Introducing: The Muscular New Oris Aquis Chronograph
The Oris Aquis is one of the brand’s most successful watches. Its modern and muscular looks are a hit. No wonder the people in Hölstein put a lot of effort into bringing out new versions every so often. This April, a new version of the Oris Aquis Date was presented with updates regarding ergonomics, aesthetics, and performance. Now it’s time to give the Aquis Chronograph that very same treatment. Spoiler alert: no, this new Aquis Chronograph is not powered by Oris’s Calibre 400 but by a modified Sellita SW510 automatic chronograph movement.
The previous version of the Oris Aquis Chronograph housed the ETA/Valjoux 7750. In the meantime, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five got fitted with the Oris 771, which is, in principle, a modified Sellita SW510 automatic chronograph movement. This same Sellita movement now also powers the new Oris Aquis Chronograph. In addition, Oris’s muscular diver has a nice blue gradient dial to introduce the new sub-dial layout. Let’s take a look.
The new Oris Aquis Chronograph
Because of its ETA/Valjoux movement, the older Oris Aquis Chronograph used to have sub-dials at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock. Now with the Oris 771 movement underneath the hood, the sub-dials are at the more conventional positions of 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. The one at 3 is a 30-minute chrono counter, the one at 6 counts up to 12 hours, and the one at 9 shows the running seconds. All three are decorated with an azurage pattern in the middle.
Like the time-only model, the Chronograph features the Aquis name on the dial. It’s printed within the aforementioned 12-hour counter. The date window is also there, but this time, it cuts into the sub-dial. The rest of the gradient blue sunburst dial is clean with minimal printing and very uniform applied indexes at the hours. These faceted indexes feature a filling of Super-LumiNova, just like the hands. The unidirectional bezel’s insert is made of polished ceramic. Its dark blue color perfectly matches the dark blue edge of the dial.
Muscularity befitting an Aquis
The stainless steel case of the Oris Aquis Chronograph has a 43.5mm diameter and a 51mm lug-to-lug. Those are precisely the same measurements as the case of the updated Aquis Date. However, at 16.2mm thick, it’s a little over 3mm chunkier than its time-only brother. I wouldn’t worry about it, though, because, as always, the Aquis still fits very well on the wrist. That’s mainly because of its short and wide lugs. These help it feel very compact and not look very big.
The elegantly tapering bracelet also improves comfort. It has a three-row design with the center link brushed and the outer ones polished. It also features a push-button deployant clasp with toolless fine adjustment and a diver’s extension. However, if you’d like to switch it out for a rubber strap, you will need a proprietary tool.
The case has a primarily brushed finish with some polished sections on the lugs and beefy crown guards on the right side of the case. Between the latter is the screw-down crown, and at the ends, there are pushers to start, stop, and reset the chronograph. The brushed finish continues on the underside of the case, where you’ll also find a sapphire crystal. Through it, you can take a look at the Oris 771 movement — indeed, that modified Sellita SW510. It bears a signature red Oris rotor, runs at a frequency of 28,800vph, and has 27 jewels. It doesn’t have the extended 120-hour power reserve of the in-house Calibre 400, but 62 hours is still more than sufficient. The whole construction is water resistant to 300 meters, just like the Aquis Date.
A nice comeback
This new Oris Aquis Chronograph has some similarities to the 2019 Blue Whale Limited Edition. However, that was a 45.5mm beast with a busier dial and bulkier case. After five years, I’m glad Oris returned with a smaller and cleaner-looking version of its Aquis Chronograph. The beautiful blue sunburst dial looks exactly like the Sun’s rays are hitting the surface of the sea. Importantly, the gradient effect is very evenly done and doesn’t look like the fumé effect on many similarly styled watches.
Yes, the Aquis Chronograph is quite thick, but I don’t think that’s something Aquis fans are worried about. The muscular design attracts them to this watch, and I don’t think a few millimeters will change that. Besides, if you’re looking for an automatic dive watch with a chronograph function, there won’t be many options out there with a slimmer profile, especially not at this price point.
Available now
The new Oris Aquis Chronograph is available now for CHF 4,400. It comes on the stainless steel bracelet, but you can always order an additional strap from Oris’s online strap shop or in the boutique, of course. For more information on the Oris Aquis Chronograph, visit the official Oris website.
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