Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575
Complicated watches are not the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Panerai. Having said that, the Italian-born Swiss brand has shown us over the years that it can integrate brilliant technical wizardry into its iconic models. Two great examples are the current Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT in Goldtech and Platinumtech. Both seem almost deceivingly simple in their appearance. However, the brand cleverly integrated a perpetual calendar and a GMT function into the timepieces by using the front and the back. With the new Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT PAM01575, Panerai unveils some technical mastery by adding a blue sapphire dial. Let’s find out more!
I usually gravitate toward the time-only models when it comes to Panerai. Sometimes, you can find a date on some of my favorites, but preferably not. The design of the standard versions of the brand’s Luminor and Radiomir is so powerful that it doesn’t need any additional elements that might clutter the iconic aesthetic. Over the years, however, Panerai has extended its collection to include a wide variety of technically impressive models. Some of them transform into modern beasts of the deep, while others maintain the traditional Panerai feel. One of the latter is the Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT. At first glance, the watch looks relatively straightforward, with a day/date display, a GMT hand, and what seems to be a small-second display. But the story of this specific model is not so simple.
The story of the Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575
Until yesterday, Panerai had two Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT models in its current collection. The first one combines the brand’s proprietary Goldtech material with a dark blue dial and strap. The second uses Panerai’s Platinumtech alloy for the case and combines it with a dark green dial and a brown leather strap. As a result of the classic aesthetic, the two models look fairly straightforward. For the new PAM01575, the brand decided to stir things up a bit. This new addition to the lineup features a Platinumtech case and a blue sapphire dial. The latter dramatically changes the overall aesthetic. This is not a completely new look, though. If you are a long-time reader of Fratello, you’ll know that Panerai created a similar 33-piece limited edition in Goldtech three years ago.
This design solution gives the watch a very different overall feel. Granted, the sapphire dial only reveals the day and date wheels, but it immediately draws you in. That’s when you quickly find out that the small seconds display also features an AM/PM indicator. From there, it’s easy to understand that there is more going on. If you turn the watch around, that’s when you’ll see the different features of the perpetual calendar integrated into the movement. In my opinion, this new PAM01575 is the most interesting of the four Perpetual Calendar GMT models so far. It just looks awesome.
The details of the Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575
Let’s look at some specs to get a better idea of the watch. The new PAM01575 features a 44mm Platinumtech case that is water resistant to 50 meters. Just as a reminder, Platinumtech is a proprietary Panerai alloy that uses 95% pure platinum. However, a special treatment makes the case more scratch-resistant than the regular 950 platinum other brands use. As we know from all the Luminor models, on the left side of the case, you will find the characteristic crown guard. It protects the crown that ingeniously operates the perpetual calendar movement.
As mentioned, the case is combined with a blue sapphire crystal dial that gives a glimpse of the day and date wheels. Placed on top of the sapphire dial are applied hour markers filled with white Super-LumiNova. Additionally, you will see the day and date displayed at 3 o’clock with a frame around each. Lastly, there is a small seconds display at 9 o’clock, which also serves as a 24-hour GMT sub-dial with an AM/PM indicator. This works in conjunction with the short blue central GMT hand that displays the second time zone. Accompanying the 12-hour GMT hand is a set of larger pencil-style hands that indicate the hours and minutes. All five hands here are filled with white Super-LumiNova, keeping the watch legible in darker conditions.
The ingenious Panerai micro-rotor P.4100 caliber
If you then turn the watch around, you will get a good view of the P.4100 movement that powers it. Additionally, that is where we find the indicators for the day, month, year, leap-year cycle, and power reserve. They are accompanied by the pink gold micro-rotor that sits off-center to make room for the different displays of the perpetual calendar. The automatic caliber P.4100 comprises 429 parts, operates at 28,800vph, has 55 jewels, and offers a three-day power reserve thanks to its double barrels.
Importantly, the case sides do not feature the regular calendar correctors on the left and right sides. Instead, the wearer can turn the crown clockwise and counterclockwise to correct all the different functions without any restrictions. This adds tremendous practicality to the movement, ensuring no external tools are necessary to adjust any of the displays. Additionally, the movement features a patented shock-protection system to stabilize the date disk. All these features mean that you can wear this Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT without having to worry about the impact of daily use.
Final thoughts on the Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575
The new Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 comes on a dark blue alligator strap with a white gold buckle. The strap gets a vintage handmade patina finish for an even more outspoken look. All in all, I like this new PAM01575 a lot. I think it is the best of the four Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT models we’ve seen. Panerai will produce the PAM01575 in limited quantities annually, but with no specific limit indicated, the watch is indeed a regular addition to the catalog. It has a retail price of €78,000.
Overall, this new Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 is a welcome addition to the lineup. It brings another more modern and technical reference to the collection while keeping a fairly straightforward approach to a highly complicated watch. This ensures it does not drift too far from the quintessential Panerai designs, making it quite compelling indeed.
