Introducing: The Fleming Series 1 Tantalum
Today, we bring news of a much-anticipated debut. The Fleming Series 1 is finally here, and we were able to go hands-on with a pre-production Tantalum model. This is a stunner in the truest sense, but I warn you that it isn’t an entry-level watch. This watch has an all-star cast behind it. Let’s take a look.
It was June 2023 when Fleming dropped its first Instagram post. Since then, dribs and drabs have made it to the brand’s account, revealing small details of the Fleming Series 1. Now, after a sizable amount of anticipation, we get to see the results. Rose gold and platinum make up two of the offerings. Our hands-on was with the third variant, the Tantalum. This is one of the most impressive watches we’ve seen in some time, and, quite honestly, it should be with all the names behind its creation.
The Fleming brand
The story behind Fleming is interesting. It starts like that of many microbrands. Thomas Fleming, the owner of the brand, is a young American who happened to develop a deep interest in watches. Unlike many affordable microbrands, however, Fleming took a very different path in creating the Fleming Series 1. He decided to work with some Swiss-based firms that are reserved for high-end Haute Horologerie. The Series 1 claims design chops from Neodesis in Le Locle, while Jean-François Mojon from Chronode developed the movement. The component-making is handled by TMH SA in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and Comblémine, which is partially owned by Kari Voutilainen, is responsible for the dials. Finally, Efteor SA has crafted the tantalum cases. Essentially, this watch is from an all-star lineup of high-end Swiss suppliers.
The Fleming Series 1 Tantalum
The Fleming Series 1 is a time-only dress watch with a 38.5mm tantalum case. It features horned lugs that bring the lug-to-lug distance to 46.5mm. A thick tantalum bezel combined with the lugs creates a design that wouldn’t have looked out of place 75 years ago. At just 9mm thick, including the domed sapphire crystal, this is a highly wearable watch.
The case profile reveals a hollowed-out lug design that must have been a challenge to create in tantalum. It results in a polished mid-case sandwiched by two matte layers that flow into the lugs. The design appears complex and offers something different than a plain, single-surface case flank. This hollow form is duplicated on the matching tantalum pin buckle.
The dial, though, is where this watch absolutely sings. Whereas other Fleming Series 1 models use lovely guilloché, the tantalum version opts for something even more sublime. The central portion of the primary dial and the entire sub-dial are made of aventurine. Here, the highly fragile quartzite comes in a sparkling, purply-blue shade. Surrounding this is frosted platinum, creating one of the loveliest modern sector dials that I’ve witnessed. These matte finishes contrast well with the polished indices and hands. The minute and seconds tracks, with their clean instrument-like layouts, complete the look. All in all, this is a lovely dial.
An impressive movement
The Fleming Series 1 uses a Chronode-designed FM-01 caliber. This hand-wound movement features twin barrels, which help it achieve a seven-day power reserve. The ratchet wheels on top of the barrels each contain the Fleming motif. Note the power reserve indicator on the top right of the movement. While the Series 1 contains plenty of traditional design cues and hand-finished anglage, the brand opted for modern black polishing on much of the movement.
Lovely on the wrist
Aside from the dimensions, the Fleming Series 1 has a case shape that works well on a wide variety of wrist sizes. It’s bold enough to please those who enjoy larger watches. Yet, due to the brand’s intense focus on creating lugs that curve down beautifully, it hugs the wrists of those who prefer smaller dress watches. For a dress watch, I think this watch is perfectly modern without being too large.
Limited and dear
The Fleming Series 1 Tantalum will be produced as a limited run of just 25 individually numbered pieces. The watch will go on sale for CHF 45,500 and includes one year of insurance that covers both theft and damage. Fleming plans to begin deliveries in April and will produce 5–10 watches per month. This is certainly not an inexpensive watch, but I’m in love with the tantalum case design and have a crush on aventurine. Then, add a sultry hand-wound movement, and the package only becomes more attractive. For certain, there is plenty of competition at this price from mainstay brands like Patek, Audemars, and Lange. Other independents, such as Laurent Ferrier, also play in this league. Still, with just 25 pieces, I predict that this watch will sell out quite easily. I also look forward to what comes after this first series.
For more information on the Series 1, visit the official Fleming site.
