Introducing: The Havid Nagan Classic One — The Los Angeles-Based Brand’s Third Model
If you have not heard of Havid Nagan, it is about time you did. F.P.Journe alumnus Aren Bazerkanian founded the brand in 2022, and he is doing things properly. Despite barely three years of the brand’s existence, Bazerkanian dropped his third watch recently: the Havid Nagan Classic One.
Havid Nagan does not follow your average microbrand’s route. Instead, it joins the growing ranks of higher-end independent brands with outsourced production. Although most heritage brands now focus on vertical integration and “everything in-house,” the traditional way of working was based on a brand forming a hub with external craftspeople and suppliers as spokes. Known as établissage, this approach is experiencing something of a revival, perhaps as an answer to the integration of mainstream brands. In any case, let’s jump from an industry-wide focus to the specific watch in front of us now.
The Havid Nagan Classic One’s complicated case
Starting with the basics, we see a 38mm stainless steel watch with a mere 9mm thickness. The case appears simple enough, but you will quickly discover that’s merely an illusion. No fewer than 29 parts constitute the slender case. You have to look closely to appreciate the refinements. Have a look at the scalloped lugs, for instance. The polished inner surfaces could not be realized if these lugs were a single part with the mid-case. The result makes the lug appear wider than it is, a neat visual trick.
Interestingly, the bezel consists of a single ring, but it features two textures. When I started inspecting the photos with the knowledge of the 29-part case, I fully expected this to be two stacked bezels. The outer rim features circular brushing, while the inner ring is polished.
A sapphire sandwich offers a clear view of both the dial and the caliber underneath it. Four screws hold the case back in place. The entire package comes with a 5ATM water resistance rating.
Inside the Havid Nagan Classic One
Previous Havid Nagan models used calibers from Schwarz Etienne. This time around, Bazerkanian opted for AMT, Sellita’s high-end custom skunkworks. The distinctly modern-looking AMT6600 is partly skeletonized and neatly finished throughout. You will find 5N-galvanized plates, some anglage, and ruthenium treatment. The stark, modern lines over a rose-gold-finished mainplate marry the traditional to the modern.
The hand-wound caliber comes with a COSC certification, running within +6/-4 seconds per day. It also offers an approximately 62-hour power reserve from a single barrel when fully wound.
A classic yet modern dial
The theme of marrying the old and the new continues on the dial side. You can have your pick of ivory or ebony. The hands, indexes, and sub-dial layout follow a very traditional Calatrava recipe. The execution, however, is radically different.
The central portion of the dial and the “island” sub-dial are galvanized brass. They sit atop a lower dial with a hobnail guilloché pattern. Look closely, though, and you will see the sub-dial sits in a thin sapphire layer, which has the minute and seconds tracks printed on it. This makes the printing appear to be floating 0.2mm above the hobnail layer.
Initial impressions of the Havid Nagan Classic One
Let me preface this by stating I have not been able to handle the Havid Nagan Classic One (yet). To me, execution is everything in this genre and segment, and it does not translate well into photography. Therefore, my initial impressions are based on design and concept alone.
I love the case. The dimensions sound perfect, and the scalloped lugs look unique without trying too hard. Most often, when new brands want to do something new, the result is contrived and awkward. Thankfully, there’s none of that here!
I am less convinced by the dial. I like the layered effect and the combination of modern construction and vintage elements. However, the proportions do not feel quite right to me. The handset feels a little overpowering compared to the indexes, and the hobnail sections feel a bit wide. Granted, this could all fall into place when I see the watch in real life.
What’s next?
As my regular readers will know, I have great sympathy for these young David-versus-Goliath watch brands. It is extremely challenging in a conservative world like ours to get a foothold. You must convince manufacturers to work with you, even if you only sell small numbers. Similarly, you have to convince collectors to come to you rather than an established name.
Especially when you want to get the little details right — and you operate at the higher price point that comes with that territory — you have a challenge on your hands. Aren Bazerkanian seems to be on the right path. His brand is already discovering a style of its own, and the Havid Nagan Classic One offers something different once more.
The Havid Nagan Classic One comes in ivory and ebony versions and costs US$9,000.
What do you think of the Classic One? Let us know in the comments section below!
