Every year, in the months before Watches and Wonders, we receive a lot of press releases and watches up front. That way, we’re well prepared when the fair finally opens its doors. This time, we also asked Hermès whether it would be possible to get a preview of what the brand was working on. However, the maison stayed suspiciously silent. Last year marked the introduction of the all-new Cut. While 2025 was a little less revolutionary, with the return of one of Hermès’s signature complications and a cheeky horse, there’s certainly enough to talk about. Let’s take a look at the new Hermès Arceau and Cut Le Temps Suspendu and the Arceau Rocabar de Rire.

In 2011, Hermès introduced its unique Le Temps Suspendu complication on a 43mm Arceau. That same year, it also won the prize for the Best Men’s Watch at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. It featured a rose gold case and a white guilloché dial, which showcased the hours, minutes, and a retrograde pointer date. With the push of the button at 9 o’clock, the wearer could make the hour and minute hands jump to a time-out position around 12 o’clock, and the pointer date would hide itself. With another push of the button, the hands would jump back to the correct position because the movement was always running. This unique complication perfectly matches Hermès’s belief that “the time we forget is the time we cherish.”

The 2025 Arceau Le Temps Suspendu

The new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu has a 42mm white or rose gold case. Of course, it features the elegant, asymmetric lug designs that the Arceau is so famous for. You can choose between blue, light brown, and burgundy dials, and all feature the same sunburst finish and transparent center. Through that window, you can see the module that’s responsible for the unique movement of the hands when you push that button at 9 o’clock. Meanwhile, the automatic H1837 movement below keeps running so that when you push that button again, the correct time and date will show.

The automatic movement manufactured by Vaucher is visible through the exhibition case back. It has a nice finish with the brand’s “H” motif sprinkled all over the rotor and the bridges. It runs at a frequency of 28,800vph and holds a power reserve of 45 hours. The various dial colors are each paired with a matching alligator or calfskin strap. The white gold versions of the Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu with a Brown Desert or Rouge Sellier dial color cost €38,000, and the rose gold version with a galvanic blue dial costs €33,000.

The all-new 39mm Cut Le Temps Suspendu

In a surprise move, Hermès also introduced the Le Temps Suspendu complication in a new 39mm version of the Cut. Unfortunately, I don’t have any other dimensions yet. However, I was impressed with how well the rose gold case fit my 17cm wrist. Last year’s 36mm time-only version felt good but perhaps a bit petite. This new 39mm size gives the watch the oomph it needs. For the new Le Temps Suspendu version, you can choose between a burgundy or silver dial. This time, the button that “pauses” the time is at 8 o’clock, and there’s no (retrograde) date here. Instead, there’s a hand that runs backward and makes a full circle in 24 seconds. It also keeps running when you pause the hour and minute hands to remind you that the movement is still keeping track of the right time.

Inside the Cut Le Temps Suspendu ticks the H1912 automatic movement. It runs at a frequency of 28,800vph and holds a power reserve of 45 hours. You can choose to get this Cut on either the matching brushed and polished rose gold bracelet or a colorful rubber strap. This sportier model is water resistant to 100 meters. The Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu in rose gold with a silver or red dial costs €28,000 with the rubber strap and €43,000 with the rose gold bracelet. There’s also a version with a diamond-set bezel, which will increase the price by €5,000.

Hermès Arceau Rocabar de Rire head on

The cheeky Arceau Rocabar de Rire

Then, as a fabulous encore, Hermès also introduced the Arceau Rocabar de Rire. The dial design inside the 41mm white or rose gold case gets its inspiration from Dimitri Rybaltchenko’s Rocabar de Rire striped scarf. Introduced in 2023, this scarf is made of a mix of cashmere and silk and is available in different color combinations. On it, there’s a drawing of a beautiful brown horse that sticks its tongue out while looking over its shoulder. To portray the horse on the Arceau’s dial, the dial artist used a combination of very fine engraving, miniature painting, and horse-hair marquetry.

painting the illustration on the Hermès Arceau Rocabar de Rire

The dial itself is already a masterpiece, but the signature feature here is the animation, which can be triggered by pushing the button at 9 o’clock. For this watch, it doesn’t pause the time, but it makes the horse stick its tongue out over and over again. It’s a lighthearted detail that’s very welcome in an industry that often takes itself way too seriously.

Hermès Arceau Rocabar de Rire

You can choose between a blue or green dial with colorful stripes, and both come with a matching alligator strap. Inside ticks the automatic H1837 movement, the same caliber as in the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu. The Hermès Arceau Rocabar de Rire in rose gold with a green dial costs €163,000, and the white gold version with a blue dial costs €168,000. Hermès will only make 12 pieces of this watch, making it quite exclusive indeed.

rose gold and silver opaline Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu on rubber strap, tilted view

Final thoughts

The Le Temps Suspendu complication isn’t new, but its reintroduction comes at a perfect moment. In fragile and uncertain times like these, it’s nice to see that Hermès still tries to make us smile. The same goes for the Rocabar de Rire, which, in the end, doesn’t make a lot of sense but certainly can put a smile on your face. Many people were talking about it at Watches and Wonders. The hand-made dial also perfectly shows what the artists at Hermès are capable of. So, if this watch doesn’t make you smile, it will make your jaw drop in awe of its craftsmanship.

I also like that the bigger 39mm size of the Cut makes it feel like a more grown-up watch. I can’t wait to see what else Hermès has up its sleeve with this sporty yet elegant new addition to its collection.

Let me know in the comments below what you think of Hermès’s novelties from Watches and Wonders 2025.