Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition
In celebration of its quarter-century anniversary, Gerald Charles presents the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition. This is a jump-hour watch with an in-house-designed caliber. Naturally, the new timepiece features the brand’s signature baroque case shape, but it is fully modernized with Grade 5 titanium construction.
We’ve covered the majority of new releases from Gerald Charles over the past few years. The distinctive-looking watches always garner polarizing comments but allow me to repeat a public service message: try one on before casting a final judgment. The “smile” at the bottom of the case makes for a unique tank-like experience that works well on the wrist. Today’s Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition might be a bit more challenging to find due to its limited nature, but it’s still worth highlighting.
The Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition
The latest Gerald Charles release is a 42mm by 42mm watch made of Grade 5 titanium. It has sapphire crystals on both case sides and a 100m water resistance rating. In support of its everyday intent, the watch has a screw-down crown. Regarding the strap, Gerald Charles delivers the GC39 on royal-blue vulcanized rubber with a titanium deployant clasp.
An impressive dial
The Maestro GC39 introduces a new surface-finishing process for the dial. Gerald Charles has named this “meta-guillochage,” and it results in a sparkling finish that dances in the light. First, the dial’s surface is finely engraved and coated. Then, a second level of engraving is added before the protective coating is removed from the surface. Each engraving has a rounded finish, which enhances the sparkling effect. Lapis lazuli is responsible for the dial’s blue center. Finally, blued steel is used for the hands, outer minute markers, and a case-shaped frame within the dial. Overall, the look is cool, radiant, and clean.
Other details worth noting on the dial are the black outer minute track that follows the asymmetric case shape. There’s also an aperture at the top of the dial which reveals the current hour. Finally, note the “25” at the bottom of the dial. It’s a logo reserved for the brand’s novelties in 2025.
The Maestro GC39’s jump-hour movement
Unsurprisingly, the design for the GC39 came from a Gérald Genta drawing. He envisioned a watch similar to today’s piece. To realize that goal, the Gerald Charles team had to come up with a new movement. Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier makes the resulting caliber 4.0, but it contains various in-house-manufactured components. Interestingly, a jump-hour movement presents certain challenges. Moving the hour disc from one hour to the next expends as much energy as a typical movement over 3,600 seconds. Then, the hour disc is 25 times heavier than a traditional hour hand. This requires a special movement.
Caliber 4.0 has 265 components and 28 jewels, a significant increase compared to the brand’s typical automatic movements. It still offers a 50-hour power reserve and a frequency of 28,800vph. Regarding decorations, the movement contains radiating Côtes de Genève on the bridges and perlage on the mainplate. The brand’s typical honeycomb-styled oscillating rotor is also present.
Limited but lovely
The Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition is limited to just 100 pieces and will sell for €36,000. That’s not small money, but it’s hardly surprising considering where Gerald Charles competes. I like the design and the dial finishes. Jump-hour watches seem to be coming into vogue with several new releases at this year’s Watches and Wonders. Let’s see how the market reacts to these interesting complications.
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