It’s An Exquisite Millésime Monday Morning With The New HYT T1 Millésime Series
The French word millésime means “vintage” and is most often linked to great wines and champagnes. The new HYT T1 Millésime series offers a vintage-inspired dial matching the contemporary look of HYT’s most understated creation. And just like a millésime wine, the new trio of watches refers to a limited period. The HYT T1 Millésime series in brown, purple, and green will only be available from September 2024 to April 2025.
By introducing the four watches in the T1 Series earlier this year, HYT created a buzz. Sure, maybe it wasn’t as big a buzz as in 2012 when the brand burst onto the scene with the H1, the first wristwatch that used fluids to indicate time. Still, the less-is-more T1 debuted quite unexpectedly. When you’re used to seeing 50mm wrist machines showing everything there is to show, a watch with a closed dial and semi-moderate proportions (for HYT, anyway) can be a surprise. But the T1, a watch with a titanium case, 45.3mm diameter, 17.2mm thickness, and 46.3mm length is every bit an HYT. The fluid indication of the hours on the dial side and the two bellows on the movement side leave no room for doubt; this is a one-of-a-kind hydromechanical wristwatch.
Savoring the three time-limited colors of the HYT T1 Millésime Series
“Millésime” normally refers to a year in which a particular wine or champagne was produced. In the case of the new HYT T1 Millésime series, we’re dealing with three differently colored watches that will only be available from September 2024 to April 2025. While the period is limited, the quantities of the production run are not. Still, despite the unlimited production numbers, rarity is certain. Yes, the T1 is more ergonomic and easier to love and wear than any other HYT before. One could even describe the pricing as “sympathetic.” Nevertheless, a 45.3mm watch with a starting price of CHF 50,000 (excluding taxes) still guarantees exclusivity. In the future, you won’t find any of the three HYT T1 Millésime watches in large numbers at discount prices, just like you won’t find a Krug Millésime 1990 Brut on the shelves of your local supermarket.
The HYT T1 Millésime comes in three time-limited colors. The first two versions — the green-dial reference H03343-A with “T1 46” engraved on the case back and purple-dial reference H03344-A with “T1 47” on the back — have cases made of natural-colored titanium with some black-coated titanium parts. The crown is titanium too.
The chocolate-brown version (reference H03345-A with “T1 48” engraved on the case back) has a 5N (pink) gold and black-coated satin-finished titanium case and a crown in pink gold. The price of the titanium models is the aforementioned CHF 50,000 without taxes. The pink gold version has a price of CHF 66,000 before taxes.
What all great Millésimes have in common
Apart from the different metals of the cases, colors of the brass dials, and hues of liquid displaying the hours (red for the green- and brown-dial versions, black for the purple reference), the three watches have much in common. They all show fluidic retrograde hours, central minutes, and a power reserve hand between 2 and 3 o’clock. All three versions are water resistant to 50 meters and come with two interchangeable straps, each with a titanium buckle. In the box of the T1 Millésime, you’ll find a black strap and one in the color of the dial to boost the watch’s visual impact.
The most important shared feature of any T1 is the fluid indication of time. With the hours indicated by a liquid that moves along the applied Arabic numerals, this remains a special and interesting sight no matter how often you see it. When you take a closer look at the dial of the T1, you will see the high-tech borosilicate glass capillary tube in which the fluid moves. The way it comes out of the dial at 6 o’clock is quite interesting. The appearance of a glass tube with moving liquid inside makes you wonder where it comes from and how it all works.
How it works
Only when you flip the T1 over can you understand how the fluid system works. Still, it does take a bit of time. Just for your consideration, the original idea of showing time with a liquid sprouted from serial inventor Lucien Vouillamoz — a man with 118 applications and 24 patents to his name — in the late 1990s. The wild idea took more than a decade to materialize.
Inside the T1 Millésime beats the hydro-mechanical “powerplant,” caliber 501-CM. It is a 352-part, manual-winding 4Hz movement with a 72-hour power reserve, and it features two small bellows, which look a bit like the pistons of a tiny two-cylinder motorcycle engine. The bellows push the fluid inside the tube to indicate the hours. If one bellow compresses, the other expands, resulting in the fluid moving on the dial side of the watch. The movement also shows delicately sandblasted and brushed surfaces and contrasting coatings.
How the T1 Millésime fits
Nothing has changed regarding the shape and size of the case. Thus, the new T1 Millésime wears just like the original watch. Its angularly shaped case is slightly longer than wide, and the perfectly form-fitting strap “drops” almost vertically from the case. These features make the watch sit very comfortably on the wrist. Even a small wrist can accommodate a T1. A taste for exuberance is essential, though. The first four versions of the T1 had a more toned-down appearance. The new “harvest,” however, causes a much stronger sensation. But that is what you want from a Millésime, right? You want it to be special, bubbling, vibrant, overwhelming, profound, and memorable.
The purple, green, and chocolate dials might not suit everyone’s palate. But since this trio of fluid timepieces will only be in production for a short period, that won’t be a problem. They will find their way to their destined watch equivalents of oenophiles. Let’s hope they’re not going to hide these excellent HYT T1 Millésimes in a cellar. Let’s hope they will bring them out in the open so they can breathe and catch the attention of aficionados who couldn’t afford these watches but can still appreciate them.
My favorite is the T1 Millésime with the floral purple dial. Its hue makes me want to enjoy a glass of fresh and fruity Beaujolais Nouveau that matches the watch’s color scheme. Please tell me your favorite version in the comments below, and check out the HYT website for more info.