Meet the new Grand Seiko SBGY040 and SBGW321, a pair of limited-edition watches made specifically for the European market. Similar to most exclusive releases from the brand, these also gain inspiration from Japanese nature. Gardens, specifically ponds and the colorful koi that inhabit them, help define the dial artistry.

Grand Seiko has mastered infusing the natural landscape into its dial designs. Today’s new SBGY040 and SBGW321 take cues from one of the most idyllic characteristics of Japan, the traditional garden. Within the garden, ponds and koi are typical. The colors are deep and rich, perfect backdrops for watch dials. Let’s briefly look at these pieces before returning with a follow-up hands-on article.

Grand Seiko SBGY040

The Grand Seiko SBGY040

The Grand Seiko SBGY040 is part of the Elegance collection and uses one of my favorite case designs. The slightly C-shaped case measures 38.5mm wide by 43.7mm long and 10.18mm thick. In this limited model, the case is crafted from 18K rose gold and comes on a blue 19mm crocodile strap with a matching 18K gold buckle. Grand Seiko equips the watch with a domed sapphire crystal and specifies a 3-bar water resistance rating.

The gentle ripples from a chisen teien (池泉庭園), or Japanese pond garden, are recreated on the dark blue dial. The pattern is fine and looks similar to enamel work. Like gentle waves, the dial reflects light and shows dark and bright tones. Wave designs aren’t new to watch dials, yet the finery of this interpretation feels novel. The dial is paired with gold dauphine hands and applied indices.

Inside, the SBGY040 uses the in-house 9R31 Spring Drive caliber. The 9R series of movements celebrates its 20th anniversary this year, and the 9R31 is a fitting achievement. This hand-winding movement is accurate to within ±1 second per day and has a power reserve of 72 hours. Grand Seiko will make just 20 of these watches and will sell them exclusively at its European boutiques. The price is €31,100 / £26,890.

Grand Seiko SBGW321

The Grand Seiko SBGW321

If the dark waters of a pond can inspire a watch, what about the pond’s most memorable inhabitants? Japanese carp, or nishikigoi (錦鯉), have provided visual stimulation and relaxation to viewers for centuries. Now the scales of these graceful fish can be found on the bright red dial of the SBGW321. Polished silver dauphine hands, applied steel indices, and a gold seconds hand pair well with the intricate dial.

The stainless steel Heritage SBGW321 model uses the classic 44GS case shape and measures 36.5mm wide, 42.7mm long, and 11.55mm thick. It also features a box-shaped sapphire crystal. Unlike the SBGY040, this piece has a 10-bar depth rating, but it will require a change from the 18mm black crocodile strap before swimming. For those who haven’t tried this case, it’s wonderful on the wrist and feels like a ’60s vintage model. Plus, this special dial makes it even more compelling.

Grand Seiko uses the familiar hand-winding 9S64 caliber in this model. The 24-jewel movement has 72 hours of power reserve and is accurate to +5/-3 seconds per day. A stainless steel screw-in case back protects the movement and bears each watch’s unique number of the 300 pieces available. The SBGW321 will be available for €6,100 / £5,920 at European authorized dealers.

Final thoughts

We will return with a hands-on review of the Grand Seiko SBGY040 and SBGW321 European limited editions. I expect to be dazzled when I see them in person and will hopefully capture the dials in good lighting. For now, feel free to check these out in your local Grand Seiko boutique — as long as you’re in Europe.

For more information on the SBGY040 and SBGW321, visit the official Grand Seiko site.

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
Elegance "Chisen Teien" (blue) / Heritage "Nishikigoi" (red)
Reference
SBGY040 (blue) / SBGW321 (red)
Dial
Blue wave pattern with applied rose gold indices / Red fish-scale pattern with applied steel indices
Case Material
18K rose gold (SBGY040) / Stainless steel (SBGW321)
Case Dimensions
38.5mm (diameter) × 43.7mm (lug-to-lug) × 10.18mm (thickness) (SBGY040) / 36.5mm (diameter) × 42.7mm (lug-to-lug) × 11.55mm (thickness) (SBGW321)
Crystal
Dual-curved sapphire with antireflective coating (SBGY040) / Box-shaped sapphire with antireflective coating (SBGW321)
Case Back
18K gold and sapphire crystal, screw-in (SBGY040) / Stainless steel, screw-in (SBGW321)
Movement
Grand Seiko 9R31: manual-winding Spring Drive, 72-hour power reserve, 30 jewels (SBGY040) / Grand Seiko 9S64: manual winding, 28,800vph frequency, 72-hour power reserve, 24 jewels (SBGW321)
Water Resistance
3 bar (SBGY040) / 10 bar (SBGW321)
Strap
Blue crocodile (19mm width) with 18K rose gold buckle (SBGY040) / Black crocodile (18mm width) with stainless steel buckle (SBGW321)
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, seconds) and power reserve indicator (SBGY040) / Time only (hours, minutes, seconds) (SBGW321)
Price
€31,100 / £26,890 (SBGY040) — €6,100 / £5,920 (SBGW321)
Warranty
Five years
Special Note(s)
European-market exclusives: Limited edition of 20 pieces (SBGY040) / Limited edition of 300 pieces (SBGW321)