism. At the same time, one of the models reminds me of a personal grail from Chanel. That’s right. The Raven Black version would normally not be my natural choice, but here, it exudes a strong monochrome confidence. I also see some traces of the Chanel Monsieur, a watch I adore. The black Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour has an outer dial area with a sunray finish, an azurage inner dial, and a circular-brushed minute chapter ring with crisp white numerals. The slim outer ring is brushed and has beveled edges, making an interesting shape-play with the hour aperture.

The Coral version goes in a completely different direction, offering an ultra-fresh dash of modernity, while all dial details are black in sharp contrast. It also has a glossy lacquered and hand-polished surface that accentuates the bold color choice and all-black dial details.

Mallard Green returns

Style-wise, the return of Nicholas Bowman-Scargill’s Mallard Green sits between the Raven Black and Coral versions. Lovers of classic sports cars might recognize the deep green as a traditional MG color. This version is also a boutique-exclusive model. Like the black version of the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, the chapter rings and framed jumping hour play with the light. You’ll also notice that they match the language found in the Brunswick case itself. Unlike the two others, the Mallard Green version has its minute markers on a brushed steel chapter ring. A keen eye will notice a slight slope on its inner edge, a strong detail. All three models manage to keep their identities while offering something different. This is a bold move in 2024 when big brands play it safe with designs to ensure their revenue.

A barely concealed subjective verdict

The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour is not about chronometry, boast-worthy depth ratings, or material tech, so there’s less point in objectivity. It is a delightfully polarizing design and a show of strength from a British brand on the rise. To me, it only emphasizes Bowman-Scargill’s faith. It is a well-founded faith in a brand that has carved out its niche in the small world of British watchmaking. And thanks to Nicholas’s enthusiastic persona, Fears seems to be on a roll.

The brand chose wisely by introducing the contrasting choices of a sartorial black and flashy coral. Both will offer strong impressions on the wrist and appeal to two different buyers. And if you happen to be near Bristol, the allure of Mallard Green will surely make you visit the Fears boutique. The Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour retails for £4,250 with VAT (£3,541.67 without) on a handmade leather strap and £4,450 with VAT (£3,708.34 without) on a five-row stainless steel bracelet. Visit the Fears Watches website to find out more. And Fratelli, please comment below with your thoughts about jump-hour watches. Perhaps this could be a resurgence, if and it is, I’ll welcome it with open arms.