Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection

Let the record show that this introduction to the Patek Philippe Cubitus collection was written a day after the official release. That’s important because these watches elicited strong emotions upon their debut and beforehand during online leaks. Therefore, I’ve let these watches sink in a bit before reacting. I’ll run down the specs and share brief thoughts before we return with a more extensive hands-on review.

The announcement of a new collection from Patek Philippe is a big deal because it happens so infrequently. In fact, 1999 was the last time with the Twenty~4 collection. Earlier this week, photos emerged on social media showing a squarish take on Nautilus, and people got excited. However, the excitement wasn’t necessarily positive. The Cubitus, the name of the models in the leaked images, was dismissed by some as AI wizardry. Others picked apart the phrasing in the ads, stating that it was inconsistent with Patek’s normal motto. Well, like it or not, the Cubitus references we saw in these photos are the real deal.

The Patek Philippe Cubitus collection

Patek Philippe has launched three models to announce the new Cubitus collection. Two are straightforward three-hand date pieces, and the third contains a new movement and complication. All of them fit within the popular “sports dress watch” genre. The resemblance to the famed Nautilus exists in spades, but Patek does not refer to the Genta-designed watch in the press literature. The locking screws on the sides of the case, the horizontally embossed dial, the case finishing, and the bracelet are all in kissing-cousin territory with the Nautilus.

Shared specifications

All three models share similar case dimensions. The watches measure 44.5mm by 44.9mm with a diagonal length of 45mm. Each also features a screw-down crown despite a water resistance rating of just 30 meters. Super-LumiNova is prominent on the hands and indices.

The Stainless Steel and Steel & Gold Cubitus models

The most elemental versions of the new Cubitus collection come in all stainless steel or a mixture of 18K rose gold and stainless steel. For now, only one dial color is offered in each case material. The stainless model receives a dark green embossed dial, and the two-tone variant comes with dark blue. Both models feature polished hands and indices. Patek uses 18K gold for the hands and indices on the steel and gold model.

Both time-and-date models are just 8.3mm thick, which includes the flush-mounted sapphire crystal. They also come solely on a bracelet with polished center links, a micro-adjustment mechanism, and a push-button folding clasp.

The case design reveals an interesting construction. It’s not a traditional monoblock nor does it have a screw-in case back. Instead, two screws on each case side fasten the case. In the steel and gold version, it’s easier to see the various components that come together. Frankly, I’m impressed with the technical nature of it. The slender case profile is also delightful and pays gentle tribute to past favorites, like the Calatrava with the downward-tilted and barrel-ended lugs. Inside, Patek uses the familiar automatic caliber 26-330 S C with a 21K gold rotor. This movement has a frequency of 28,800vph and a power reserve of 45 hours. Patek notes the horizontal embossing on the rotor as a continuance of the dial design.

Intriguing looks

If one reads the current groupthink about the Cubitus models, it’s not overwhelmingly positive. It’s also why I decided to take a day to think about these before putting pen to paper. Objectively, and from what I’ve read, the watches are beautifully built and contain fantastic finishing. They’re slender on the wrist, the mix of brushed and polished surfaces play well in the light, and the bracelets are lovely. That said, the watches look big. They’re not to the level of being a cuff like an Octo Finissimo, but they’re not far off either. I think the design would work better if sized down by 3–4mm.  As it stands, they lack elegance. As for the dial design, it’s fine. The angled indices are a modern take on some of my favorite ’30s and ’40s tank-style watches, and they work with the rounded square bezel design.

Pricing for the stainless model is set at €40,575, and the steel and gold model is €60,257. That’s not surprising considering the brand, and I doubt that interested parties are overly sensitive about price.

The Cubitus Grand Date

The Cubitus Grand Date announces a new movement for Patek Philippe with a strong technical backbone. The watch comes in a 950 platinum case with a dark blue dial. The dimensions are similar to the three-hand date models, but this watch is slightly thicker at 9.6mm. It comes exclusively on a navy blue synthetic strap with a push-button platinum folding clasp.

Functionally, the Cubitus Grand Date shows the time, small seconds, moon phase, day, and date. The date uses twin discs in what appears as a very different type of display for Patek. The movement behind these complications is the 240 PS CI J LU, an automatic caliber with a 22K gold micro-rotor. This 52-jewel movement has a frequency of 21,600vph and a power reserve of 48 hours. However, what makes the movement special is the ability to equally transfer power to all the displays and execute a change in just 18 milliseconds.

Correctors on both sides of the case allow for the instantaneous setting of the various complications at any time of day without harming the movement. Another technical achievement of this movement is the ability to center both date wheels precisely in each window.

Interestingly, the Grand Date has garnered more vitriol than its simpler siblings. The dial design seems incongruous, and the lower displays are not centered. The date also looks “fine” to me but no better. That said, I’ve never met a complicated Nautilus that I like. To me, sporty dress watches, including the Cubitus, look best in the simplest form. Anything else reminds me of a pretty car festooned with spoilers, ground effects, and other add-ons. The technical chops may be there, but the watches lack elegance. Still, if a complicated Cubitus is of interest, prepare to pay €86,908.

Final thoughts on the Cubitus collection

In the days leading up to the Cubitus launch, I was tough on Patek Philippe. My view has softened slightly, but I still find that the watches lack elegance and could be smaller. The Grand Date, in particular, brings a technical powerhouse under the hood but isn’t pretty. Then again, maybe that’s not the point of this collection and I’m the wrong audience. Still, after 25 years without a new collection, a bit of love at first sight would have been nice. Maybe the attraction will simply take longer. For more information on the Cubitus collection, visit the official Patek Philippe website.