Introducing: The Genus GNS2 — Radical Chic With A Blue Twist

Swiss brand Genus is known for the quirky extravagance of the GNS1. It won the GPHG award for Mechanical Exception in 2019 and spawned some delightful variations. We also know the challenges of the “second album” for any hot new artist, as well as for wristwear. By introducing the Genus GNS2, I feel the brand is on the right, modern track. And it is a twisted figure-eight track that will confound you.

I must admit to being ever-more excited about modernity in watchmaking and moving away from my previous love of retro. I mean, with over 10 years since the debut of the Tudor Black Bay, which has now morphed into a brand within a brand, surely we are nearing a saturation point, regardless of whether you call it “nouveau retro” or “vintage-inspired.” Whichever term you choose, modernity is on the rise, and it’s about time. After all, it’s 2024.

Genus the brand

Master Watchmaker Sébastien Billières and Catherine Henry, the company’s COO (not the watchmaker in the shot above), embrace lateral thinking in their design language. And there is good reason for the brand to have won a GPHG award with its debut model in 2019. I tend to applaud the creative output of indie brands like MB&F, Urwerk, and Ressence. It’s not for everyone, but the ethos should be. Otherwise, all progress will surely be lost. Would you want your car to look and feel like a cramped mustard-yellow ’70s sedan or a spacious hybrid with a glass roof and an intuitive touchscreen? When we make that comparison, perhaps the traditional world of watches needs to catch up, and the Genus GNS2 is sowing a seed for change.

The Genus GNS2

Any Genus watch is about the creative time display and 26-jewel in-house movement, but first, let’s look at the 43mm case. Rendered this time in Grade 5 titanium, the sweeping, smooth flanks remind me of a larger version of the Grand Seiko Elegance line. Contributing to its 18.8mm thickness is a huge box-type sapphire crystal sans bezel. Like the TAG Heuer Glassbox design, it simply curves down sharply into the case sides, offering a panoramic view of a very different dial layout than you’ll be used to. Despite its size, the watch will be light thanks to the titanium material, and the case sides are also hollowed out, adding a weight-saving, airy twist. Genus has not specified the lug-to-lug, but looking at the shots of the dramatic curvature, it seems that wrist-hugging comfort is indeed present.

But most eyes will indeed be on the dial, and it deserves it. There is a stepped rehaut with an hour-track for the three chevrons, while the dial background has a hand-hammered grainage finish. A traditional touch within this feast of modernity, it has applied arrowhead indices and exposed countersunk screws. Made in two parts with sharp anglage, they frame a figure-eight display for the minutes. And that’s where it gets very different and delightfully twisty.

A study in complexity

As debuted in the GNS1, the two displays are interconnected by a track that holds the three origami-like blued chevrons. Now focus. The chevrons travel around the right side of the top display to indicate the first 0–15 minutes, then switch snake-like to show 15–45 counterclockwise around the 6 o’clock register. Are you still with me? From where the two registers meet at 45 minutes, the chevrons once again travel clockwise around the top register to 60. It is as different as it is brilliantly executed, with the same base principle as shown in this hypnotizing video of the GNS1. It’s very different and legible once you get what’s going on, especially with three more chevrons traveling clockwise around the dial’s periphery to indicate the hours. But this is not about clarity, toughness, or depth ratings. No, this is a micro-architectural horological statement.

Favorite details

Viewed from the back, I love the juxtaposition of modern touches and traditional finishing within the gorgeous three-quarter-covered movement. Compound curves and fine anglage belies the futurist front view, and I adore the blued bridge holding the large balance wheel. There is simply a lot to unpack in the GNS2, making it a journey of discovery for a new owner. For me, the clean monochrome with sparkling origami pops of blue makes the dial stand out a mile. The grained texture of the half-moon shapes that frame the twin vertically opposed registers makes the monochrome dial an interesting place. Finally, I applaud Genus for a very imaginative way of ensuring a grip on the crown, which has the brand’s letters encircling it.

A cutting-edge conclusion

Let’s address the elephant in the room first, the thickness. Yes, 18.8mm is fairly massive, even if it includes the box crystal. But does it matter? For a €61,360 watch, your priorities will not be everyday comfort since this is not something you’ll throw on for the carpool commute or an afternoon rugby match with friends. As we know, ergonomics means more than on-paper dimensions, and judging by the image above, Genus has nailed the deep lug-curvature comfort of the GNS2. But this is all about the jaw-dropping origami snake of their time display, made possible by a beautifully detailed proprietary movement.

The Genus GNS2 would easily be on my shortlist if I had the €61,360 (ex. VAT) budget. It might be a very different proposal, even to established collectors, but its rarity and pure innovation speak for themselves. Sure, your street cred (with the wrong crowd?) will be bigger with a traditional Vacheron, Patek, or Rolex, but who cares? This is about personal appreciation for the innovation and mechanical Easter eggs within a handcrafted watch. With that in mind, it is not expensive for cutting-edge tech with traditional finishing and one of 18 pieces. Have a closer look at Genus Watches.

What do you reckon, Fratelli? Is 43mm complexity for you, or would you prefer a more traditional path? Let me know in the comments.