Introducing: The Lebond Souto Moura — An Architect’s Take On The Classic Driver’s Watch
Besides my passions for music and watches, I also greatly love architecture. It takes a unique talent and ability to create buildings that seem like they have an actual soul. But what if you combine architecture and watch design? Does that work? The answer came in the spring of last year. The Lebond Siza explored the crossroads of architecture and watch design. The result was a watch that showed that architectural design philosophy can indeed cross that border. Now Lebond is back with its second release. The Lebond Souto Moura takes a different approach to design. The watch is an architect’s take on the classic driver’s watch. The results are once again remarkable and intriguing.
As I explained last year, treating a watch as a design object is tricky. A mechanical watch is an ultra-functional object that must be practical and comfortable first and foremost. Sure, we also want it to look good, but if that gets in the way of us wanting to wear the watch daily, it defeats the purpose. With last year’s Siza, Lebond proved that remarkable design does not have to negatively impact wearability. A hands-on experience proved that the Lebond Siza was indeed very easy to wear. It showed that Lebond’s founder Asier Mateo understood the challenges of perfectly bringing together the aesthetic of architecture and the practicality of a modern wristwatch. Now it’s time for the second Lebond release.
The story of the Lebond Souto Moura
Whereas last year’s Lebond Siza took inspiration from one of Álvaro Siza’s famous architectural creations, this release is slightly different. The new Lebond Souto Moura was designed by the famous Portuguese architect Eduardo Souto de Moura. He is renowned the world over and won the prestigious Pritzker Architecture Prize in 2011.
His design style uses clean lines, resulting in minimalist creations that feel very serene. But instead of using one of his previous works to inspire the piece, he used his signature style to reimagine the classic driver’s watch.
The idea is simple, and the execution looks simple too. That said, one must have a perfect feel for adding elements or leaving them out to create the perfect balance in a minimalist design. In the watch world, where the traditional approach is often driven by decoration, that is a different design philosophy. Souto de Moura’s idea behind this watch was that “the 12 is the reference, and we rotate [everything] 30 degrees for optimal visibility on the wrist.” So he started designing a round watch and turned all the elements 30 degrees clockwise. The dial, the movement, and the crown were all placed at the same 30-degree angle.
Discovering the design of the Lebond Souto Moura
The principles of a driver’s watch and the round shape are familiar. But by adding clean lines to the dial, that’s where Souto de Moura added his design signature. Look at the dial, and you will see it has the “12” as the reference point, but Souto Moura mixed an Arabic numeral with a large hour marker to form the number.
Shorter but substantial markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock accompany the large “12” index. The five-minute markers are even smaller, and lastly, completing the design are the remaining minute markers in the shape of dots. The dial is combined with black stick hands that match perfectly.
The dial also features a date window. Though some enthusiasts may bemoan this, Souto de Moura understood that practicality must go hand in hand with aesthetics. On top of that, it gives the wearer an extra purpose to use the watch besides reading the time. And every time you return to the design, you are reminded of the minimalist design placed at an angle of 30 degrees. But if you have ever worn a driver’s watch, you will know it does not take long to get used to the tilted display of the time and date.
The specs
Moving beyond the dial of the Lebond Souto Moura, we find a 38.5mm Grade 5 titanium case with a micro-sanded finish and an anti-fingerprint coating. The case is only 7.6mm thick and has a modest length of 38.5mm. The reason is that there are no real lugs, and the 18mm strap attaches to the underside of the case.
Souto de Moura’s wish was to create a watch that was as slim as possible, and he and Lebond’s founder Mateo succeeded in doing just that. As a result of the use of titanium and the modest size, the watch weighs only 46 grams. A nice detail is the domed sapphire crystal, which adds a touch of drama to the minimalist design.
Inside the case, Lebond uses the ETA 2892-A2 caliber. This 21-jewel automatic movement operates at a 28,800vph frequency and offers a 50-hour power reserve. The movement is visible through the sapphire crystal of the display case back. It allows you to see the movement in action and enjoy a view of the blued screws, Geneva stripes, and perlage. Additionally, the case back features Eduardo Souto de Moura’s autograph. Lastly, each case is individually numbered.
Two available models in gray and beige
The Lebond Souto Moura is available in two different versions. The first is the Original Edition, which features a matte beige dial paired with a navy-blue Top Nappa leather strap. The second is the Dark Edition with a matte gray dial and a black Top Nappa leather strap. Both straps come with a Grade 5 titanium folding clasp. While I love both Souto Moura models, the beige-dial version is my favorite from the pictures. I love the contrasting colors that make all the design elements stand out.
Both versions will be available for €2,700 (excluding taxes). That is the same price that the Lebond Siza sells for, so it is nice to see that the price has not gone up. I realize that it is a substantial amount of money for a watch that is an acquired taste. But Asier Mateo is not looking to create watches for the masses. He is building his brand for people who love to have something distinct. I’d say that a watch honoring the design of a classic driver’s watch as seen through the eyes of a famous architect fits that bill.
Final thoughts on the Lebond Souto Moura
Once again, the result is a watch that I love. Knowing how expertly executed and comfortable the Lebond Siza was, I expect the brand’s second model to offer a similar experience. As I said, this is not a watch for everyone. But if you are passionate about design and architecture, this watch will tell a great story.
Whether you love the work of Eduardo Souto de Moura or you love a cleverly designed reinterpretation of a classic driver’s watch, this is a fun and intriguing sophomore release from Lebond.
With the Souto Moura, Asier Mateo shows that in today’s watch landscape, there is a purpose for a rookie brand like Lebond. These days, it’s becoming increasingly more difficult to get swept away by one watch in the non-stop stream of more conventional releases. A watch like this one, however, allows you to stand still and be challenged by a different brand and approach.
And that side of Lebond is what makes these collaborative efforts so much fun. As a result, I can’t wait to see where it leads us with every release. For now, this Lebond Souto Moura does a great job of telling a new story about a classic watch. Whoever said that successfully melding a watch and a design object was impossible? For the second time, Lebond gloriously proves that it isn’t, and I love that.
For more information, visit the official Lebond website. All pictures in this article are by architecture photographer Fernando Guerra.
