Introducing: The Spectacular Ressence Type 5 L — A Full-Lume-Dial Version Of This Stylish Dive Watch
I love Ressence, and I love classic night divers, so when I read that the Belgian brand would release a version of its Type 5 dive watch with a full-lume dial, I was all eyes and ears. But I was also curious to discover how Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens would make that work. My initial thought was that he’d take the existing Black Black version of the Type 5 and equip it with a white luminous dial. Doing so would create a version with the traditional look of a night diver. But we are talking about Ressence here. “Traditional” is not part of the brand’s vocabulary. Instead, we are treated to a beautiful gray version of the watch. The result is another striking timepiece that proves that Ressence can surprise us time and again.
As a design enthusiast, I love the niche in the watch industry that Benoît Mintiens has created for himself. The combination of Ressence’s minimalist style and technical innovation is unique. With every release, Mintiens and his team show an incredible eye for detail and an original approach to extending the collections. Even if it’s through new versions of existing models, there is always an element of surprise. It can be as simple as picking an uncommon color that immediately stands out. With the new Ressence Type 5 L, we get more proof of this impactful approach. The watch is a play on the Type 5 dive watch that debuted nearly nine years ago.
The story of the Ressence Type 5 L
In 2015, the Type 5 was the next step for Ressence’s oil-filled Type 3. The white version of the Type 3 is still my favorite watch the brand has created. I adore the pebble-like case that is filled with oil to ensure that no reflections ever hinder reading the time. But the Type 5 was an evolution that used the same principle of an oil-filled case for underwater diving.
Over time, we have seen different versions of the Type 5, including the Type 5 AIT that Dave wrote about in 2022. But the currently available regular models are the Night Blue and Black Black versions. With the new Type 5 L, Ressence adds a third model to the current lineup, featuring a largely gray aesthetic and a full-lume dial as the surprising cherry on top.
So, let’s jump into some details of the watch. It presents itself in a round 46mm Grade 5 titanium case measuring 15.5mm thick. The case construction consists of two separate and sealed chambers, with the upper one filled with 3.57 milliliters of oil. The case also has a double-domed sapphire crystal with an antireflective coating on the top and bottom.
As the Type 5 L is a dive watch, the case features a unidirectionally rotating 60-minute dive bezel with full markings for the first 15 minutes. Despite the seemingly smooth look of the bezel, the protrusions make it easy to grip and rotate. The Type 5 L meets the ISO 6425 standard with a 100m depth rating, and it passed tests for antimagnetism and shock resilience without any problems.
The special dial of the Type 5 L
The typically Ressence-style dial is executed in Grade 5 titanium and features three eccentric biaxial satellites. The dial shows the hours and minutes along with a 90-second “runner,” as the brand calls it. Interestingly, this runner serves as a shock protector for the movement. The movement uses a magnet transmission rather than a mechanical transmission to drive the discs on the ROCS (Ressence Orbital Convex System) dial.
Under the 90-second sub-dial are eight small blades that serve as a hydraulic brake to keep all the magnetically linked discs in place in case of a shock. Lastly, the dial has a gauge to display the temperature of the oil inside.
The dial features a mix of darker titanium gray, light gray Super-LumiNova, and yellow and blue for some hints of color. Yellow is used for the markers at 15, 30, 45, and 60 minutes as well as the lume pip on the bezel. Additionally, yellow and blue indicate when the oil is extremely hot or cold, respectively.
During the day, the dial has a mostly monochromatic look that I love, especially with the watch’s gray fabric strap. This strap features a yellow leather lining to match the yellow accents on the dial. Additionally, each buyer will get a blue rubber strap. As I stated, the watch is far from your traditional full-lume dive watch, and I love that.
The ROCS 5 module that powers the watch
As mentioned, the upper chamber of the case is filled with oil so the user is not inconvenienced by “Total Internal Reflection.” As a result, the dial is legible from many different angles. This is a great feature that we also know from several Sinn dive watches. The lower chamber features the ROCS 5 module that is based on a heavily customized ETA 2824-2 caliber. The self-winding movement operates at 28,800vph and offers 36 hours of power reserve.
As you probably know by now, Ressence watches do not feature a traditional crown. Rather, the wearer can wind the watch and set the time by turning the case back. The specially developed case back of the Type 5 features the Ressence Compression Lock System (RCLS). As Dave explained in his article on the Type 5 AIT, this mechanism closes the gasket that seals the lower air chamber when the “crown” is pushed back into its resting position. As a result, it waterproofs the watch and allows the wearer to take it diving.
Final thoughts on the Ressence Type 5 L
By now, it doesn’t surprise me that I adore this new Ressence Type 5 L. As a fan of the brand, I find it hard to fault the steps Benoît Mintiens takes with every new release. That is not the result of blind admiration but a firm belief that every step is right. Over time, the Ressence team has shown that every release results from deliberate decisions based on knowing what to look for as a brand. I greatly admire that, and it’s why the brand has found a dedicated following of fans.
The new Type 5 L will be available immediately for CHF 34,500 before taxes. This full-lume version of the watch is more expensive than the Black Black and the Night Blue editions, which both have a pre-tax price of CHF 30,800. However, for the extra money, you will get the most visually striking version of the Type 5.
The Type 5 “Luminescent” is a stunning take on a classic night diver. It’s easy to predict that not many will actually see the depths of the ocean at night time. But I’m sure that plenty of new owners will gladly activate the lume in the dark to witness the hidden magic of this brilliant new Ressence Type 5 L.
For more information, visit the official Ressence website. Let us know in the comments section what your thoughts are on this new Ressence dive watch.
